Suspention Upgrade Help
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From: Holmes County (thats right Amish Country), OHIO
Suspention Upgrade Help Alright here is the deal... I got some cash and am looking to upgrade some of my suspension parts before I do performance parts. I need to know some things. I would like to get Lower Control Arms (LCAs), Strut Tower Brace (STB), Sway Bars, and a Pan Hard Bar (PHB). Maybe a Torque Arm if the install isn't to difficult.
First off, the LCAs. Is there a brand out there to watch out for or what is suitable? Also what exactly will I gain besides reduced wheel hop?
Next is the STB. Is it worth the money. I like how they look under the hood and I have heard good things and bad things about them. What do you guys think.
Next are Sway Bars. What sizes are you guys running and what are some good makers and sizes to buy?
Now a PHB. How much will I gain from replacing this? Again what makers are out there that are good?
Finally the Torque Arm. I need to know how difficult it is to replace this. Is it just a unbolt the old and insert the new or not?
Also what do I gain by buying adjustable parts versus the non-adjustable? Will I have to realign everything after I do these installs whether I get the adjustable or not? The car is at stock ride height now and will most likely stay like that so I will have room for bigger rims and tires in the future.
Thanks
AR
First off, the LCAs. Is there a brand out there to watch out for or what is suitable? Also what exactly will I gain besides reduced wheel hop?
Next is the STB. Is it worth the money. I like how they look under the hood and I have heard good things and bad things about them. What do you guys think.
Next are Sway Bars. What sizes are you guys running and what are some good makers and sizes to buy?
Now a PHB. How much will I gain from replacing this? Again what makers are out there that are good?
Finally the Torque Arm. I need to know how difficult it is to replace this. Is it just a unbolt the old and insert the new or not?
Also what do I gain by buying adjustable parts versus the non-adjustable? Will I have to realign everything after I do these installs whether I get the adjustable or not? The car is at stock ride height now and will most likely stay like that so I will have room for bigger rims and tires in the future.
Thanks
AR
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From: Holmes County (thats right Amish Country), OHIO
Alright if I can't get help at the above post how about someone just explain to me the advantage and disadvantage or adjustable parts like mentioned above. Also if its a strictly bolt in process and won't have to worry about realigning everything.
We offer all the parts that you will need to upgrade your car. Replacing your lower control arms will give your car better axle control. The factory pieces arm stamped steel with very soft bushings versus dom steel or chrome moly with a very hard bushing. You will also need an adjustable panhard rod to correct the bodies position over the wheels. From the factory the rearend is not centered perfectly and you will be able to correct this issue with the panhard rod. I suggest using an adjustable torque arm when ever you decide to purchase one, you will be able to adjust your pinion angle with this added feature. We offer several styles of strut tower braces and have some of the best sway bars on the market. Here is a link to our 4th gen page and if you have any further questions please contact me. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm
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From: Holmes County (thats right Amish Country), OHIO
I want better handling in turns but I also want the best straight line performance possible. I would be willing to sacrifice some turn capabilities for more traction and drag race performance. Also how do I center the car with the adjustable parts. Is there a certain way to get it perfect. Also what are the gains with the adjustable LCA's. Also is the Torque Arm strictly bolt in or is something else required. Also don't understand the whole pinion angle thing. I would need some help with that.
Ganted I could be way off base but many of the parts you're inquiring about I'm considering as later changes further down the upgrade path if I get to them at all.
PHB, Strut tower brace, LCA, and Torque arms I'm considring as later in the upgrade process to me I see them in the following steps:
Step 1 Springs and Shocks
Step 2 Adjustable pan hard bar (depending on how off center axle is after the spring install) Mine was close enough I may wait on this...
Step 3 Sway bars (I'd have to look at what the sponsors are recommending as sizes)
Step 4 Stut tower brace
Granted what I'm mainly building the car up for is an awesome ride on a few country roads in south eastern OH next time I'm visiting family....
