some_punk

Maybe a dumb question but why is there 2 nut on the top of the 4th gen rear shock?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

You use the top(thinner)nut as a jam-nut.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

You don't just crank the mounting nut to a certain torque or until it's tight. You want to tighten it until the rubber bushings bulge out to the same diameter as the washer. Then use the other nut to hold it in place. Like a jam nut.

The factory shock has a nylon insert to keep it from loosening but they are a pain to thread on the shaft, plus the added resistance can sometimes cause the shaft to turn with it.

The jamnut method is easier and better in my opinion. I'm also pretty sure the nuts are the same size.

upincomin

iTrader: (1)

Wow, you really tighten them all the way down until that rubber bushing is the same width as the washer? Haha, This would explain why I'm having such a B**CH of a time on bump when I hear BAM in the rear end like it's loose as crap. Seems to be much worse when extra people are in the car. I'll check on that and get back to you.

upincomin

iTrader: (1)

I also have the top part (the adjuster) all the way tight. I might be able to back that off a little bit now if I can get it to stop sounding so loose when I hit bumps. What exactly does the adjuster, adjust? What type of things am I looking for when I drive to know if I should tighten or loosen? Thanks guys.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

The adjuster controls the low speed rebound. How fast the wheel drops. If you adjust it too firm you can get jacking. That's where if you drive over several bumps in a row, the wheel moves up, but does not come back down to it's normal position before the next bump pushes it up again. The rear wheel runs out of room to go up and your basically riding on the bumpstop. Rough ride indeed.

Try turning both rear shocks to full soft. You will notice the back end of the car leans a little more when you turn the front wheels quickly, but it will ride much smoother. If you want to slow down the rear lean, such as in a slolom or to slide the back end out, then adjust it a bit firmer.

Most folks run the rears full soft or almost full soft.

upincomin

iTrader: (1)

Hey man, thanks for that, I'll work on that tomorrow.

upincomin

iTrader: (1)

Ok, they are all the way left (soft/loose). Still making the noise. My next guess is that there are spacers under the bump stops, Why? I dunno, is there any reason for those to be there? Or should I just remove the spacer part?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

They are there to reduce suspension travel. You can toss the spacers in the trash.

As far as your noise, do you only hear it when you hit a bump? Did you add subframe connectors or aftermarket LCA's?

upincomin

iTrader: (1)

Yes, problem only seems to happen when I hit a bump. I have subframe connectors and aftermarket LCA's. It never made this noise before and I haven't changed anything so I don't quite know what it could be. I'll try taking off those spacers and see if it gives it enough room.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

What's probably happening is that the lca bolt is not tight enough. On the sfc's that add tabs to that front mount, it makes that bolt hard to tighten enough to hold the inner steel arm bushing. Under acceleration it pushes the bolt forward and when you hit a bump it pushes that bolt backward. Over time it will elongate the hole. Plus it makes that popping sound.

Try loosening that front bolt and see if the arm is a snug fit. If not, you can push the tabs closer with a hammer blow. Another way would be to add a thin washer in there to make the fit tight. Then really crank the bolt tight. That will usually fix it.

upincomin

iTrader: (1)

Are you talking about bolt-on SFC's? Cuz mine are weld-ons. I'll check the LCA bolts tomorrow when I put it up on the rack though. Thanks for giving me something else to think about.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Both.

flymybird

I'm confused... I started adjusting my front shock firmness - and I kept rotating the adjuster with the allen wrench hoping I would eventually hit a "stop" point - but it seemed to continue rotating forever. It just kept going and going and going... Is it supposed to eventually hit one or the other end and stop? Or what am I doing wrong??

SOMSS1LE

This is great.. I always wondered how to adjust these properly.. Thanks! Now I just have to decide if I want to play with it..

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

There are 9 sweeps of the adjuster. Each sweep is 1/4 of a turn. If yours keeps turning beyond that, then something may be wrong. How much tension do you feel when you turn it?

flymybird

I got it. Thanks for the response. I had a vague idea of how much I was supposed to be turning it and probably thought I went too far, but when I installed them yesterday I realized I was only a couple sweeps from the stop.

JakeRobb

Sorry for the thread bump, but this seems like the best place to ask this.

I bought my Koni SAs used, and they did not include an adjuster **** for the rears. I've done a bit of research and discovered that Koni made two different kinds of ***** -- one with a "neck" that sticks out from the bottom, and one with a flat bottom. I've not been successful in finding a single photo of a Koni **** that shows the bottom, so I'm only going by descriptions I've found. It's unclear to me why there are two designs, or whether it matters which I use -- but I was hoping someone who has the original **** that came with the Koni set could look at theirs and tell me whether there's anything protruding from the bottom of the ****? Once I have that information, I'll order one from eBay.

The diagram in post #10 makes me think I want the one with the neck, but I don't know if that's a generic diagram from Koni or an accurate depiction of the specific setup for ours cars.

Thanks!

EDIT: I also reached out to Koni via their website. Got a response after just a few minutes! They said I want the flat-bottom *****.