Brake ?'s
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 103
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From: St.Charles, MO
Brake ?'s '99 Formula:
1) Removing the front calipers, I noticed the top caliper sliding pins on each of the calipers would not come out of the caliper bracket. Are they ceased in the brackets, or are they suppose to be that way? I can't see how they should be that way, as it won't allow the caliper and bracket to slide in and out on each other, using the pins.
2) I need to bleed my brakes. Haynes suggests bleeding the ABS modulator. WHere is it, and what does it look like?
Thx,
1) Removing the front calipers, I noticed the top caliper sliding pins on each of the calipers would not come out of the caliper bracket. Are they ceased in the brackets, or are they suppose to be that way? I can't see how they should be that way, as it won't allow the caliper and bracket to slide in and out on each other, using the pins.
2) I need to bleed my brakes. Haynes suggests bleeding the ABS modulator. WHere is it, and what does it look like?
Thx,
Yes, they are seized. I've had this happen on both of my Formulas. My 98 came from St. Louis, my 02 from Frederick, Maryland. If the slide pins are not kept greased, rust can form and lock the pin in. Both times, I used a large screwdriver on the head of the pin to drive it out with a hammer. I then cleaned out the bore and replaced the pin with a new GM part using synthetic caliper grease. Caliper slides like a dream.
As for the modulator, it's the aluminum block between the power steering pump and the driver's side shock tower with 4 brake lines coming out of the top. However, I've read that it's not necessary to bleed it unless you've opened the system up stream of it (ie. replacing the master cylinder. I have bled brakes after installing a line lock before without bleeding the modulator, though. And for what it's worth, I don't believe there are any ports on the modulator to bleed. You have to actuate the internal solenoids and bleed at the calipers. Again, I have never done this, it's just info I've gained through research so take it with a grain of salt.
Hope that helps.
As for the modulator, it's the aluminum block between the power steering pump and the driver's side shock tower with 4 brake lines coming out of the top. However, I've read that it's not necessary to bleed it unless you've opened the system up stream of it (ie. replacing the master cylinder. I have bled brakes after installing a line lock before without bleeding the modulator, though. And for what it's worth, I don't believe there are any ports on the modulator to bleed. You have to actuate the internal solenoids and bleed at the calipers. Again, I have never done this, it's just info I've gained through research so take it with a grain of salt.
Hope that helps.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: St.Charles, MO
Yes, they are seized. I've had this happen on both of my Formulas. My 98 came from St. Louis, my 02 from Frederick, Maryland. If the slide pins are not kept greased, rust can form and lock the pin in. Both times, I used a large screwdriver on the head of the pin to drive it out with a hammer. I then cleaned out the bore and replaced the pin with a new GM part using synthetic caliper grease. Caliper slides like a dream.
As for the modulator, it's the aluminum block between the power steering pump and the driver's side shock tower with 4 brake lines coming out of the top. However, I've read that it's not necessary to bleed it unless you've opened the system up stream of it (ie. replacing the master cylinder. I have bled brakes after installing a line lock before without bleeding the modulator, though. And for what it's worth, I don't believe there are any ports on the modulator to bleed. You have to actuate the internal solenoids and bleed at the calipers. Again, I have never done this, it's just info I've gained through research so take it with a grain of salt.
Hope that helps.
As for the modulator, it's the aluminum block between the power steering pump and the driver's side shock tower with 4 brake lines coming out of the top. However, I've read that it's not necessary to bleed it unless you've opened the system up stream of it (ie. replacing the master cylinder. I have bled brakes after installing a line lock before without bleeding the modulator, though. And for what it's worth, I don't believe there are any ports on the modulator to bleed. You have to actuate the internal solenoids and bleed at the calipers. Again, I have never done this, it's just info I've gained through research so take it with a grain of salt.
Hope that helps.
The pins will NOT come out of our brackets, so we were trying to source some used caliper brackets (such as reman'd. ones, or ones from guys parting out their F-bodies). Time has run out though (need to get the car on the road...it's my son's DD'er), and we're purchasing reman'd calipers (w/brackets) from Advance Auto, just so we can use the brackets from them. We'll then return the reman'd. calipers we just bought (plus our old brackets) as cores, so we won't have to pay the exorbitant core charges.
It boils down to a very poorly designed caliper, with a small and flimsy dust boot that keeps very little or nothing out of the pin "hole" in the bracket. Oddly enough, Dorman offers aftermarket brackets (without having to buy a complete caliper to get it), but only for the rear brakes, not the front !? No one else seems to offer just the brackets for the front.
Last edited by Firehawk#286; May 27, 2008 at 08:20 AM.
I hate to see you spend all that money just for brackets and pins. Have you tried heat? Also, the pins are completely round. You should be able to get a pair of vice grips on them and twist to break them free, then pull them out. You'd still need to replace the pins but it wouldn't be near as expensive as buying the whole assembly. Also, there's an F-body salvage yard here in Alabama called Billy Graham's Camaro and Firebird Salvage if you're looking for used parts. Some parts are outrageously expensive, some are reasonable. Just gotta call and ask. Good luck.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: St.Charles, MO
I hate to see you spend all that money just for brackets and pins. Have you tried heat? Also, the pins are completely round. You should be able to get a pair of vice grips on them and twist to break them free, then pull them out. You'd still need to replace the pins but it wouldn't be near as expensive as buying the whole assembly. Also, there's an F-body salvage yard here in Alabama called Billy Graham's Camaro and Firebird Salvage if you're looking for used parts. Some parts are outrageously expensive, some are reasonable. Just gotta call and ask. Good luck.
