Anyone broken a torque arm?
Anyone broken a torque arm? When my car was mostly stock I cured my wheel hop with new LCA's. After adding Headers/Cam it has come back. I also have almost a binding feeling in the rear on anything more than moderate acceleration from a stop.
I have the stock torque arm with poly bushing. I did a clutch swap this spring and the front mount was fine. I should have checked the arm over better than, but I had forgot about it over the winter.
I guess I will pull it back off, scrape off the sludge and look for cracks? I don't want to put an expensive arm on it if thats not the problem, I might not have this car much longer. Just wondering what anyone has seen fail. Thanks.
I have the stock torque arm with poly bushing. I did a clutch swap this spring and the front mount was fine. I should have checked the arm over better than, but I had forgot about it over the winter.
I guess I will pull it back off, scrape off the sludge and look for cracks? I don't want to put an expensive arm on it if thats not the problem, I might not have this car much longer. Just wondering what anyone has seen fail. Thanks.
yes, it's not uncommon for the T/A to break on the side bolted to the rear axle.....check it out, and if it seems like the metal was "ripped", it's time for a new one.
i highly recommend UMI's adjustable T/A, it's what i've got in my car and has been working perfectly for around a year. of course, i've only been daily driving the car, no drag launches or anything....but as beefy as this thing is, it should handle HARD drag launches with no problem.
i highly recommend UMI's adjustable T/A, it's what i've got in my car and has been working perfectly for around a year. of course, i've only been daily driving the car, no drag launches or anything....but as beefy as this thing is, it should handle HARD drag launches with no problem.
Let's see - I broke the stock one (rear mounting locations ripped from the holes outward) years ago. Bought a BMR non-adjustable unit (it is the only one with a tubular front mount). Last year, I sheared the top bolt of the front clamshell mount and sent the bushing for the BMR one bouncing along the track.
Then, in January, I sheared the tailshaft mounting locations off my transmission. Pics:
Then, in January, I sheared the tailshaft mounting locations off my transmission. Pics:
00, That is exactly why we make the torque arm relocation bracket. Sorry to see that happen to you. Did you get everything fixed yet? If you need a relocation bracket let me know.
Oh - that arm stood up to some A-B-U-S-E!!!!!!!! If anyone plans on upgrading the arm, get this bracket.
As for me, I got the arm to help with brake hop. It did help, until I got more aggressive and it started again. I've since gone with a completely different (somewhat custom) setup.
BTW, maybe you can explain this - why would anyone use a flat bar for the mount, instead of the tubular option like y'all have? I can't figure it out.
As for me, I got the arm to help with brake hop. It did help, until I got more aggressive and it started again. I've since gone with a completely different (somewhat custom) setup.
BTW, maybe you can explain this - why would anyone use a flat bar for the mount, instead of the tubular option like y'all have? I can't figure it out.
BTW, I ran and got 2nd place with that broken mount. The only thing holding the TA in place was that one (severely bent!) bolt and the fuel lines (which also got bent). The mount broke during qualifyind, but I thought it was some loose bolts on my LCAs. Fixed those and went out for the main feature race. Car handled badly, but it was good enough to get 2nd.
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Your a lucky man. Congrats on the good finish, but sorry about the busted parts.
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Oh - that arm stood up to some A-B-U-S-E!!!!!!!! If anyone plans on upgrading the arm, get this bracket.
As for me, I got the arm to help with brake hop. It did help, until I got more aggressive and it started again. I've since gone with a completely different (somewhat custom) setup.
BTW, maybe you can explain this - why would anyone use a flat bar for the mount, instead of the tubular option like y'all have? I can't figure it out.
As for me, I got the arm to help with brake hop. It did help, until I got more aggressive and it started again. I've since gone with a completely different (somewhat custom) setup.
BTW, maybe you can explain this - why would anyone use a flat bar for the mount, instead of the tubular option like y'all have? I can't figure it out.
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,498
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From: Corpus Christi
stock arms wont hold up to even stock motor. eventually it will break/crack due to hard launches. if u are planning to sell the car then buy a stock one from the junk yard. dont spend any more $$$$ if u are not going to keep it. on the other hand. UMI !!!!!and get the trans relocation bracket. it'll remove the tq arm end off of the trans end and bolt it to the relocation bracket. it'll prevent u from snapping the trans end off......
Thanks for the replies guys. That is some crazy **** happening. I hope to get it up on stands tonight and see whats up.
00 Trans Ram that is impressive you were able to wheel that car like that, and says a lot for BMR's TQ arm.
Cowboy - That is my dilemma. I had this bad guy for 8 fun years now, just think it is time for a change. We'll see.
00 Trans Ram that is impressive you were able to wheel that car like that, and says a lot for BMR's TQ arm.
Cowboy - That is my dilemma. I had this bad guy for 8 fun years now, just think it is time for a change. We'll see.
I took the sludgy POS off and found the mounting hole on the bottom had cracked. I don't know if that was the problem, I think it's probably just too weak overall, so I am going to look for a new one. I would like to get a tunnel mounted one to get rid of the shitty tunnel brace and not have to deal with the clamshell bushing. Are there any drawbacks besides price? Do they can cause drive line noise or clunking?
Honestly, I'd go with the BMR bar and a remote mounting bracket. As you've heard, I abused the hell out of my bar (heck, I abuse the whole car, and she takes it like a pro!), and it held up wonderfully. In fact, when I took it off, I thought I might have also broken a weld where it attached to the rearend (the weld was black instead of red). But, I washed it off and the entire bar was as good as new (just some dirt).
FYI - I've also got an early-style (straight bar with threaded ends) BMR adjustable PHR with rod-ends. Never had a problem there either. Well, I say no problems - I have sheared mounting bolts in half (5/8" Grade 8 bolts), but the bar is as good as new.
I know that I've seen threads questioning BMR products. But, I'll swear by the stuff on my car. If it can handle what I throw my car through, I'll bet it can handle most anything short of a 600hp professional race car.
FYI - I've also got an early-style (straight bar with threaded ends) BMR adjustable PHR with rod-ends. Never had a problem there either. Well, I say no problems - I have sheared mounting bolts in half (5/8" Grade 8 bolts), but the bar is as good as new.
I know that I've seen threads questioning BMR products. But, I'll swear by the stuff on my car. If it can handle what I throw my car through, I'll bet it can handle most anything short of a 600hp professional race car.
