went to the track and my suspension is all out of wack the car left sideways every time. just looked tonight and the rear on my car is off center probly an inch and a half. the tire is flush with the fender lip on one side and tucked in on the other. just ordered the umi single adjustable kit will that panhard bar put my rear where it needs to be? and how do you adjust it?

 

Any adjustable panhard rod will be able to center your rear, so you'll be good to go there.

Here is what I do (and there are many ways to skin this cat, so take this method with a grain of salt):

I put the car on ramps front and rear so the entire vehicle is off the ground, but all four tires are loaded. This just makes it easier to crawl under the car and adjust things for me, and it makes sure the suspension is seeing the same loads that it would if it were on the ground. Adjusting the panhard rod while the rear end is under full droop would be a fruitless effort...

I grab some 2" wide masking tape, two pieces of string, and 2 plumb bobs. All of these things are readily available at Sears if you don't have them...

The strings get taped to the fenders with the plumb bobs hanging from the ends, and so the bob is centered front to rear on the wheel/axle as well as somewhat centered on the axle up and down. I do my best to make sure they look the same on both sides.

I pop off my center caps on the rear wheels since they are easily removed, and I measure from the center of the axle on each side to the plumb bob with a tape measure. Just keep going back and forth and adjust until you get the rear centered. If you opted for the on-car adjustable piece, it'll be a snap...all you'll have to do is loosen two jam nuts and turn the adjuster whichever way you need to go. If you didn't get the on-car adjusable piece, you'll have to keep taking the rod end side of the panhard rod off to screw it in and out, and then put the bolt back through it and remeasure at the plumb bobs.

Once it is adjusted though, you should be good to go unless you change the rear ride height, at which point you'll be repeating this exercise.

 

U need to go to an alignment shop, and have a good technician adjust your thrust angle, on the alignment machine it will show- up as non-adjustable, but if they adjust the pan hard bar like a tie rod it will go with-in specs!!!!!!!
If they say it can't be done they don't deserve to be a TECH!!!!!!!! I do these all the time at work.

 

With the way thrust angle works, wouldn't you also need adjustment of the lower control arms to truly get it in line? Or is it close enough with non-adjustable LCAs?

 

This is what i have done to tons of f-bodys with no problems. Jack you car up and put it on jack stand on the frame. Then lower the rear end of the car all the way down and look at the amount of space between the wheel/tire and the bump stop. That's where i set them at. On mine one side was damn near touching and the other side i could stick my thumb in the gap so i adjusted it until it was about even then jacked up the rear and checked it again and it looked good. Like i said i have done this many many times and all the cars leave the line straight.
Another thing we used to do when we would build a race car is get some masking tape and get some string with a weight at the end and hang it from the 1/4 panel and measure each side and try to even it up.

 

ok i ordered adjustable lcas and an adjustable panhard so i should be able to get it where it needs to be right?

 

Yep, both those will adjust the rear to where it needs to be.

 

alright sounds good. also order lca relocation brackets (weld in) they are self explanitory for install right?

 

Yes...as long as you have a welder or know someone you can trust. Should be very simple for anyone to do though...

 

buddy of mine is an awesome welder, hes the one that made my duals and roll cage i think he should be able to do it,

 

You may need a bigger sway bar to correct the leaving sideway issue.

 

We have a new ARB setup that completely takes care of the leaving sideways issue in case its still an issue after you install the adj. phb.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-products-showcase/825662-trz-3rd-4th-gen-chassis-style-arb.html

This thread shows it. Check it out, may be something you'd be interested in.

 

What's the cost on that? Pics of the welding required? Thank you.

 

Great Info, and haha at "Skinning this cat"

 

Meent, Love your discription of your 07 Tacoma. Good stuff