BBYZED

Hey everyone,

I've got a 2000 Z28 with M6. I lowered my car earlier this summer, and installed an adj panhad bar at the same time. I'm still experiencing some drivetrain whine, mostly just in 6th gear. So, time to get an adj torque arm. I'm looking for a couple recommendations:

1. Which is the better option, connecting to the tunnel brace or the transmission?

2. I'm leaning toward the UMI adj tq arm, but is there another similar option that may be lighter or stronger?

3. Keep in mind that my car is still pretty close to stock power wise, with no plans to have a 9 sec 1/4 mile car, so the extreme duty arm is likely not necessary.

Thanks!

BadBandit69

iTrader: (13)

well if you get the tunnel brace style ta that is designed for longtubes you will lose some ground clearance. The trans connect ta is i believe a lil cheaper. But if you plan on running some low 60's it may not be the best choice. The chromemoly versions are stronger and lighter. Btw i have the umi tunnel mount and love it. My car is lowered about an 1" and I do hit the crossmember from time to time. But it is one stout piece so you don't have to worry about hurting it.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

Its not better to connect the TA to the trans. Its better to get the relocation crossmember & get the TA off the trans if you go with a TA. I have heard many stories of the trans tailshaft housing breaking because TA is trans mounted. Getting the relocation crossmember & adjustable TA costs more than the tunnel mounted. Thats one of the reasons I went with the tunnel mounted.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

We offer a full length torque arm/relocation setup that will clear your long tubes and is one of the strongest setups on the market. I will post you a link and some pictures. Give me a call if you have any questions. We are in the office mon-fri 8:30am-6pm est.

http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F4.htm

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Let's take a step back here and review what the thread starter stated. Mostly: "3. Keep in mind that my car is still pretty close to stock power wise, with no plans to have a 9 sec 1/4 mile car, so the extreme duty arm is likely not necessary."

It's clear you want an adjustable TA. That's fine. The trick is deciding what style...

Regarding Trans vs. Tunnel mount: For all the whining about the tranny mount, it's very rare they break and even less in situations where the isn't making stupid power. I think the tranny mount is more than adequate in most normal situations.

If you absolutely want to get the TA off the tranny, that's fine too. Then you have to decide which type of TA you want to do that job. Choices being tunnel mount, or standard TA with a relocation bracket.

I opt for the standard length TA with relocation bracket for a couple of very simple reasons. First, the relocation bracket is a new tranny crossmember and bolts to/puts the TA load into a part of the floor designed for drivetrain loads from GM. Further that setup transmits less vibration--again due to the fact it's bolted to a much stronger part of the floorpan.

If you opt for a tunnel mount you need to consider that the TA will bolt to a thin part of the car (and if you aren't sure, just look at it vs. where the transmission crossmember/TA relocation bracket bolts up). That location is not only thinner, but also right under you. *IF* you opt for this setup, I pretty much consider it a requirement to also have 3-point SFC's to disperse the TA load to the SFC's and outer unibody rails and not into the sheet metal floorpan.

What I'm recommending is a standard length TA. You can do that for $299.

If you want it off the tranny you get a relocation bracket for $239.


Those two together do add up to more than a tunnel mounted TA. However you can do them separately if you want to. TA first, bracket later. And If you add 3-pt SFC's to the cost of the the tunnel mount TA (assuming you don't have the SFC's already) you're actually spending a bunch more money.

TA's and Relocation brackets can be seen here: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=18&ModelID=7

SFC's are here: http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=22&ModelID=7

BBYZED

Good stuff so far, and I'll add a bit more.

I have the BMR boxed, weld-in SFCs on the car. I'm going for the adjustable ta so the pinion angle can be adjusted to remove the drivetrain noise, and of course, make the chassis just a little stronger.

Given Sam's advice, the standard length seems fine. Mostly I was just worried about the ta having the same effect as some transmission mounts were reported to have, in that they created more noise and vibration.

Now, that being said, I do plan to add headers in the future, so the standard length ta will allow me the most flexibility in that regard?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

The TA will not make the chassis any stronger, fwiw. It's a suspension part, not a chassis part like SFC's or STB's. And the noise comes from not from tranny mounted TA's, but tunnel mounted ones. After all the standard TA is tranny mounted too.

I'm wondering if there might not be a bit of confusion here. If so, you can feel free to call me to discuss. 814-849-3450

ynkssws6

iTrader: (1)

Sam,

I'm in the same boat of the OP. I have diamond bolt in subframe connectors with LT's and the QTP merge. Can I give you a call and help me out?

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Sure.....

BBYZED

It is a suspension part. It's just my dumb a** using the wrong terms.

The noise I was referring to was not from TAs, but from people replacing the tranny mount itself (from what I had heard). I want the adj ta to reduce or remove the drivetrain noise (pinion angle being off), and off course to aid with launches.

I'm not confused, I think.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

My tunnel mount UMI does not vibrate the car anymore than stock. But Im still messing with it because sometimes on hard downshifts or launches there is some very loud banging coming from somewhere near the mount or rear of the trans or possibly DS is banging the loop???? Still not possitive what it is and it doesnt happen unless your WOT. Anyone else with this prob? I really dont want to use washers to drop the mount a bit. With the suspension fully dropped the DS weight DOES just barely rub the DS loop.

tpunk

iTrader: (8)

Don't forget also that if you get into some really hard braking you are much more likely to induce wheel hop with a shorter TA. I'm a big fan of the UMI arm with the relocation kit, I just don't need it on a V6