Shocks for Strano's?
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From: Modesto/San Luis Obispo
Shocks for Strano's? So my shocks are in need or replacement and I planned on lowering it a bit too so I'd want to buy the springs and shocks at the same time. When I first started looking around I was going to go with the one of the eibach kits, but after further reviews i want to go with the strano/Koni setup. Only problem is the price, is there a cheaper shock that will work well with the strano springs?
Bilsteins are still on backorder unless I'm behind the curve. Konis are only slightly more expensive than revalves, and they offer a lifetime warranty and they're rebound adjustable. If money is no issue, then Konis are the way to go, and if money is an issue... save a little. They're worth every penny.
edit: KYBs are a budget alternative that people seem to like, but you do get what you pay for.
edit: KYBs are a budget alternative that people seem to like, but you do get what you pay for.
Yea, I just bought the Strano/Koni setup. It was just shy of 1200 dollars with all four springs, shocks, and the panhard bar that is required due to lowering the car. People tell me that its going to be worth it. I guess I will see once it gets done in a few weeks. Sam will tell you that the KYBs are really not sufficient compared to the Konis. I would order now because he just got a new shipment of springs in. He usually does them in batches of 100. He said when he gets them he has to ship 40 or so out (if I am correct) and that the other 60or so sell like hotcakes. Act now or you will be waiting for a few months for your springs.
Last edited by Tuffguy610; Jun 2, 2008 at 08:06 AM. Reason: ..
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From: Stockton, CA
Question for you Koni guys: I'm debating between the 4/4 and 4/3 kit but whats the difference really? Ease of adjustability or is it more than that? In both can the rear shocks be adjusted for compression and rebound or only on the 4/4? And how hard is it to adjust the rear shocks on the 4/3 kit after they're on the car? Do you 4/3 guys basically adjust the rear shocks to the softest setting then leave them alone or what? Any info is appreciated.
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Verdad Gallardo Question for you Koni guys: I'm debating between the 4/4 and 4/3 kit but whats the difference really? Ease of adjustability or is it more than that? In both can the rear shocks be adjusted for compression and rebound or only on the 4/4? And how hard is it to adjust the rear shocks on the 4/3 kit after they're on the car? Do you 4/3 guys basically adjust the rear shocks to the softest setting then leave them alone or what? Any info is appreciated.
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From: Stockton, CA
The only difference is that you need to remove the 3rd gen rears to adjust. It really only takes 15 minutes per side, so it's not that big a deal. But, I've set them to the softest setting and haven't touched them since...and don't really intend to. The SAs are rebound adjustable only.
It's not just the ease of adjustment, but literally where you can get. Yes, both Koni rears adjust rebound damping, and the 4's do it in place vs. off the car. But the other difference is the detent positions. the 3rd gen shock has 4 settings only, you have to in one of them. Full soft, +20, 50, 100% over full soft. The 4th gen shocks have no such detents. You think something is a little soft of stiff, you can make much, much smaller changes. The difference is just like a 4-way light switch vs. a dimmer switch.
Yes, I run 4/3's... I also have run both and there are a few specific to autox reasons I do which are not issues on the street. You get more tuneability and for a lot less hassle on 4/4's... For street use, the use of 4/3's is about saving a few bucks without having to run crappy dampers.
Yes, I run 4/3's... I also have run both and there are a few specific to autox reasons I do which are not issues on the street. You get more tuneability and for a lot less hassle on 4/4's... For street use, the use of 4/3's is about saving a few bucks without having to run crappy dampers.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
I'd disagree they are the last resort.... there are worse ways to go, like QA1's and Stock. 
But the fact they are pretty much number 2 on my list these days ought to tell you what I think of most of the other options overall.
But the fact they are pretty much number 2 on my list these days ought to tell you what I think of most of the other options overall.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
i have had my strano springs and koni 4/4 on my daily driver for about a month now. I have pretty much all the suspension mods out there except k-member and a-arms and the whole rear suspension is rod ended, so it can get a little rattling and bumpy. I have found that setting my rear shocks to full firm then 1/2 turn soft to be the best DD setup to date. the fronts are 4 sweeps from firm. when the rear are on full soft the car doesn't seem planted and is LOUD and sounds like an old pickup truck on a back road the way things rattle and shake
You mentioned stock...I just ordered a set of springs from you last night (they shipped today accoarding to your email!) Anyway, my car is show car and practicaly never driven...in fact I trailer to shows. It may get driven 250 miles a year if that. Since performance and handling is not really an issue at all with me...can I get by with using the stock shocks with your springs??? I plan to upgrade eventually but I just bought a set of 19 CCWs and spent about $3K at the chrome shop....so putting off shocks for a few months would be nice.
You mentioned stock...I just ordered a set of springs from you last night (they shipped today accoarding to your email!) Anyway, my car is show car and practicaly never driven...in fact I trailer to shows. It may get driven 250 miles a year if that. Since performance and handling is not really an issue at all with me...can I get by with using the stock shocks with your springs??? I plan to upgrade eventually but I just bought a set of 19 CCWs and spent about $3K at the chrome shop....so putting off shocks for a few months would be nice.
A lot of non racing people will tell you they don't know jack about suspension, YET they assume that we all ride on super stiff suspension and just jack up our shocks and use super stiff springs. This is not the case. You can have BOTH good ride quality and good handling
Shocks and springs colaborate to work together. A spring needs to compress and return and not bounce around. A softer spring won't ride as firm as a lower stiffer spring. The shocks are used to control the spring oscillation. Too much compression or too much rebound will make the ride quality diminish, and not enough will make the springs bounce several times. You don't want too much or too little for both daily driving AND performance.