Anyone familiar with this issue?
Anyone familiar with this issue? So here is the story guys I have been noticing my oil gauge gradually move to zero from the middle(40) on my TA then as I drive it go to zero and the car won't run anymore I turn it on and the idle is super rough and the check gauges lights turns on and the oil is bounces up and down on zero then when I apply the breaks to put it in drive it turns off. I then let it sit for a couple hours and when I turn it on its fine and then as I drive the problem repeats. 
I checked my oil and I have plenty and after an oil change it still does it.
Any idea on what can be the problem??:bang
I checked my oil and I have plenty and after an oil change it still does it.Any idea on what can be the problem??:bang
So here is the story guys I have been noticing my oil gauge gradually move to zero from the middle(40) on my TA then as I drive it go to zero and the car won't run anymore I turn it on and the idle is super rough and the check gauges lights turns on and the oil is bounces up and down on zero then when I apply the breaks to put it in drive it turns off. I then let it sit for a couple hours and when I turn it on its fine and then as I drive the problem repeats. I checked my oil and I have plenty and after an oil change it still does it.
Any idea on what can be the problem??:bang
I checked my oil and I have plenty and after an oil change it still does it.Any idea on what can be the problem??:bang
Just a guess if you still have oil and no pressure it would be a oil pump issue.
If you keep driving it you are going to lock that SOB up if you haven't already done major damage.
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To remove and replace an oil pump a typical shop will charge you $800 in labor.
Stop driving it immediately. You have probably already done some real damage. If that motor locks you're looking at spending 3 grand minimum
Stop driving it immediately. You have probably already done some real damage. If that motor locks you're looking at spending 3 grand minimum
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Cheaper to do it now, your going to have to park the car either way.
Now let’s go over the math on this.
more parts and labor to fix = costs more money
so called "oil pump" labor and cost = cheap as hell for the situation you’re in.
I would say start walking, get a bicycle, ride the bus, or rent a car. It really doesn't matter but be sure you don’t drive your car.
I'd bet your bearings are toast since you kept driving like that. You can fix it now and drive the car to a shop, or have your engine seize or throw a rod and have to pay for a tow.
I'd buy a complete used engine (6.0 time!), a long block, or short block. It should only take a day or 2 for a shop to swap it out. A rebuild is a slow process. I wouldn't just slap a pump in because there is probably other damage at this point. You may drop $800 to change the pump and spin a bearing or throw a rod a month later. It'll cost more to drop the engine, but you're better off having the bearings checked.
I'd buy a complete used engine (6.0 time!), a long block, or short block. It should only take a day or 2 for a shop to swap it out. A rebuild is a slow process. I wouldn't just slap a pump in because there is probably other damage at this point. You may drop $800 to change the pump and spin a bearing or throw a rod a month later. It'll cost more to drop the engine, but you're better off having the bearings checked.
Last edited by Greed4Speed; Jan 26, 2012 at 07:06 AM.
I'd bet your bearings are toast since you kept driving like that. You can fix it now and drive the car to a shop, or have your engine seize or throw a rod and have to pay for a tow.
I'd buy a complete used engine (6.0 time!), a long block, or short block. It should only take a day or 2 for a shop to swap it out. A rebuild is a slow process. I wouldn't just slap a pump in because there is probably other damage at this point. You may drop $800 to change the pump and spin a bearing or throw a rod a month later. It'll cost more to drop the engine, but you're better off having the bearings checked.
I'd buy a complete used engine (6.0 time!), a long block, or short block. It should only take a day or 2 for a shop to swap it out. A rebuild is a slow process. I wouldn't just slap a pump in because there is probably other damage at this point. You may drop $800 to change the pump and spin a bearing or throw a rod a month later. It'll cost more to drop the engine, but you're better off having the bearings checked.
I agree with this if you can afford it.
Melling oil pump was around $150, plus oil pressure switch was between 40 to 60 bucks, can't remember. I bought the parts myself and took it to my mechanic who charged me $150. Worth it if you ask me. I had no time to do it myself having to work and all.
Even more reason to do it right the first time. It would suck to pay $800 only to lose the engine anyway and have to pay for $1500 for R&R and how ever much you can find a running or rebuilt engine for on top of the $800 worth of labor you just lost. Unless you just like to gamble. 
Honestly though, a cam change is about $500 and they can swap oil pumps then so I'd actually say a pump swap should be around $650 with pump. Less if you run a stock repalcement. $800 is a bit steep.
A cheap daily driver may be the best move though.
Honestly though, a cam change is about $500 and they can swap oil pumps then so I'd actually say a pump swap should be around $650 with pump. Less if you run a stock repalcement. $800 is a bit steep.
A cheap daily driver may be the best move though.
Last edited by Greed4Speed; Jan 26, 2012 at 09:11 AM.
Even more reason to do it right the first time. It would suck to pay $800 only to lose the engine anyway and have to pay for $1500 for R&R and how ever much you can find a running or rebuilt engine for on top of the $800 worth of labor you just lost. Unless you just like to gamble.
Honestly though, a cam change is about $500 and they can swap oil pumps then so I'd actually say a pump swap should be around $650 with pump. Less if you run a stock repalcement. $800 is a bit steep.
A cheap daily driver may be the best move though.
Honestly though, a cam change is about $500 and they can swap oil pumps then so I'd actually say a pump swap should be around $650 with pump. Less if you run a stock repalcement. $800 is a bit steep.
A cheap daily driver may be the best move though.
I agree that it would suck to pay 800 and have the engine fail and there is a good possibility that it could and will happen.
Personally I would either change the pump myself (only cost a 100 bucks or so) and drive it till it breaks or park it till I have enough to put the motor I want in it.
Who knows you might be able to sell it and break it off into someone elses ***. I dont agree with this but people do it.
