make my own adj torque arm?
10-11-2005, 07:33 PM
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make my own adj torque arm? I need to get an adj TA but low on funds right now, so I was thinking about trying to fab one up myself. After looking at some pictures of the chassis mounted ones, it seems like a fairly simple design.
for example
http://www.umiperformance.com/2200.aspx
Where can I get those poly bushings, and the outer cylinders that encase the bushings? with zerk fittings already in there?
what about the spherical rod endings to make it adjustable?
what do you guys think? I have a welder and Im pretty sure if I can get the right pieces (above) I can build something that will work. May have to do some trial error but I think it would be cheaper than $350 and be a fun project.
for example
http://www.umiperformance.com/2200.aspx
Where can I get those poly bushings, and the outer cylinders that encase the bushings? with zerk fittings already in there?
what about the spherical rod endings to make it adjustable?
what do you guys think? I have a welder and Im pretty sure if I can get the right pieces (above) I can build something that will work. May have to do some trial error but I think it would be cheaper than $350 and be a fun project.
10-11-2005, 09:48 PM
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I've been considering building a non-adjustable panhard and LCA's. Just need to find some and take some measurements. Shouldn't be too hard. Keep me posted on your progress.
10-11-2005, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
Good luck. It has taken me 7 years and numerous broken pieces to get one that worked. The R&D is worth the money.
10-11-2005, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepersilverado
made this one for under 100$
please share some info about building it
thanks for the pics
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10-11-2005, 10:24 PM
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well we got lucky i had some stuff laying around like the end pieces you weld into the tubing. we got the rod links or what ever you call them from i believe it was bmr. the front mounting was kind of experimental. we built it to go straight only. also used a broken tq arm to get a general layout. some things i would of changed is to have a thinner wall tubing and would of made a slot for the lower bolt that is adjustable and attches to the rear end. we made a cross bar that was welded to the subframes and attached to the front of the torque arm. also would of like to tig it but i only have a mig and stick.
10-12-2005, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by sleepersilverado
10-4 it is on johns car it is way over done though. and wtf is a track pack?
track pack is a type of bmr torque arm if im not mistaken
10-12-2005, 04:07 PM
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sleepersilverado, what do you mean you built the front to go "straight only"?
I found the basic materials for the BMR or UMI to be
1.250” x 0.120” DOM Seamless Steel Tubing
Rear Mounting Plates use 3/8" / 0.375” Thick Mild Steel
Rear Mounts feature Solid QA1 ¾” Rod Ends and are attached using Grade 8
Hardware
0.5” thick mild steel for the brackets that attach to the chassis mounting area
0.250” thick mild steel mounting pivot plates (on each size of front bushings)
Front Cross Member uses 0.120” x 2.000” Rectangular Tubing (UMI one)
crossbrace is made from 1-5/8" x .120" DOM tubing (BMR)
so MADMAN can I buy
(2) poly bushings and the outer metal cylinders that encase the bushings, with zerk fittings already on if possible (greasable bushings), pretty much ready to weld on
adjustable "Solid QA1 ¾” Rod Ends" that I need to set up the rear, like what can be pictured here
http://www.umiperformance.com/images/2200c.jpg
let me know please
I found the basic materials for the BMR or UMI to be
1.250” x 0.120” DOM Seamless Steel Tubing
Rear Mounting Plates use 3/8" / 0.375” Thick Mild Steel
Rear Mounts feature Solid QA1 ¾” Rod Ends and are attached using Grade 8
Hardware
0.5” thick mild steel for the brackets that attach to the chassis mounting area
0.250” thick mild steel mounting pivot plates (on each size of front bushings)
Front Cross Member uses 0.120” x 2.000” Rectangular Tubing (UMI one)
crossbrace is made from 1-5/8" x .120" DOM tubing (BMR)
so MADMAN can I buy
(2) poly bushings and the outer metal cylinders that encase the bushings, with zerk fittings already on if possible (greasable bushings), pretty much ready to weld on
adjustable "Solid QA1 ¾” Rod Ends" that I need to set up the rear, like what can be pictured here
http://www.umiperformance.com/images/2200c.jpg
let me know please
10-12-2005, 06:46 PM
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there is no shackle on the front just a polly bushing. we did not play with it much but i worked ok at the track. i dont know if we added a shackle if it would perform better? like i say we did not play with it much.
i did not know all the specs we just went and fot some tubbing and started building.
i did not know all the specs we just went and fot some tubbing and started building.
10-12-2005, 06:54 PM
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so just 1 pivot point up front instead of 2 right? is it a circular poly bushing or one like the stock set up which would allow some linear motion
anybody know how this affect it, does it bind with no forward motion or what
Im not to sure how the TA moves exactly but I thought it needed to move forward as well, so how neccesary is it to have 2 pivot points?
anybody know how this affect it, does it bind with no forward motion or what
Im not to sure how the TA moves exactly but I thought it needed to move forward as well, so how neccesary is it to have 2 pivot points?
10-12-2005, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by MADMAN
Damn this feels like 1997. Drop the front urethane bushing and put a HEIM joint in. You will never want to have solid rear joints..
but what do you mean about solid rear joints?
and do you have those pieces I can buy from you?