Anyone familiar with this issue?
01-25-2012, 06:23 PM
#1
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Anyone familiar with this issue? So here is the story guys I have been noticing my oil gauge gradually move to zero from the middle(40) on my TA then as I drive it go to zero and the car won't run anymore I turn it on and the idle is super rough and the check gauges lights turns on and the oil is bounces up and down on zero then when I apply the breaks to put it in drive it turns off. I then let it sit for a couple hours and when I turn it on its fine and then as I drive the problem repeats. 
I checked my oil and I have plenty and after an oil change it still does it.
Any idea on what can be the problem??:bang
I checked my oil and I have plenty and after an oil change it still does it.Any idea on what can be the problem??:bang
01-25-2012, 06:38 PM
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So here is the story guys I have been noticing my oil gauge gradually move to zero from the middle(40) on my TA then as I drive it go to zero and the car won't run anymore I turn it on and the idle is super rough and the check gauges lights turns on and the oil is bounces up and down on zero then when I apply the breaks to put it in drive it turns off. I then let it sit for a couple hours and when I turn it on its fine and then as I drive the problem repeats. I checked my oil and I have plenty and after an oil change it still does it.
Any idea on what can be the problem??:bang
I checked my oil and I have plenty and after an oil change it still does it.Any idea on what can be the problem??:bang
Just a guess if you still have oil and no pressure it would be a oil pump issue.
If you keep driving it you are going to lock that SOB up if you haven't already done major damage.
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01-26-2012, 06:58 AM
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Now let’s go over the math on this.
more parts and labor to fix = costs more money
so called "oil pump" labor and cost = cheap as hell for the situation you’re in.
I would say start walking, get a bicycle, ride the bus, or rent a car. It really doesn't matter but be sure you don’t drive your car.
01-26-2012, 07:01 AM
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I'd bet your bearings are toast since you kept driving like that. You can fix it now and drive the car to a shop, or have your engine seize or throw a rod and have to pay for a tow.
I'd buy a complete used engine (6.0 time!), a long block, or short block. It should only take a day or 2 for a shop to swap it out. A rebuild is a slow process. I wouldn't just slap a pump in because there is probably other damage at this point. You may drop $800 to change the pump and spin a bearing or throw a rod a month later. It'll cost more to drop the engine, but you're better off having the bearings checked.
I'd buy a complete used engine (6.0 time!), a long block, or short block. It should only take a day or 2 for a shop to swap it out. A rebuild is a slow process. I wouldn't just slap a pump in because there is probably other damage at this point. You may drop $800 to change the pump and spin a bearing or throw a rod a month later. It'll cost more to drop the engine, but you're better off having the bearings checked.
Last edited by Greed4Speed; 01-26-2012 at 07:06 AM.
01-26-2012, 07:36 AM
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I'd bet your bearings are toast since you kept driving like that. You can fix it now and drive the car to a shop, or have your engine seize or throw a rod and have to pay for a tow.
I'd buy a complete used engine (6.0 time!), a long block, or short block. It should only take a day or 2 for a shop to swap it out. A rebuild is a slow process. I wouldn't just slap a pump in because there is probably other damage at this point. You may drop $800 to change the pump and spin a bearing or throw a rod a month later. It'll cost more to drop the engine, but you're better off having the bearings checked.
I'd buy a complete used engine (6.0 time!), a long block, or short block. It should only take a day or 2 for a shop to swap it out. A rebuild is a slow process. I wouldn't just slap a pump in because there is probably other damage at this point. You may drop $800 to change the pump and spin a bearing or throw a rod a month later. It'll cost more to drop the engine, but you're better off having the bearings checked.
I agree with this if you can afford it.
01-26-2012, 08:24 AM
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Melling oil pump was around $150, plus oil pressure switch was between 40 to 60 bucks, can't remember. I bought the parts myself and took it to my mechanic who charged me $150. Worth it if you ask me. I had no time to do it myself having to work and all.
01-26-2012, 09:04 AM
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Even more reason to do it right the first time. It would suck to pay $800 only to lose the engine anyway and have to pay for $1500 for R&R and how ever much you can find a running or rebuilt engine for on top of the $800 worth of labor you just lost. Unless you just like to gamble. 
Honestly though, a cam change is about $500 and they can swap oil pumps then so I'd actually say a pump swap should be around $650 with pump. Less if you run a stock repalcement. $800 is a bit steep.
A cheap daily driver may be the best move though.
Honestly though, a cam change is about $500 and they can swap oil pumps then so I'd actually say a pump swap should be around $650 with pump. Less if you run a stock repalcement. $800 is a bit steep.
A cheap daily driver may be the best move though.
Last edited by Greed4Speed; 01-26-2012 at 09:11 AM.
01-26-2012, 02:45 PM
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Even more reason to do it right the first time. It would suck to pay $800 only to lose the engine anyway and have to pay for $1500 for R&R and how ever much you can find a running or rebuilt engine for on top of the $800 worth of labor you just lost. Unless you just like to gamble.
Honestly though, a cam change is about $500 and they can swap oil pumps then so I'd actually say a pump swap should be around $650 with pump. Less if you run a stock repalcement. $800 is a bit steep.
A cheap daily driver may be the best move though.
Honestly though, a cam change is about $500 and they can swap oil pumps then so I'd actually say a pump swap should be around $650 with pump. Less if you run a stock repalcement. $800 is a bit steep.
A cheap daily driver may be the best move though.
I agree that it would suck to pay 800 and have the engine fail and there is a good possibility that it could and will happen.
Personally I would either change the pump myself (only cost a 100 bucks or so) and drive it till it breaks or park it till I have enough to put the motor I want in it.
Who knows you might be able to sell it and break it off into someone elses ***. I dont agree with this but people do it.
