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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 01:12 PM
  #21  
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I've heard of people paying a lot more than that for a cover to cover built motor. Even considering the the block and (lets say billet) crank were ~$6k.

DIY FTW
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
I've heard of people paying a lot more than that for a cover to cover built motor. Even considering the the block and (lets say billet) crank were ~$6k.

DIY FTW
Yeah. These motors can add up.

It was pretty easy to spend 20 or 25k on a nice motor. Using pretty much just off the shelf stock style parts.

I'd imagine the real high end exotic **** has to be damn near double?
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by blackonblacksls
I think Id rather pass my kids down a bunch of badass corvettes than a bunch of cash..
To each his own
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
I don't think so. On their site they list the LS2 core as $1300 and LS3 core as $1450.
The best part of their core charge, vendors here sell NEW blocks for less than those core charges.

Buy new block, turn in core, profit?
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 02:34 PM
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You can find 6.2 Aluminum truck blocks for $500 or less
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:02 PM
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If I could have found one for that price (and ERL takes those) I would have gone that route.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
If I could have found one for that price (and ERL takes those) I would have gone that route.
Water under the bridge now i suppose. What are your expectations for the car now?
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by imma_stocker
The best part of their core charge, vendors here sell NEW blocks for less than those core charges.

Buy new block, turn in core, profit?
Not sure its "profit". Just less you end up paying. Thats like your girlfriend telling you she "saved a bunch of money" by buying her Luis Vitton (sp) purse on sale. LOL

But yea, with those core charge prices it's definitely worth sleuthing for one of your own. I was under the impression they couldn't be had for <$1000.

Anyway, I'm pot committed to the LSX at this point.

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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by oscs
Water under the bridge now i suppose. What are your expectations for the car now?
Not much different than before. Should finally crack a grand on boost only with the extra cubes and bigger cam. Maybe 1200 on spray if I can sack up enough to spray it again.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
Not much different than before. Should finally crack a grand on boost only with the extra cubes and bigger cam. Maybe 1200 on spray if I can sack up enough to spray it again.
What turbos? That engine will laugh at 200 shot of nitrous.. I thought you where going to say at least 1500whp.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:37 PM
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I'm scurd. When I sprayed it at TI it lifted/torched the head and then it cracked the block spraying at 2K. But six bolts (well 5, my All Pros don't have the upper bolt holes) and CA625 studs and the LSX, none of that should be a problem. The crank (Eagle) and rods (ARP 2000 Eagles) are the weak points now.

I probably would turn it up if the turbos didn't suck so bad. The TTIX kit is far from ideal to begin with; log manifolds and T3 exhaust housings create lots of backpressure. Then when I "upgraded" to 62/65's I cheaped out and got run of the mill journal bearing cast weel Turbonetics. I really don't think they move any more air than the old BB 58 turbonetics. To have to crank it to ~25# to make a grand kinda sucks for a big cube turbo motor. Anyway, it is what it is. At this point I just want to be able to drive it for more than 3 months without it breaking.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by oscs
You can find 6.2 Aluminum truck blocks for $500 or less
I'll give you a finders fee if you snag one for me. Just starting to piece together a motor.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 03:59 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
I'm scurd. When I sprayed it at TI it lifted/torched the head and then it cracked the block spraying at 2K. But six bolts (well 5, my All Pros don't have the upper bolt holes) and CA625 studs and the LSX, none of that should be a problem. The crank (Eagle) and rods (ARP 2000 Eagles) are the weak points now.

I probably would turn it up if the turbos didn't suck so bad. The TTIX kit is far from ideal to begin with; log manifolds and T3 exhaust housings create lots of backpressure. Then when I "upgraded" to 62/65's I cheaped out and got run of the mill journal bearing cast weel Turbonetics. I really don't think they move any more air than the old BB 58 turbonetics. To have to crank it to ~25# to make a grand kinda sucks for a big cube turbo motor. Anyway, it is what it is. At this point I just want to be able to drive it for more than 3 months without it breaking.


Well i can defiantly relate to just wanting to drive it, My **** is always giving me trouble.... As far as nitrous is concerned, I wouldn't know the first thing but imagine a solid tune should fix all that. I like my shitty cast wheel Turbonetics turbos, There is defeintly better out there but damn they where cheap! If they dont lay down 1000whp at 25lbs and E85 im going to toss them in the trash though.. I made 660ish on 14lbs and pump gas with the 66/65's
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