Car Cutting Off
Fuel pump is out. As mentioned earlier the return line frays at the pump and you lose all line pressure
If you have a 99+ the pump and assembly are $129
For a 98 you will be screwed paying $400 at oreilleys
If you don't have a check engine light it is your fuel pump
If you have a 99+ the pump and assembly are $129
For a 98 you will be screwed paying $400 at oreilleys
If you don't have a check engine light it is your fuel pump
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Tx
Went outside to see about the pressure in the lines, but I tried starting the car first. Started right up, ran fine. Exhaust smells a little rich. Idled for a bit. No problems. Turned it off, started it again. No issues. Straightened it out in the parking spot.
Let it idle, few free revs, no stumbling or anything. Didn't want to risk driving around the parking lot in case it decided to act up.
Bah. Starting to think the ICM. Maybe when it gets hot, it acts stupid. That sounds logical, right?
Let it idle, few free revs, no stumbling or anything. Didn't want to risk driving around the parking lot in case it decided to act up.
Bah. Starting to think the ICM. Maybe when it gets hot, it acts stupid. That sounds logical, right?
I take back my diagnosis. All your talk about thinking the car was out of gas kind of sent everyone that direction for the fuel pump
Crank position sensor faulty. These can cause the exact symptoms you are describing. If the connector is corroded and the car can intermittently get signal it would not trigger the check engine light but will cause the car to die and not start for a while
I hate telling people to throw parts at a car but truth is if you take it to a shop that's exactly what they are going to do and charge you to do it
The crank position sensor is directly behind the alternator. You will have to remove the alternator to replace it
Next suggestion would be to go ahead and replace the fuel pump and sending unit if the crank sensor doesn't fix your problem
Crank position sensor faulty. These can cause the exact symptoms you are describing. If the connector is corroded and the car can intermittently get signal it would not trigger the check engine light but will cause the car to die and not start for a while
I hate telling people to throw parts at a car but truth is if you take it to a shop that's exactly what they are going to do and charge you to do it
The crank position sensor is directly behind the alternator. You will have to remove the alternator to replace it
Next suggestion would be to go ahead and replace the fuel pump and sending unit if the crank sensor doesn't fix your problem
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Tx
Crank Position Sensor is a $33 part from VatoZone. Cheaper than a pump or ICM, that's for sure.
Although, location might be different. This is on a 3.8L, so I think I read it's behind the crank pulley?
You don't think it might be the ICM?
Although, location might be different. This is on a 3.8L, so I think I read it's behind the crank pulley?
You don't think it might be the ICM?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Tx
Yeah, that'd be great, but it's easier said than done.
HPTuner's requires credits that most people don't have for my year and engine. That's at least $100 right there.
A shop's diagnostics fee would run me less, generally.
HPTuner's requires credits that most people don't have for my year and engine. That's at least $100 right there.
A shop's diagnostics fee would run me less, generally.
HP Tuners does not require credits to scan a car.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Tx
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Tx
So I was outside looking for the cranshaft position sensor... with no luck.
While I was out there, I turned the car on to see if I could narrow down when it starts acting up. Let it idle for about 15 minutes, with some small 2k free revs after it started warming up. Had A/C blowing as well.
After the temp gauge on the dash reached about 190ish (I guess, about operating temp) it started to bog and die, it started to die, then catch itself and rev high (about 1500-2000 rpms according to gauge) then it'd bog out again. It tried to save itself maybe twice before it just completely turned off. I waited a second, turned the key, heard the pump prime, attempted to start, with it taking a long crank, catching and then immediately dying. Just as it did the other day.
While I was out there, I turned the car on to see if I could narrow down when it starts acting up. Let it idle for about 15 minutes, with some small 2k free revs after it started warming up. Had A/C blowing as well.
