C5 conversion, down side to using camaro caliper pads?
C5 conversion, down side to using camaro caliper pads? As title states are there any down sides to using the camaro caliper and pads with the C5 rotors. Or more specifically are the pads different in size to where it would matter any?
Thanks in advance.
cliffnotes, I want bigger and better and dont care about the bling.
Thanks in advance.
cliffnotes, I want bigger and better and dont care about the bling.
Well, IIRC the only C5 Conversion that utilizes the stock Camaro abutment bracket and pads in the LG Motor Sports one . . .
All the other conversions require the C5 Abutment, which would also require the C5 pads . . . .
All the other conversions require the C5 Abutment, which would also require the C5 pads . . . .
So you have stock everything as far as brakes are concerned, and you want to add on C5 rotors right? I don't think that's possible. The rotor diameter I don't think clears the stock calipers. Does it?
thats exactly what I wanted to know but just couldnt get it worded that way for whatever reason, surface area, thank you. I was curious if the pads were the same if so then the gains would be marginal but somewhat effective but the larger pads would definately add some bite.
Ok I was able to put in a couple hours last night of reading and it looks like the F body caliper CAN be used and it actually clamps harder than the vette caliper, the F body caliper also has larger pistons than the vette calipers so some say they clamp TOO hard and upset the brake balance, but the vette calipers have an advantage by being forged insead of cast. What I found is that LG is the only company that anyone identified that made/make a bracket that the F body caliper worked with, all the others required the C5 caliper.
Thanks to all that replied your info helped me search out proper terms to search with, I hesitated posting but I wasnt finding what I was looking for in my previous search.
next question, anyone done this upgrade and think they would have been just as well off doing quality drilled/slotted rotors and some good pads on the stock LS1 brakes ( not LT1 brakes.
Thanks to all that replied your info helped me search out proper terms to search with, I hesitated posting but I wasnt finding what I was looking for in my previous search.
next question, anyone done this upgrade and think they would have been just as well off doing quality drilled/slotted rotors and some good pads on the stock LS1 brakes ( not LT1 brakes.
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drilled/slotted are for looks only. its beating a dead horse, but put some more research time in and youll see there is no advantage at all to them. its all for looks. if you want to stop better, use blanks. if you do want looks, then get them.
i have a full C5 conversion, but i race my car. i wanted it for stopping power. the LS1 brakes are very, very good stock. for a daily driver its really not worth it, unless youre just looking for something to do. if you want more stopping power, get brembo blanks and hawk HPS, with fresh fluid in the system.
i have a full C5 conversion, but i race my car. i wanted it for stopping power. the LS1 brakes are very, very good stock. for a daily driver its really not worth it, unless youre just looking for something to do. if you want more stopping power, get brembo blanks and hawk HPS, with fresh fluid in the system.
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Verdad Gallardo drilled/slotted are for looks only. its beating a dead horse, but put some more research time in and youll see there is no advantage at all to them. its all for looks. if you want to stop better, use blanks. if you do want looks, then get them.
i have a full C5 conversion, but i race my car. i wanted it for stopping power. the LS1 brakes are very, very good stock. for a daily driver its really not worth it, unless youre just looking for something to do. if you want more stopping power, get brembo blanks and hawk HPS, with fresh fluid in the system.
i have a full C5 conversion, but i race my car. i wanted it for stopping power. the LS1 brakes are very, very good stock. for a daily driver its really not worth it, unless youre just looking for something to do. if you want more stopping power, get brembo blanks and hawk HPS, with fresh fluid in the system.
What have been the best pads you have used so far that do not need to be heated to bite, resist fade from heat, and low dust?
On your basic street car yeah they aren't really doing much but they are not there for no reason whatsoever.
slotting/drilling is to help expel gases/water/dirt that get trapped between the pad and rotor.... I have a very hard time believing that nascar/superbikes etc etc etc use drilled or slotted rotors for looks. I even just looked up some lemans vehicles and the ones I saw were drilled, only a couple holes but they were drilled.
