UMI LCAs are NOISY!!!
#21
Have you tried the poly/rod setup yet to hear how much louder it gets, or did it not change as compared to stock?
#23
what do you guys mean by loud? road and rear end noise, squeeky, or clunky? cause i have all except the squeeky. i expected the road and rear noise, but the clunking is killing me.
#24
#25
Ive got the same problem, put about 10,000 trouble free miles on mine and now they are squeking like there is no tomorrow. Ive greased them every 3000 miles with my oil changes (making sure not to over grease, like the directions say). Ive tightened and loosened the mounting bolt (with the suspension loaded) and they still squek, im going to pull them off tonight and clean/regrease everything... hopefully that works, the noise is driving me crazy.
what kind of grease doesn UMI sell? do you just spray it on like WD-40?
edit: mine are also poly/rod end
what kind of grease doesn UMI sell? do you just spray it on like WD-40?
edit: mine are also poly/rod end
#26
Just replaced my poly spohn phb with a umi rodded unit. I have no bushing noise now I also lubed my end links. So it was either coming from the phb or the endlink. Love my UMI parts!
#28
Yes, but at the expense of binding during cornering. I've gone back and forth more times than you can imagine with LCAs...now that my car is no longer a daily driver, I can put up with the little extra noise from the poly/rod combo since the suspension feels so much better IMO.
#29
Yes, but at the expense of binding during cornering. I've gone back and forth more times than you can imagine with LCAs...now that my car is no longer a daily driver, I can put up with the little extra noise from the poly/rod combo since the suspension feels so much better IMO.
#31
#32
Actually my best recommendation is to use the stock arms with the solid moog bushings. It will allow the proper articulation required and has a much lower deflection than the stock star style rubber bushings. The other option is to get some J&M 3 piece poly LCA's. I believe LMPerformance carries them. The easiest way to explain them is that they are a Poly version of a rod end. I'll see if I can find the torque comparison for articulation of the solid poly and the 3 piece J&M's that one of the guys from frrax did and post it up.
*EDIT*
Found it. Trackbird did this by the way.
Poly-Ball Bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque
Standard 2 piece setup using only a 85 durometer bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.
*EDIT*
Found it. Trackbird did this by the way.
Poly-Ball Bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque
Standard 2 piece setup using only a 85 durometer bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.
Last edited by tpunk; 08-22-2008 at 02:37 AM.
#33
Actually my best recommendation is to use the stock arms with the solid moog bushings. It will allow the proper articulation required and has a much lower deflection than the stock star style rubber bushings. The other option is to get some J&M 3 piece poly LCA's. I believe LMPerformance carries them. The easiest way to explain them is that they are a Poly version of a rod end. I'll see if I can find the torque comparison for articulation of the solid poly and the 3 piece J&M's that one of the guys from frrax did and post it up.
*EDIT*
Found it. Trackbird did this by the way.
Poly-Ball Bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque
Standard 2 piece setup using only a 85 durometer bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.
*EDIT*
Found it. Trackbird did this by the way.
Poly-Ball Bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque
Standard 2 piece setup using only a 85 durometer bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.
#34
I agree with what's stated above. What I'd really like to see is for J&M to make some of their "poly-ball" ends for replacement on stock arms and/or a replacement threaded bushing for "rod-end replacement" (similar to something like the modified Howe racing rubber bushing).
#35
Actually my best recommendation is to use the stock arms with the solid moog bushings. It will allow the proper articulation required and has a much lower deflection than the stock star style rubber bushings. The other option is to get some J&M 3 piece poly LCA's. I believe LMPerformance carries them. The easiest way to explain them is that they are a Poly version of a rod end. I'll see if I can find the torque comparison for articulation of the solid poly and the 3 piece J&M's that one of the guys from frrax did and post it up.
*EDIT*
Found it. Trackbird did this by the way.
Poly-Ball Bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque
Standard 2 piece setup using only a 85 durometer bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.
*EDIT*
Found it. Trackbird did this by the way.
Poly-Ball Bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque
Standard 2 piece setup using only a 85 durometer bushings
5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque
10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.
I have gone UMI on everything else though with complete satisfation.
Here's a pic or 2
Great Product
#36
The J&M arms are quality, they were first set of LCA's. They made no noise whatsoever, but they weren't adjustable. With my relocation brackets, they wheels were too far back. I now have UMI poly/rod arms and they rattle over gravel, I've torqued them to 90 ft lbs, but I guess I'll have tighten em more.
#37
The J&M arms are quality, they were first set of LCA's. They made no noise whatsoever, but they weren't adjustable. With my relocation brackets, they wheels were too far back. I now have UMI poly/rod arms and they rattle over gravel, I've torqued them to 90 ft lbs, but I guess I'll have tighten em more.