Vibrating my teeth at 75+
#21
All very good points.
My car is fairly low, no lower than sportlines though. Also, no I did not check the U joints before or after tightening them down. When the DS was balanced both U joints were replaced and since I have put less than 2k miles on the car since, yet again I assumed that they would be ok. I am doing a lot of assuming here and it's probably where the fault comes into play.
Today I am going to install the steel DS, double check the pinion angle, perhaps take pictures with the indicator on the car just for reference and see how that goes.
Lastly, could a bad pinion seal be a cause of this problem?
My car is fairly low, no lower than sportlines though. Also, no I did not check the U joints before or after tightening them down. When the DS was balanced both U joints were replaced and since I have put less than 2k miles on the car since, yet again I assumed that they would be ok. I am doing a lot of assuming here and it's probably where the fault comes into play.
Today I am going to install the steel DS, double check the pinion angle, perhaps take pictures with the indicator on the car just for reference and see how that goes.
Lastly, could a bad pinion seal be a cause of this problem?
#22
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Bad pinion seal? No. The seal does not rotate. Hence, incapable of producing vibration. It will cause leaks though
Keep us posted!
Last edited by junior28570; 04-28-2008 at 05:08 PM. Reason: poor spelling :(
#25
Sorry about not updating...
I ended up trying to take out the aluminum driveshaft and put in a steel one. Well, as luck would have it, the aluminum one was tough to get out and the steel one, which was only maybe a 1/2" longer, it's a stock DS, wouldn't even go in! For some reason this rearend is sitting a good bit closer to the front of the car then it should be. I'm assuming that the relocation brackets were welded in wrong or something...both wheels sit almost an inch closer to the front of the car then they should. Maybe that's the problem...I dunno...
Hopefully tonight I am going to swap lower control arms with the car that the rearend came out of and maybe that will fix my problem. Also, I have put another set of wheels on the car, a) because I was curious how it looked with 19" HP EVOs (haha) and b) to see if perhaps my wheels were the cause of the problem...
I ended up trying to take out the aluminum driveshaft and put in a steel one. Well, as luck would have it, the aluminum one was tough to get out and the steel one, which was only maybe a 1/2" longer, it's a stock DS, wouldn't even go in! For some reason this rearend is sitting a good bit closer to the front of the car then it should be. I'm assuming that the relocation brackets were welded in wrong or something...both wheels sit almost an inch closer to the front of the car then they should. Maybe that's the problem...I dunno...
Hopefully tonight I am going to swap lower control arms with the car that the rearend came out of and maybe that will fix my problem. Also, I have put another set of wheels on the car, a) because I was curious how it looked with 19" HP EVOs (haha) and b) to see if perhaps my wheels were the cause of the problem...
#27
welp, no difference in lower control arms...guess i'm going to have to break down and buy a set of adjustable ones...i'm broke, anyone got a set for sale? lol
as far as the vibration goes, i'm going to yank the DS tomorrow and take it to the guy whom i took it to before and have him check it and balance it again.
as far as the vibration goes, i'm going to yank the DS tomorrow and take it to the guy whom i took it to before and have him check it and balance it again.
#30
yea me too...sucks now though. I was so used to the 4.10s and the acceleration. The car really feels like a slugg with the 3.42s. On the bright side the trip to Atlanta for G12 will be a little easier on the wallet with a bit better gas mileage.
Does anyone have any opinions on using these gears over again? Should I just buy another diff unit or should I just reassure myself, buy new gears, diff and rebuild kit and do it all over again. This time however I'd rebuild the entire rearend and paint and make it all look show quality...all I did last time was shove it in the car...lol.
Does anyone have any opinions on using these gears over again? Should I just buy another diff unit or should I just reassure myself, buy new gears, diff and rebuild kit and do it all over again. This time however I'd rebuild the entire rearend and paint and make it all look show quality...all I did last time was shove it in the car...lol.
#31
yea me too...sucks now though. I was so used to the 4.10s and the acceleration. The car really feels like a slugg with the 3.42s. On the bright side the trip to Atlanta for G12 will be a little easier on the wallet with a bit better gas mileage.
Does anyone have any opinions on using these gears over again? Should I just buy another diff unit or should I just reassure myself, buy new gears, diff and rebuild kit and do it all over again. This time however I'd rebuild the entire rearend and paint and make it all look show quality...all I did last time was shove it in the car...lol.
Does anyone have any opinions on using these gears over again? Should I just buy another diff unit or should I just reassure myself, buy new gears, diff and rebuild kit and do it all over again. This time however I'd rebuild the entire rearend and paint and make it all look show quality...all I did last time was shove it in the car...lol.
#32
I kept the diff cover off of that rearend. So, now all I need to get is a set of 4.10s and a good diff. Anyone know about any good road race diffs? I'm not really a drag strip guy, granted I'll go probably 2-3 times a year just for ****'s and giggles but nothing serious...