TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IFd_sumIZ0

It's perfectly fine in neutral, but once in drive(load on the engine) and throttle is given it starts stuttering. Heres what I've got so far knocked out

spark plugs look good, 15k miles old
fuel pressure is good
fuel pump is brand new
fuel filter is 15k miles old
fuel injectors, look very clean
--I am also not throwing any codes relating to engine performance, I am throwing codes referring to the control fan circuits tho(its had those codes since i installed the engine) so the check engine light does work, scanner is showing NO misfires also!(very weird)

the only thing I have in my mind right now is that the coils might be going out, but if all cylinders are acting up(and ls1 use a coil per cylinder(coil packs)) would this makes sense? I have no idea how old the spark plug wires are, they do not look bad or old at all. The coils are the stock ones though (would have about 80,000miles now or so)

What do you guys think? I posted in Gen III external engine section but no one is helping out, I figured all the smart guys hang out in the Texas forum so I would try here

Let me know what you guys think

thanks in advance

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Well check the grounds for the coils its on the back of the head usually not sure about yours. I definately think it is spark related though seems to only do it under a load from what I could hear. And borrow a set of coils from a friend and see what it does for you to eliminate the coils with out costing a ton of money. GL! A tech 2 will tell you a lot though even if there are no trouble codes.
Jeff

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

try a different maf from someone else with an ls1. see if that helps the problem.

LS2 KLR

iTrader: (1)

Have you touched anything on the car recently? It wouldn't hurt to clean the maf or ensure you don't have any loose ground wires. A coil sounds like a good idea to cheack but I would assume you would get a code for that one?

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

well, since it's not having a problem in neutral that would rule out the MAF. I've actually had a problem with my MAF before, wouldn't idle right and would do all sorts of crazy things when driving(like backfire). Wouldn't even rev in neutral lol I remember back when it was doing that if i would unplug the MAF it would start idling fine and would run somewhat fine(didn't drive it like that though). Just to make sure i unplugged my MAF and went down the street and it still did the stuttering(just now)

yes, this weekend I plan on swapping coils/wires with a friend. Hopefully we get a fix. are the grounds for the coils the 2 grounds on the back of the passenger side head? yup they are tight


Does anyone think that there is even a chance that ALL my coils would start acting up all at once? seems unlikely, which does make it sound like a ground problem.

What about a vacuum leak? MAP? TPS?

it started this about 2 weeks ago, first day it stuttered one time(barely even noticed it) then each day after that it did it more and more, now it wont barely move when i give it the gas.

i changed my oil 2 weeks ago, but i doubt that would have an effect on anything lol

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

The two grounds you are talking about one is for the injectors and the other is for the coils. Yeah I don't think all the coils will go out at once either, but just an easy way to eliminate a possiblilty. If changing the coils fixed it then you would know where you need to start looking etc... If you had a vacum leak it would really have trouble finding idle. TPS Hmmm don't know exactly what it would cause. MAP sensor never had one go bad so it would be a new one on me. Like I said a tech 2 would help alot to just look at where every thing is at fuel trims TPS readings and the MAP also. It could just save you a lot of trouble shooting. GL.

Pwebbz28

iTrader: (31)

Need to put it on a scanner to really see whats going on. If you dont you are just guessing.

Tootall

iTrader: (78)

find someone with HP Tuners in your area, and do some loging

auto or 5 speed ?

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

auto, 4l60e. I have a guy that is going to datalog it this weekend/next week

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

what kind of fuel pump did you put in? walboro's have been known to fail from time to time.

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

lol walbro 255lph, I thought that was the problem as it was making a really loud whinning noise(as if it were going out). Swapped it out a week ago with a new one and the problem still continues

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

so, just swapped out all the coils and any plug wires that seemed to maybe be bad. it is still doing it

what I have noticed is that is it ALOT worse in warmer weather. During the daytime today it was about 85 degrees and it was running extremely bad. I parked it and waited about 5 hours till about 8:30pm to go to a friends house to swap the coils, by this time its 60 degrees. I remember back when I thought i heard it sputter a few weeks ago(one very faint sputter), it was cold weather but starting to warm up(to where it is now).

anyways... I guess I'm going to datalog it and see what that tells me

02SStreetmachine

iTrader: (2)

You might be running rich...too much fuel does it at times too. That was the case with mine at one time.

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

so today I decided to go put some gas in it(im about on empty) just to rule out that it wasnt the gas that was in it before(problem started occuring around the time i filled up). I couldn't even make it out of the apartment parkinglot though it was so bad. Now instead of doing it when I apply the gas, it does it just when i put it into drive. also if i press on the brakes really hard from a 3mph roll it will also start to sputter/try to die. It died on me about 5 times, then threw a P0336 code, which is Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit A Range/Performance. Im guessing that was just because the engine was surging from the extremely low idle? It also threw the code the other night when I swapped out different coils onto it(was also sputtering once put into drive)

let me know what you guys think

also, when it was acting up really bad just now I could put it in reverse and it wouldnt act up at all, I even accelerated in reverse without a problem. Then i put it back into drive and without even hitting the gas it starts to idle bad/want to die.

Tootall

iTrader: (78)

how old is the converter . . . what is it, what's it out of?

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

The converter is a circle D rebuild off a trail blazer, "heavy duty" converter only has 15000miles on it

TXjeepTJ

iTrader: (8)

verdict:

So, I had my gf hop in the drivers seat and put it in drive (stopped) while I messed around with the engine. I looked at the battery and remembered that my ground attachment there(walmart brand) never held the cable tight. Right when I touched the cable, the engine stalled. started back up and every time I touched that it stalled

SO, tightend it up really good and went on a test drive. all the way up to 6k rpm stayed crazy strong.


the problem was the freaking - battery cable... wow FML lol

OUTLAWZ RACING

iTrader: (9)

WTF Beat me to it JK!!! Good job..