fair price for complete pullouts?
fair price for complete pullouts? Planning stages of swapping an LS/auto into a mustang....
What are going prices for various gen3 auto pullouts with engine, accessories, harness, and 4l60e ?
How much for similar gen4 ?
Is there a cheaper way of buying for these swaps?
FWIW I plan to do a mild motor build and have the auto beefed up for the extra power. Ideally using an aluminum block but if they really cost a few grand more I'll deal with the extra nose weight.
What are going prices for various gen3 auto pullouts with engine, accessories, harness, and 4l60e ?
How much for similar gen4 ?
Is there a cheaper way of buying for these swaps?
FWIW I plan to do a mild motor build and have the auto beefed up for the extra power. Ideally using an aluminum block but if they really cost a few grand more I'll deal with the extra nose weight.
That's damn cheap. I recently sold one with unknown mileage for $650. A guy I work with just bought a complete 99Z pullout with 140k for $2800. We are swapping his third gen so he also bought the fuel tank/pump for $125.
Originally Posted by codyvette
That's damn cheap. I recently sold one with unknown mileage for $650. A guy I work with just bought a complete 99Z pullout with 140k for $2800. We are swapping his third gen so he also bought the fuel tank/pump for $125.
My brother just dropped $1700 for a 140K mile LQ9 pullout (no trans). Missing the starter but otherwise complete. But we also managed to get the guy to deliver it to my driveway for that price, so he was happy.
Originally Posted by Mr. Hyde
My brother just dropped $1700 for a 140K mile LQ9 pullout (no trans). Missing the starter but otherwise complete. But we also managed to get the guy to deliver it to my driveway for that price, so he was happy.
My prices I pay are usually 4-500$ for a gen 3 4.8/5.3. 800-1100 for the gen 3 6.0. The gen 4 5.3 are usually 6-800. Then the LY6 6.0 are anywhere from 1100$ from LKQ up to 1800$ with low miles. But you gotta shop around.
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Planning stages of swapping an LS/auto into a mustang....
What are going prices for various gen3 auto pullouts with engine, accessories, harness, and 4l60e ?
How much for similar gen4 ?
Is there a cheaper way of buying for these swaps?
FWIW I plan to do a mild motor build and have the auto beefed up for the extra power. Ideally using an aluminum block but if they really cost a few grand more I'll deal with the extra nose weight.
What are going prices for various gen3 auto pullouts with engine, accessories, harness, and 4l60e ?
How much for similar gen4 ?
Is there a cheaper way of buying for these swaps?
FWIW I plan to do a mild motor build and have the auto beefed up for the extra power. Ideally using an aluminum block but if they really cost a few grand more I'll deal with the extra nose weight.
For a grand I'd deal with the nose weight. Say for something apples to apples like iron 6.0 vs LS2 or iron 5.3 vs alum 5.3, the iron are far easier to find for sure. I can find overpriced LS1 all day lol
Side note, do people not understand that LS1 can't be rebuilt over and over like iron blocks and SBC? "Just a cracked liner so I'm asking $3,000" seems common on sale ads.
Side note, do people not understand that LS1 can't be rebuilt over and over like iron blocks and SBC? "Just a cracked liner so I'm asking $3,000" seems common on sale ads.
For a grand I'd deal with the nose weight. Say for something apples to apples like iron 6.0 vs LS2 or iron 5.3 vs alum 5.3, the iron are far easier to find for sure. I can find overpriced LS1 all day lol
Side note, do people not understand that LS1 can't be rebuilt over and over like iron blocks and SBC? "Just a cracked liner so I'm asking $3,000" seems common on sale ads.
Side note, do people not understand that LS1 can't be rebuilt over and over like iron blocks and SBC? "Just a cracked liner so I'm asking $3,000" seems common on sale ads.
As far as the weight, it's something like 75-80 pounds or so weight difference, for most people that isn't enough to spend the extra money. I would rather have steel anyway, unless weight was a really big focal point of the build.
Yes there is a lot of that, stupid people are allowed to post too, unfortunately lol.
People still think LS1's are worth 3k and there are people out there that still actually buy them. I've met a couple.
Yeah and to be honest, it's likely to be more than a 1k difference if you're comparing to a 5.3. If you compare to a LQ9 vs a LS1 then you'd be closer to the 1k spread. Of course this is really subjective.
As far as the weight, it's something like 75-80 pounds or so weight difference, for most people that isn't enough to spend the extra money. I would rather have steel anyway, unless weight was a really big focal point of the build.
Yes there is a lot of that, stupid people are allowed to post too, unfortunately lol.
People still think LS1's are worth 3k and there are people out there that still actually buy them. I've met a couple.
As far as the weight, it's something like 75-80 pounds or so weight difference, for most people that isn't enough to spend the extra money. I would rather have steel anyway, unless weight was a really big focal point of the build.
Yes there is a lot of that, stupid people are allowed to post too, unfortunately lol.
People still think LS1's are worth 3k and there are people out there that still actually buy them. I've met a couple.
To me it's a no brainer to go aluminum, look at the price for a tubular front end and you still won't take off the same amount of weight.
100lbs. For the block. The crank in a 5.3 is also heavier do to lack of gun drilling. That's rotating weight. There is also compression gains with the LS VS LM,LQ. There is no best only best for the application. When I swap anything car/race, I try like hell to source an LS1TECH. When I swap a truck, jeep, etc. We'll go with whichever comes along.
I believe it's 110 pounds. There's a thread someone on here where a guy placed a 6.0 iron on a scale and same day/same scale placed an LS1 I believe.
To me it's a no brainer to go aluminum, look at the price for a tubular front end and you still won't take off the same amount of weight.
To me it's a no brainer to go aluminum, look at the price for a tubular front end and you still won't take off the same amount of weight.
I understand and agree with what you said about the weight savings vs a tubular front end. But if you are going for a budget build then neither the aluminum block or tubular front end will be part of the build lol.
You have to look at fuel cost, vehicle wear and tear, and of course it all depends on what your time is worth to you. My brother isn't the most patient person, so that was a factor as well. None of these magic $1000 LQ motors were available while he searched. Not everyone gets the buddy deal, either.