But I really dont want to get into a discussion about the drilled deal I know what you mean.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Sep 30, 2008 at 06:26 PM.
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On your basic street car yeah they aren't really doing much but they are not there for no reason whatsoever.
slotting/drilling is to help expel gases/water/dirt that get trapped between the pad and rotor.... I have a very hard time believing that nascar/superbikes etc etc etc use drilled or slotted rotors for looks. I even just looked up some lemans vehicles and the ones I saw were drilled, only a couple holes but they were drilled.
But I really dont want to get into a discussion about the drilled deal I know what you mean.
slotting/drilling is to help expel gases/water/dirt that get trapped between the pad and rotor.... I have a very hard time believing that nascar/superbikes etc etc etc use drilled or slotted rotors for looks. I even just looked up some lemans vehicles and the ones I saw were drilled, only a couple holes but they were drilled.
But I really dont want to get into a discussion about the drilled deal I know what you mean.
Read though this thread about drilled/slotted rotors.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/353903-brake-faq.html
I have done this upgrade with the LG brackets. The Fbod calipers clamp hard and the nose does dive a bit more, in my car it's offset by the Bilsteins (Konis would make it a non issue). Eventually, the fbod calipers may spread and you'll see uneven wear. The bottom line in my experience:
It WILL stop harder
It WILL reduce/eliminate pulsing (along with good rotors)
It fills the wheel better
WELL worth it to me and economical. Once I decide to replace the calipers, I'll decide then which to use. C5s will be better balanced and pads are cheaper. I like the Hawk HPS, they are quiet, effective, and I get 30-30k out of the fronts.
Very economical way to go, the LG setup, no need to pull calipers, bleed, etc. Just swap the pads and rotors and off you go.
It WILL stop harder
It WILL reduce/eliminate pulsing (along with good rotors)
It fills the wheel better
WELL worth it to me and economical. Once I decide to replace the calipers, I'll decide then which to use. C5s will be better balanced and pads are cheaper. I like the Hawk HPS, they are quiet, effective, and I get 30-30k out of the fronts.
Very economical way to go, the LG setup, no need to pull calipers, bleed, etc. Just swap the pads and rotors and off you go.
Try Hawk HPS. I've had them on my car for over 1000 miles, little to no dust, great bite, no squeaking, and resists fade way better than stock (I have yet to experience fade).
Please don't bring nascar into a racing discussion, it is the special olympics of racing... Check out LeMans and F1 cars...Read though this thread about drilled/slotted rotors.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=353903
Please don't bring nascar into a racing discussion, it is the special olympics of racing... Check out LeMans and F1 cars...Read though this thread about drilled/slotted rotors.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=353903
Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
slotting/drilling is to help expel gases/water/dirt that get trapped between the pad and rotor.... I have a very hard time believing that nascar/superbikes etc etc etc use drilled or slotted rotors for looks. I even just looked up some lemans vehicles and the ones I saw were drilled, only a couple holes but they were drilled.
thanks for the reference on the pads I will definately look into them, and I havent read the link yet but I will when I get done cooking.
I have done this upgrade with the LG brackets. The Fbod calipers clamp hard and the nose does dive a bit more, in my car it's offset by the Bilsteins (Konis would make it a non issue). Eventually, the fbod calipers may spread and you'll see uneven wear. The bottom line in my experience:
It WILL stop harder
It WILL reduce/eliminate pulsing (along with good rotors)
It fills the wheel better
WELL worth it to me and economical. Once I decide to replace the calipers, I'll decide then which to use. C5s will be better balanced and pads are cheaper. I like the Hawk HPS, they are quiet, effective, and I get 30-30k out of the fronts.
Very economical way to go, the LG setup, no need to pull calipers, bleed, etc. Just swap the pads and rotors and off you go.
It WILL stop harder
It WILL reduce/eliminate pulsing (along with good rotors)
It fills the wheel better
WELL worth it to me and economical. Once I decide to replace the calipers, I'll decide then which to use. C5s will be better balanced and pads are cheaper. I like the Hawk HPS, they are quiet, effective, and I get 30-30k out of the fronts.
