New Rotors/Pads vs. New System
07-30-2003, 05:59 AM
#1
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New Rotors/Pads vs. New System So, I am about this close ->||<- to ordering new rotors through the iROtors group purchase. My question, though , is how much of a difference will this setup, along with some nice aftermarket pads make compared with stock? What types of improvements vs. a new system, (some sort of a lightweight, aluminum rotor, 4 piston calipers, etc...) and how much would one of these new systems set me back?
(Assuming that I only upgraded the front, new rotors will be fine for the back, I think.)
(Assuming that I only upgraded the front, new rotors will be fine for the back, I think.)
07-30-2003, 07:21 AM
#2
Re: New Rotors/Pads vs. New System Which rotors are you looking at using? If you are looking for the pretty, drilled, slotted type for the appearance factor, that's one thing.
If you are looking at slotted/drilled rotors for an increase in performance, save your pennies. A rotor is nothing but a heat sink. A place to gather energy as heat and disperse it. If you take 2 rotors that are the same size and drill one full of holes, you will have two different weight rotors. The more mass a rotor has, the harder it is to heat up. A heavier rotor will take more braking energy to reach 1300 degrees (or whatever the temp your brake pads are rated to work). The holes do nothing for cooling, they were designed to prevent "green fade" when running new pads. The "glue" used to make pads (many years ago...not so much, if at all now) would get hot and produce vapors ("outgassing") and those vapors would get trapped between the pad and rotor and "lift" the pads (think of an air hockey table....same effect) from the rotors. The holes simply gave the gas somewhere to go, which allowed the pads to stay in contact with the rotors (and therefore actually "work"). So, you will find that drilled/slotted rotors will make neat noises when you stop, but they will do little for performance use.
I am running Brembo OEM rotors, $61 each from www.tirerack.com. I am running these with Carbotech's most aggressive full race compound pads (which will wear rotors as fast as the pads wear). The pads are "good" up to 1300 degrees, and I've never had a problem with warping rotors (and I get them HOT!). I had .212 inches of wear on the last set of rotors (nearly 1/4 inch!!!) I removed from the car and they were still perfect (just worn well under the minimum spec), no warps. Rotors are a "wear" item, like brake pads and I can't justify spending $750 on eradispeeds (or any other rotors) for a street/race application (with the exception of carbon rotors for Porsche, or very expensive 14" rotors for actual race cars, etc). I get about 15,000-20,000 miles (street and race) out of a set of pads ($159) and rotors ($122), I don't intend to make it a $600 brake change if I can avoid it. And, I'm sure that I have better brakes with my setup than I would running drilled/slotted rotors and a pad that is "gentle" enough to not wear out the rotors (to save replacing the expensive rotors). But, this is just my opinion (and some facts as well, drilled holes were for green fade, etc).
Good luck!
PS, My stock rear rotors worked great with the Carbotech pads in the rear. And Larry at carbotech (www.carbotecheng.com) got me rear rotors for about $55-$60 (can't remember exactly) each (for decent rotors).
If you are looking at slotted/drilled rotors for an increase in performance, save your pennies. A rotor is nothing but a heat sink. A place to gather energy as heat and disperse it. If you take 2 rotors that are the same size and drill one full of holes, you will have two different weight rotors. The more mass a rotor has, the harder it is to heat up. A heavier rotor will take more braking energy to reach 1300 degrees (or whatever the temp your brake pads are rated to work). The holes do nothing for cooling, they were designed to prevent "green fade" when running new pads. The "glue" used to make pads (many years ago...not so much, if at all now) would get hot and produce vapors ("outgassing") and those vapors would get trapped between the pad and rotor and "lift" the pads (think of an air hockey table....same effect) from the rotors. The holes simply gave the gas somewhere to go, which allowed the pads to stay in contact with the rotors (and therefore actually "work"). So, you will find that drilled/slotted rotors will make neat noises when you stop, but they will do little for performance use.
I am running Brembo OEM rotors, $61 each from www.tirerack.com. I am running these with Carbotech's most aggressive full race compound pads (which will wear rotors as fast as the pads wear). The pads are "good" up to 1300 degrees, and I've never had a problem with warping rotors (and I get them HOT!). I had .212 inches of wear on the last set of rotors (nearly 1/4 inch!!!) I removed from the car and they were still perfect (just worn well under the minimum spec), no warps. Rotors are a "wear" item, like brake pads and I can't justify spending $750 on eradispeeds (or any other rotors) for a street/race application (with the exception of carbon rotors for Porsche, or very expensive 14" rotors for actual race cars, etc). I get about 15,000-20,000 miles (street and race) out of a set of pads ($159) and rotors ($122), I don't intend to make it a $600 brake change if I can avoid it. And, I'm sure that I have better brakes with my setup than I would running drilled/slotted rotors and a pad that is "gentle" enough to not wear out the rotors (to save replacing the expensive rotors). But, this is just my opinion (and some facts as well, drilled holes were for green fade, etc).
Good luck!
PS, My stock rear rotors worked great with the Carbotech pads in the rear. And Larry at carbotech (www.carbotecheng.com) got me rear rotors for about $55-$60 (can't remember exactly) each (for decent rotors).