After the temp gauge on the dash reached about 190ish (I guess, about operating temp) it started to bog and die, it started to die, then catch itself and rev high (about 1500-2000 rpms according to gauge) then it'd bog out again. It tried to save itself maybe twice before it just completely turned off. I waited a second, turned the key, heard the pump prime, attempted to start, with it taking a long crank, catching and then immediately dying. Just as it did the other day.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Tx
For ***** and giggles I unplugged my MAF-
I unclipped the connector and tried to start the car. It struggled at first but idled. I turned it off, plugged in the connector and tried to start it again. This time it started then died. Unplugged connector once more and started the car. Let it idle until it got to the temp it was at earlier when it died. It surpassed that mark. However, it smells like it's running even more rich, and kind of chokes on itself if I rev it. I assume this is because the PCM is telling it to pour more gas due to the lack of MAF readings, yes?
Through a code, low input from MAF, lulz.
I took out the sensor, it doesn't look black or 'fuzzy' (I read that's how a dirty MAF looks). However, I'll buy some cleaner anyway. So does this rule out the ICM (or everything else for that matter) completely?
Reman'd MAF sensor from VatoZone is going to run me $120. New is $140. Bah. Still easier to remove/replace than ICM or Fuel Pump though...
I unclipped the connector and tried to start the car. It struggled at first but idled. I turned it off, plugged in the connector and tried to start it again. This time it started then died. Unplugged connector once more and started the car. Let it idle until it got to the temp it was at earlier when it died. It surpassed that mark. However, it smells like it's running even more rich, and kind of chokes on itself if I rev it. I assume this is because the PCM is telling it to pour more gas due to the lack of MAF readings, yes?
Through a code, low input from MAF, lulz.
I took out the sensor, it doesn't look black or 'fuzzy' (I read that's how a dirty MAF looks). However, I'll buy some cleaner anyway. So does this rule out the ICM (or everything else for that matter) completely?
Reman'd MAF sensor from VatoZone is going to run me $120. New is $140. Bah. Still easier to remove/replace than ICM or Fuel Pump though...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Tx
Today I bought some MAF cleaner. I sprayed the sucker real good. Didn't break anything though (I kept checking). Plugged it back in, started it up, and the car sounded super choppy/lopey, like a huge cam was in it. Shut it off, unplugged the connector going to the MAF, and started the car, and it fired right up, and idled just fine. Turned it back off, plugged in MAF and tried again, and it sounded epicly choppy/cam like again.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Tx
That's what I'm leaning towards. Not sure how I feel about dropping the $130+ on a new one. Have a friend of mine sending me one he's had in storage for awhile. We'll see if that helps. Too bad it's going to take a week or so.
My first thought was the vats was bad, but if your saying it runs till up to temp then has a problem, I don't think vats anymore.
What about o2 sensors? I have had bad o2s before with no cel. Acted like you stated in the OP, but eventually went to "limp mode" and threw a code.
Have you tried leaving Maf unplugged and letting it get to operating temp and seeing if it will die? This could eliminate maf... Just trying to think of things you could do while waiting
What about o2 sensors? I have had bad o2s before with no cel. Acted like you stated in the OP, but eventually went to "limp mode" and threw a code.
Have you tried leaving Maf unplugged and letting it get to operating temp and seeing if it will die? This could eliminate maf... Just trying to think of things you could do while waiting
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio, Tx
My first thought was the vats was bad, but if your saying it runs till up to temp then has a problem, I don't think vats anymore.
What about o2 sensors? I have had bad o2s before with no cel. Acted like you stated in the OP, but eventually went to "limp mode" and threw a code.
Have you tried leaving Maf unplugged and letting it get to operating temp and seeing if it will die? This could eliminate maf... Just trying to think of things you could do while waiting
What about o2 sensors? I have had bad o2s before with no cel. Acted like you stated in the OP, but eventually went to "limp mode" and threw a code.
Have you tried leaving Maf unplugged and letting it get to operating temp and seeing if it will die? This could eliminate maf... Just trying to think of things you could do while waiting