Need help on Koni/spring install ASAP!!!!
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Need help on Koni/spring install ASAP!!!!
It's a long story. This is what happened. There's some metal hitting/something loose noise after installed Koni and Vogtland spring. So I try to figure out what's wrong. I even take out the front swaybar and go around the block, noise still there when I hit a bump.
Now, I take the pass. side strut out. Here's what I notice:
1) There's about 1/4in thread stick out on top. Did I tighten it too much? (fig1)
2) There's only 1/4in play in between the top mount and the strut. Is it a problem? (fig2)
3) I found there's two 2in matel washer comes with my Koni. Do I have to install them in between the top mount and the strut? (fig3)
I work on alot different suspension but this is the first time I do F-body. I hope I can fix it today. So any help/idea will be helpful. Thanx a million.
Now, I take the pass. side strut out. Here's what I notice:
1) There's about 1/4in thread stick out on top. Did I tighten it too much? (fig1)
2) There's only 1/4in play in between the top mount and the strut. Is it a problem? (fig2)
3) I found there's two 2in matel washer comes with my Koni. Do I have to install them in between the top mount and the strut? (fig3)
I work on alot different suspension but this is the first time I do F-body. I hope I can fix it today. So any help/idea will be helpful. Thanx a million.
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You know, I really shouldn't do this. And before I do, I'm going to tell you the problems you are having are because you didn't buy the parts from a source that can tell you these things. I tell ALL my customers how to do this, and you frankly messed it up. This is why I BEG people to consider more than the price alone when buying stuff. I can't give you my proprietary information because you aren't my customer. But I'll tell you what I can.
Yes... the gap is a problem and the reason for your clunking. Yes the washers are to be used (they don't send them for hell of it).
Yes... the gap is a problem and the reason for your clunking. Yes the washers are to be used (they don't send them for hell of it).
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
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You're welcome. Good luck
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
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sorry I've to bring it back up. I just notice it today during a cruise. Pass side rear sit higher than driver side. It's like about 3/4" difference. I look at the pass side endlink, there's a cap too. It drives ok so I just drive it home.
Once hit home, I checked the cap again. Suprisingly, the cap even out. And both endlink is even too. I checked the rear shock top nut and bottom nut. They're all ok.
Is that a possiblity the spring sit in wrong spot while driving?
Once hit home, I checked the cap again. Suprisingly, the cap even out. And both endlink is even too. I checked the rear shock top nut and bottom nut. They're all ok.
Is that a possiblity the spring sit in wrong spot while driving?
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It's really common. Did you install an adjustable panhard bar when you lowered your car? If not, your rearend will be off center, and that can contribute a lot to the difference in gaps.
-Mike
-Mike