Modifying Your Front Upper Shock Mount
#222
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I didn't cut anything off the springs themselves - they're Intrax 2in lowering springs. The shocks are otherwise unmodified Bilsteins. The only thing I did was the upper mount mod and I cut exactly .75in off each side as per Jason's instructions
I like the way it looks but to be safe, I've got some spacers and I'll be raising the front a half-inch or so this weekend
#223
To reiterate, what this mod does is allow a lowered car to ride smoother. Normally a car as low as VinR1's above would ride pretty rough up front. With the mod it lets the tires move up more when you hit a bump and hence, a smoother ride.
Also, about spring rates and cutting stock springs:
Stock 300lb/inch front springs gain 25lb/inch for each coil you cut. So cutting 1/3 of a coil would not be a noticable rate increase at all.
The 110-115lb/inch rears gain 20lb for each coil you cut. That's a good thing because it's a noticable increase in rate on a spring that's too soft from the factory.
Also, about spring rates and cutting stock springs:
Stock 300lb/inch front springs gain 25lb/inch for each coil you cut. So cutting 1/3 of a coil would not be a noticable rate increase at all.
The 110-115lb/inch rears gain 20lb for each coil you cut. That's a good thing because it's a noticable increase in rate on a spring that's too soft from the factory.
#224
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iTrader: (13)
I need to re-read the thread if its been covered but what differences are there on the ground control kit? I need more travel up front. I dont hit the bumpstops now but i did raise it a tad this year for that reason. I want to put it back down 1/2 inch in front but need the travel.
Im assuming an angle grinder will cut through that pretty quick?
Im assuming an angle grinder will cut through that pretty quick?
#226
TECH Resident
iTrader: (13)
This must be similar to what I did to the front of my c4. I have custom bushings that are much thinner than stock on the shock in front below the mount and I just put them on top of the mount allowing the shock to be raised that much higher in relation to the chassis. gives me more travel being lowered.
So all I'm really doing here is cutting the bottom of the mount. removing the washer inside the middle of the piece that is cut and putting it on the topside? Thus allowing the shock to be raised upwards at full extension. Im sure it was repeated numerous times but I never took the time to think about it. For some reason the piece that is cut off looked like it would make a big hole the first time I looked at it.
So all I'm really doing here is cutting the bottom of the mount. removing the washer inside the middle of the piece that is cut and putting it on the topside? Thus allowing the shock to be raised upwards at full extension. Im sure it was repeated numerous times but I never took the time to think about it. For some reason the piece that is cut off looked like it would make a big hole the first time I looked at it.
#227
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As it is sitting now the front of my car is sitting 1 inch higher than the rear from weight reductions in the engine bay. Im on bilsteins and the stock springs. Im glad I found this because before my only solution was drag coilovers. Being able to lower, keep a soft spring, and keep my bilsteins with the travel they need is amazing.
Ideally I would like to be about 1 inch lower than stock. So that most likely means I need to drop down 2 inches. Any idea how much spring I might need to cut starting so high up?
Also how would lowering A arms play into this? Could you do the upper mount mod AND lowering A arms? The bmr lowering a arms drop an inch. I dont know if anybody has ever done both of these together.
Ideally I would like to be about 1 inch lower than stock. So that most likely means I need to drop down 2 inches. Any idea how much spring I might need to cut starting so high up?
Also how would lowering A arms play into this? Could you do the upper mount mod AND lowering A arms? The bmr lowering a arms drop an inch. I dont know if anybody has ever done both of these together.
#230
I think I got it now...
I'm getting ready to do this myself but was having an issue with wrapping brain cells around just why the shock wouldn't be bottoming out easier. So I did what I always do in these cases... drew a picture
I guess the important point I had to visualize here was that at ride height the spring is compressed the same amount, and the upper and lower perches are in the same position, so the car isn't lowered. The difference is the piston in the shock is physically located higher in the shock body, meaning it has a longer distance to travel during suspension compression before "bottoming" itself internally.
Mark.
I guess the important point I had to visualize here was that at ride height the spring is compressed the same amount, and the upper and lower perches are in the same position, so the car isn't lowered. The difference is the piston in the shock is physically located higher in the shock body, meaning it has a longer distance to travel during suspension compression before "bottoming" itself internally.
Mark.
#231
Yes you can do both things, but remember, the tire can only go so high (when hitting a bump or something) before it touches the sheetmetal.
#233
when lifting the front tires to measure how much clearance I have, how about the wire mod - is there something I should worry about this? Is it ok if it rubs on the plastic a little or should I measure to make sure it doesn't touch the plastic at all? Thanks guys - I look forward to doing this mod and getting back that 1" of travel !
#235
good to know ! What kind of springs/drop are you running again? Im running GMS springs (1.2 inch drop) and the zr1 oe wheels 9.5 front with 275 nittos
#237
#239
thanks for that info I will double check and then go ahead and go with it !