Rt 339 Crooked Tree <-> Beverly
Rt 821
and Rt 530
All these roads have speed limits of 55 with 90+ degree corners twist turns hills etc... (locals joke it's 55 if you can get there) Basically these roads equal a roller coaster track made for your car. I might eventually enjoy taking the car to a driving school where I could get some track time but that aways down the line.
Take it easy
Brewski
PHB, Strut tower brace, LCA, and Torque arms I'm considring as later in the upgrade process to me I see them in the following steps:
Step 1 Springs and Shocks
Step 2 Adjustable pan hard bar (depending on how off center axle is after the spring install) Mine was close enough I may wait on this...
Step 3 Sway bars (I'd have to look at what the sponsors are recommending as sizes)
Step 4 Stut tower brace
Granted what I'm mainly building the car up for is an awesome ride on a few country roads in south eastern OH next time I'm visiting family....
Rt 339 Crooked Tree <-> Beverly
Rt 821
and Rt 530
All these roads have speed limits of 55 with 90+ degree corners twist turns hills etc... (locals joke it's 55 if you can get there) Basically these roads equal a roller coaster track made for your car. I might eventually enjoy taking the car to a driving school where I could get some track time but that aways down the line.
Take it easy
Brewski
Last edited by Brewski; May 6, 2008 at 09:23 PM. Reason: Route 530 from lower salem to lowel (highly recomended)
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Thread Starter
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From: Holmes County (thats right Amish Country), OHIO
I'm from Ohio to so hey! 
Anyhow... I want to do some of these things now because I short on the money to do the Shocks and Springs or performance mods. I might end up doing LCA's, STB, and Sway Bars.
I just want to help out the handling a little bit. BY the way love the screen name!
Anyhow... I want to do some of these things now because I short on the money to do the Shocks and Springs or performance mods. I might end up doing LCA's, STB, and Sway Bars. I just want to help out the handling a little bit. BY the way love the screen name!
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From: St.Charles MO
This is generally speaking, but as far as swaybars go, the bigger the front the less weight transfer to the rear, and the bigger the rear the more stable the car is taking off. But on the flip side, the bigger the rear the more the car is going to oversteer. A 25mm rear bar is going to make the car tail happy in turns, but straiter for launches. A 22mm will obviously make it straiter than the stock 19mm rear bar, and wont be so tail happy in turns (this is assuming you match the front bar, something like 35mm will work).
You can also remove the front swaybar (or just an endlink) when you go dragracing for better weight transfer.
A big issue with our cars is the stock shocks, they suck.
Dragshocks like QA1, Strange etc. etc. will be better for launching because they do the opposite of what shocks are supposed to do, not transfer weight, or atleast so abruptly. With drag shocks the car will be floaty/disconnected, and probably stiff in the rear (too much compression) giving a not-so-good ride, and nervous handling. The other side of the coin is less sacrifices with handling shocks like Konis. These will make your car feel like an olympic gymnast compared to the stock shocks, give lots of feel and feedback of what the car is doing, and give a nice firm, german sports sedan-like ride. Thats because these have lots of rebound control, unlike drag shocks or the stock shocks. You can also turn these down to a lower rebound setting for better launching, while turning up the drag shocks for more rebound will only yeild a stiffer ride, and still have a disconnected, floaty feeling.
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 130
Likes: 2
From: Georgia
im looking tp upgrade my suspension as well and want basically the same goals, awesome straightline, as thats what most races are, but awesome handling as well, for the trip to work lol.but idk what to do first. other than sfc which is apparently a givin. but i gotta put this up top so i can get some answers as well.
BMR has the parts that both of you need. My suggestion is give me a call and we can discuss exactly what you are expecting out of your car. I offer different versions of each part and they will have a different result. It is possible to have a car that can corner well and perform well at the drag strip. Please give me a call and we will get you pointed in the right direction.