Window Motors....
Window Motors.... Well, it's that time i guess, time for the window motor to go out, at least i think its the window motor. Heres whats up:
The window will roll down fine but on the way up it will go a quarter inch and the die. There is no ticking or anything. Could it be something else? Any help would be awesome. If it helps, i just hit 105,000 miles.
Also, where can i get these cheap? For those of you that have done this before yourself, was it hard, did you fear for the life of your hand? My dad did one when i was really young and he doesnt want me to do it, he wants to have a shop to do it, but honestly, i feel that i can do it. I have two links on how to do this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Also how the hell do you get the turn signal to come out and off, cuz my pass one has been busted for a while. is it from the inside of the bumper? Where can i get some clear corners?
The window will roll down fine but on the way up it will go a quarter inch and the die. There is no ticking or anything. Could it be something else? Any help would be awesome. If it helps, i just hit 105,000 miles.
Also, where can i get these cheap? For those of you that have done this before yourself, was it hard, did you fear for the life of your hand? My dad did one when i was really young and he doesnt want me to do it, he wants to have a shop to do it, but honestly, i feel that i can do it. I have two links on how to do this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Also how the hell do you get the turn signal to come out and off, cuz my pass one has been busted for a while. is it from the inside of the bumper? Where can i get some clear corners?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Yes, it is your motor.
Motor : Autozone ($50)
Tools: Screwdriver, Drill (1/2" bit, and small bit 1/8" or smaller for the rivets), Small Wrenches, C-Clamp to hold the window up (I used 2x4 to hold it up).
I got some tips:
1. When drilling the 1/2" hole in your door, make sure you follow pics on the website. Measure twice, drill once. Also wear gloves. That fiberglass really gets into your skin and will itch for few days.
2. Don't cut the plastic cover, under the door panel, just peel it off.
3. For the little screws to install new motor, hopefully you have small hands. They were a pain to get in for me because there isn't that much space. I used a magnetic screwdriver to get them in.
It really wasn't too bad. Just take your time, and if it's pissing you off, take a break and start later.
Which writeups are you using. I saw few, but there was one that I really liked. I found it through search on here.
Motor : Autozone ($50)
Tools: Screwdriver, Drill (1/2" bit, and small bit 1/8" or smaller for the rivets), Small Wrenches, C-Clamp to hold the window up (I used 2x4 to hold it up).
I got some tips:
1. When drilling the 1/2" hole in your door, make sure you follow pics on the website. Measure twice, drill once. Also wear gloves. That fiberglass really gets into your skin and will itch for few days.
2. Don't cut the plastic cover, under the door panel, just peel it off.
3. For the little screws to install new motor, hopefully you have small hands. They were a pain to get in for me because there isn't that much space. I used a magnetic screwdriver to get them in.
It really wasn't too bad. Just take your time, and if it's pissing you off, take a break and start later.
Which writeups are you using. I saw few, but there was one that I really liked. I found it through search on here.
Originally Posted by Oskar_Z28
Yes, it is your motor.
Motor : Autozone ($50)
Tools: Screwdriver, Drill (1/2" bit, and small bit 1/8" or smaller for the rivets), Small Wrenches, C-Clamp to hold the window up (I used 2x4 to hold it up).
I got some tips:
1. When drilling the 1/2" hole in your door, make sure you follow pics on the website. Measure twice, drill once. Also wear gloves. That fiberglass really gets into your skin and will itch for few days.
2. Don't cut the plastic cover, under the door panel, just peel it off.
3. For the little screws to install new motor, hopefully you have small hands. They were a pain to get in for me because there isn't that much space. I used a magnetic screwdriver to get them in.
It really wasn't too bad. Just take your time, and if it's pissing you off, take a break and start later.
Which writeups are you using. I saw few, but there was one that I really liked. I found it through search on here.
Motor : Autozone ($50)
Tools: Screwdriver, Drill (1/2" bit, and small bit 1/8" or smaller for the rivets), Small Wrenches, C-Clamp to hold the window up (I used 2x4 to hold it up).
I got some tips:
1. When drilling the 1/2" hole in your door, make sure you follow pics on the website. Measure twice, drill once. Also wear gloves. That fiberglass really gets into your skin and will itch for few days.
2. Don't cut the plastic cover, under the door panel, just peel it off.
3. For the little screws to install new motor, hopefully you have small hands. They were a pain to get in for me because there isn't that much space. I used a magnetic screwdriver to get them in.
It really wasn't too bad. Just take your time, and if it's pissing you off, take a break and start later.
Which writeups are you using. I saw few, but there was one that I really liked. I found it through search on here.
There was one on here that i looked at and then there was shbox, i read both of them. and im pretty sure i got it down, but will have that handy. Thanks alot man, appreciate it.
3. For the little screws to install new motor, hopefully you have small hands. They were a pain to get in for me because there isn't that much space. I used a magnetic screwdriver to get them in.
Just a FYI for you, unless you like going back in there.
Originally Posted by shouldaboughttheZ
I bought my window motor at O'Reilly's and was about the same price. That was back in October. I spent another hour yesterday replacing those crappy screws that came with the new motor with better ones. I got the door panel off and took a look to find 2 were gone and the 3rd the nut was backing off. Go to Home Depot and get the #8 x 3/8" or 1/2" machine screws, they are $0.88. They are a little bigger than those crappy little ones they put with the motor.
Just a FYI for you, unless you like going back in there.
Just a FYI for you, unless you like going back in there.
Originally Posted by jdoyle
thanks, i heard some silicone lube really does wonders for rejuvenating them when they are slow. on the guide, weather stripping and some other places.
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On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Fort Worth, TX
Try this site- I just did mine and it helped a bunch-took me about 45 min.
Window Motor Replacement
Hope this helps
Window Motor Replacement
Hope this helps
Originally Posted by RamAirD98
Try this site- I just did mine and it helped a bunch-took me about 45 min.
Window Motor Replacement
Hope this helps
Window Motor Replacement
Hope this helps
Originally Posted by jdoyle
i got that one and the shbox link, thanks anyways dude, this seems pretty easy. everyone, i appreciate your help.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 700
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by Oskar_Z28
Yes, it is your motor.
1. When drilling the 1/2" hole in your door, make sure you follow pics on the website. Measure twice, drill once. Also wear gloves. That fiberglass really gets into your skin and will itch for few days.
1. When drilling the 1/2" hole in your door, make sure you follow pics on the website. Measure twice, drill once. Also wear gloves. That fiberglass really gets into your skin and will itch for few days.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 323
Likes: 0
From: Cypress, Tx
ahh, great! - and i did not even have to ask...
mine gave out about a week and a half ago, but i've just been to lazy to do anything about it...no i can get off my lazy a$$ and fix it.
thanks for the advise...
mine gave out about a week and a half ago, but i've just been to lazy to do anything about it...no i can get off my lazy a$$ and fix it.
thanks for the advise...
Originally Posted by stang killer
Hell, I just drilled a bigger hole so I can get at thoes screws better and used lock tite on em. No problems so far.
That's what I did on my wife's B4C when hers went out a month or so ago. I drilled a good sized hole for the "top" screw so I could just use a straight driver on it. A lot easier than when I did mine on the '94. I spent a lot of extra time finaggeling with it just because I didn't want to drill a lot of the SMC out. This time around I was like "screw that, I want it to be easier".
Originally Posted by Z28 Z
so the ones bought at autozone work just fine?