Very economical way to go, the LG setup, no need to pull calipers, bleed, etc. Just swap the pads and rotors and off you go.
Thanks man, I did see someone besides you say the F body calipers can spread, but at what likely hood? has it happened to you?
Try Hawk HPS. I've had them on my car for over 1000 miles, little to no dust, great bite, no squeaking, and resists fade way better than stock (I have yet to experience fade).
Please don't bring nascar into a racing discussion, it is the special olympics of racing... Check out LeMans and F1 cars...
Read though this thread about drilled/slotted rotors.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=353903
Please don't bring nascar into a racing discussion, it is the special olympics of racing... Check out LeMans and F1 cars...
Read though this thread about drilled/slotted rotors.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=353903
Ok that link rocked, thank you for the info. I still would like to have a couple slots like the ones on my rear rotors ( just got new ebc's cheaper than cheapo autozone ones so already got those ) mostly for when the rotors get wet, and the way they are designed the exit the edge of the rotor and would "throw" out and debirs. But that was a good read, definately makes me consider just blanks for the front.
And so far Hawk HPS seems to be the most suggested, On my integra I tried Axxis Ultimate's and they dusted so bad I just went back to stock which worked just as good ( made by nissin ) an very little dust so I have been abrasive to buying aftermarket since, any different variations of the HPS I should look for or does the HPS only come in one flavor?
Thanks again guys.
I will only use Hawk HPS, would like to try the HP+ but HATE squeaking and the HPS have been super quiet for me.
I am getting a little uneven pad wear. It's hard to say whether it's due to caliper spread or caliper slides not well/evenly lubed over time. It's common on our cars though, which is another good reason to switch to C5 calipers. After 160k, it's not terribly surprising. Still stops DAMN hard though, and no fade.
Read up on posts by Sam, trackbird, and mitchntx -use blank rotors.
I am getting a little uneven pad wear. It's hard to say whether it's due to caliper spread or caliper slides not well/evenly lubed over time. It's common on our cars though, which is another good reason to switch to C5 calipers. After 160k, it's not terribly surprising. Still stops DAMN hard though, and no fade.
Read up on posts by Sam, trackbird, and mitchntx -use blank rotors.
the holes/slots do nothing for when the rotor gets wet. trust me. think about it. if/when they get wet, youre usually traveling at speed. which means the rotor is spinning at who knows how fast. what little water there is on it will be slung off by centrifical force. if there is water on it, it will be heated/dried/evaporated instantly when you hit the brakes. this is not including driving through a deep puddle and hitting the brakes.....then of course youll have increased stopping distance.
and for bashing NASCAR......blow me scooter. try bringing a 3400lb car down from 200mph to 100 every lap for 4hrs, and tell me that has nothing to do with brakes or real racing.
and for bashing NASCAR......blow me scooter. try bringing a 3400lb car down from 200mph to 100 every lap for 4hrs, and tell me that has nothing to do with brakes or real racing.
the holes/slots do nothing for when the rotor gets wet. trust me. think about it. if/when they get wet, youre usually traveling at speed. which means the rotor is spinning at who knows how fast. what little water there is on it will be slung off by centrifical force. if there is water on it, it will be heated/dried/evaporated instantly when you hit the brakes. this is not including driving through a deep puddle and hitting the brakes.....then of course youll have increased stopping distance.
and for bashing NASCAR......blow me scooter. try bringing a 3400lb car down from 200mph to 100 every lap for 4hrs, and tell me that has nothing to do with brakes or real racing.
and for bashing NASCAR......blow me scooter. try bringing a 3400lb car down from 200mph to 100 every lap for 4hrs, and tell me that has nothing to do with brakes or real racing.
X2 im no nascar fan but they still have some serious brakes on those things.
and by the way here is a pic of a nascar ( truck ) brake rotor
