Torque Arm question
Torque Arm question I have the stock Torque arm on my car. I recently did a clutch swap and ended up stripping out the bolt that holds the torque arm to the back of the M6 transmission. Should i get this fixed, by getting the old hole re threaded ? or should i upgrade the torque arm ? Whats the best way i should go about resolving this issue, as of right now my car is down due to this because the tranmission is hitting against the body of the car while im driving.
Thanks
Thanks
Your TA shouldn't be holding it from hitting stuff... You have tranny mounts and those should be holding the tranny.. It's mounted to the engine and has the driveshaft to the rear end which would help I suppose, but the torque arms purpose is to help plant the power, not hold the tranny..
I went with a tunnel mount TA and it's been doing just fine, minus some ground clearance smacks here and there..
I went with a tunnel mount TA and it's been doing just fine, minus some ground clearance smacks here and there..
Your TA shouldn't be holding it from hitting stuff... You have tranny mounts and those should be holding the tranny.. It's mounted to the engine and has the driveshaft to the rear end which would help I suppose, but the torque arms purpose is to help plant the power, not hold the tranny..
I went with a tunnel mount TA and it's been doing just fine, minus some ground clearance smacks here and there..
I went with a tunnel mount TA and it's been doing just fine, minus some ground clearance smacks here and there..
Can anyone recommend a few i can choose from ?
Will that be all i'll need ? is the TA to bolt right up and have it ready to drive ?
Btw, I have Welded subframe connectors. M6 trans, with the stock rear end.
Last edited by Camaroguy; Mar 3, 2008 at 12:26 PM.
I'm not saying that the new TA will help what you think is your tranny smacking, but a new TA will help with wheel hop and planting the power because it is a lot stronger than the flimsy stock piece... Also, if you don't get the tranny mounted one then it will be shorter in length and give you better planting due to the shorter length.
It bolts to two spots that are reinforced.. You should already have a small cross brace there that you will remove and this is where the new TA will go.
The new TA should just bolt up and be good to go.. I went with the Spohn Adjustable one because my pinion angle was out when I did my motor swap and had some upper speed, highway vibration.. If you go that route then you'll need to set your pinion angle which isn't hard at all and most TA's come with a gauge to do so.
It bolts to two spots that are reinforced.. You should already have a small cross brace there that you will remove and this is where the new TA will go.
The new TA should just bolt up and be good to go.. I went with the Spohn Adjustable one because my pinion angle was out when I did my motor swap and had some upper speed, highway vibration.. If you go that route then you'll need to set your pinion angle which isn't hard at all and most TA's come with a gauge to do so.
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
The TA will not fix what sounds like a bad trans mount. You need to address that first. I guess I missread your 1st post. I thought the TA was smacking the trans.
As for the TA. What exhaust are you running? This will impact what TA will work for you. I am not a big fan of the TAs that mount where the factory brace is located. We build high HP drag cars and I do not trust a stamped floor pan to hold the mount for the TA. We use a cross tube that ties into the SFC and the floor pan. It does limit your choice of exhaust.
As for the TA. What exhaust are you running? This will impact what TA will work for you. I am not a big fan of the TAs that mount where the factory brace is located. We build high HP drag cars and I do not trust a stamped floor pan to hold the mount for the TA. We use a cross tube that ties into the SFC and the floor pan. It does limit your choice of exhaust.
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The TA will not fix what sounds like a bad trans mount. You need to address that first. I guess I missread your 1st post. I thought the TA was smacking the trans.
As for the TA. What exhaust are you running? This will impact what TA will work for you. I am not a big fan of the TAs that mount where the factory brace is located. We build high HP drag cars and I do not trust a stamped floor pan to hold the mount for the TA. We use a cross tube that ties into the SFC and the floor pan. It does limit your choice of exhaust.
As for the TA. What exhaust are you running? This will impact what TA will work for you. I am not a big fan of the TAs that mount where the factory brace is located. We build high HP drag cars and I do not trust a stamped floor pan to hold the mount for the TA. We use a cross tube that ties into the SFC and the floor pan. It does limit your choice of exhaust.
From what i believe its the TA that smacking the frame of the car and the trans. I swapped my clutch and i stripped out the bolt that holds the stock TA to the back of the trans. Now the TA is just up where it should go but not mounted to the trans as the one bolt that holds the TA in place is stripped. When i drive the car around i hear it hitting around.
I need this issue resolved. Not sure if i should just get the stock hole re treaded or upgrade the whole TA. I have a stock rear and a stock TA.
My exhaust is Pacesetter Long Tubes with an ORY. Cat back is all stock, with a cutout.
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
What future mods do you plan for the car? Not trying to avoid the question, but at your current HP level the factory TA is fine. If you don't plan to upgrade HP, fix the hole and be happy.
If you do plan to upgrade HP in the future, now may be a good time to look at a new TA.
All comes down to cash flow. I or any of the other suspension vendors can sell you a TA that will "fix" the stripped hole issue. But do you need it? I'm just trying to point you in the best direction for you, not me.
If you do plan to upgrade HP in the future, now may be a good time to look at a new TA.
All comes down to cash flow. I or any of the other suspension vendors can sell you a TA that will "fix" the stripped hole issue. But do you need it? I'm just trying to point you in the best direction for you, not me.