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how to prevent nose dives under hard braking

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Old 08-01-2003, 07:47 PM
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Default how to prevent nose dives under hard braking

when i brake real hard to avoid an accident i feel the car nose dives too much. does anyone think if i get bigger/better rear brakes this should help prevent this
thanx

jay
Old 08-01-2003, 10:52 PM
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Default Re: how to prevent nose dives under hard braking

Rear brakes? Nope, more aggressive rear brakes will likley lead to "brake hop" or lots of ABS action during heavy braking.

The front "drops" due to weight transfer forward under braking. You are simply "adding weight" to the front of the car (and taking it from the rear, which is why the rear will come up slightly and the front will "dive"). You can make it less dramatic by slowing the transfer of weight with stiffer shocks, more compression damping in the front and more rebound in the rear. Or (and....) more spring rate. Springs actually support the car and have the responsibility of "holding the car up" and keeping it from bottoming out (they will also help minimize dive). So, shocks, springs and a reduction in ride height (lower it) will be the cures, any one will help, all of them combined will work even better.

Just my thoughts...

Good luck!
Old 08-02-2003, 11:51 AM
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Default Re: how to prevent nose dives under hard braking

thanx trackbird, some times i think you know too much, this section should be called ask "trackbird" instead of handling & braking...

thanx
jay
Old 08-02-2003, 04:06 PM
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Default Re: how to prevent nose dives under hard braking

Thanks Jay,

I've been playing with this stuff for a long time...glad I can help out.

Kevin
Old 08-02-2003, 04:36 PM
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Default Re: how to prevent nose dives under hard braking

I noticed my car dived signicantly less when I put in my Spohn Torque Arm. I also noticed a reduction when I had the stock TA with a poly bushing.
Old 08-04-2003, 02:54 PM
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Default Re: how to prevent nose dives under hard braking

If you really want to go hardcore, you can remove your upper control arms and put shims between the body and upper control arms on the 2 bolts that are furthest from the front of the car. Depending how much you shim, you'll probably need longer bolts. This will increase the anti-dive characteristics of the suspension without a large increase in spring rate. If you map out the suspension and find the vehicles CG, you can draw out the anti-dive line for the front, much like you draw out the anti-squat line for the rear. This way you can find the optimum angle for the upper arm without causing excessive binding. You'll notice that quite a few OEM's use this strategy to keep dive under control. The upper arms' mounts rarely will be parallel to the ground. With anti-dive the front most mount is higher than the rear.



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