Slave Cylinder Install
Slave Cylinder Install Well, the slave cylinder decided that it no longer wants to be my friend and has asked to come out. So, after the turkey has properly digested, I will be exchanging the old with a new slave cylinder.
Question: Do I need to bleed the new slave, or is it already pre-bled from the factory? What about when I reconnect the hose? Any bleeding involved (besides my knuckles and arms)?
Also, from looking at the pictures on installuniversity.com, it appears that I don't need to fully remove the transmission; only move it back about 3-4 inches. Is that correct?
Anything else I should be worried about? Is it wise to fully remove the console and shifter first, or can you unbolt the shifter directly from underneath?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks - and Happy Thanksgiving!!
brian
Question: Do I need to bleed the new slave, or is it already pre-bled from the factory? What about when I reconnect the hose? Any bleeding involved (besides my knuckles and arms)?
Also, from looking at the pictures on installuniversity.com, it appears that I don't need to fully remove the transmission; only move it back about 3-4 inches. Is that correct?
Anything else I should be worried about? Is it wise to fully remove the console and shifter first, or can you unbolt the shifter directly from underneath?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks - and Happy Thanksgiving!!
brian
Yes you do have to pull the transmision all the way out so that you can clear the imput shaft and swap slaves. The shifter has to be unbolted from the top therefore the console will be one of the first things off.
How is your clutch doing while your down there it would only add 30 mins tops to swap that out.
How is your clutch doing while your down there it would only add 30 mins tops to swap that out.
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remove all the console and ****, when you get to the trans installuniv. says you can just pull the trans back and bolt it back up but thats a tight fit. when your done you can bleed the whole system from there. the bleeder valve is at the top of the trans at about 10 o'clock. but if you follow that websites instructions you should be fine.
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
make sure you have at least 24" worth of extensions, w/ some of them being wobble heads and/or swivel u-joints lol. 3/8 stuff will work fine.
Finally got it out last night. Fun stuff, for sure.
Thanks for the input.
Brian
Originally Posted by blkbeaZ28
Yes you do have to pull the transmision all the way out so that you can clear the imput shaft and swap slaves. The shifter has to be unbolted from the top therefore the console will be one of the first things off.
How is your clutch doing while your down there it would only add 30 mins tops to swap that out.
How is your clutch doing while your down there it would only add 30 mins tops to swap that out.
The clutch is a Z06 replaced under warranty two years ago. I wouldn't have minded putting a new one in, but the clutch has been very good with no slipping and more importantly, the cheapest I found the Z06 clutch kit was $299 and money is tight right now. Just have to roll the dice on the clutch lasting a little while longer.
Thanks!
