ls1jabroni

Okay, so I have a sticky clutch and tried looking at JonB's write up on ways to get by this issue:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/742741-sticking-clutch-pedal-write-up.html

This is what I have done...
A)Brand new clutch master cylinder (GM Dealership)
B)Drill mod has been done to the master cylinder
C)Brand new slave cylinder (GM Dealership)
D)Wrapped the the clutch line with heat shield
E)Using Dot 5 Clutch Fluid
F)Blead the car conventionally and with the pressure bleeder

REV 1st, shift to 2nd(smooth shift), REV, shift to 3rd(I get locked out of 3rd gear, and the pedal is completely stuck to the ground).

Therefore, the only thing left I think would be causing this is the Clutch & Pressure Plate.

I just had a buddy of mine speak to a highly recognized preformance shop that specilizes in Camaros/Corvettes. He was told that it's just the way those cars work and it doesn't sounds like a clutch issue. I was thinking about replacing the clutch with a LS7, however they said I would be wasting my time & money because I would still have the sticky clutch problem.

OKAY, if you can't get on the car, what the hell is the point of having it?!

Someone PLEASE help me out. I really have no direction to turn, and I don't want to drop my tranny again and replace any more **** until I know that replacing/added/adjusting/etc... will actually get the job done and make that clutch not stick.

Quick Mods I have on my car... Longtube Headers, Exhaust, Ported TB, B&M shifter. Mostly bolt on's. However, nothing that really has to do with the hydrolics of the clutch.

Sprayed1998

iTrader: (10)

Damn, it seems like you have already exhausted all the possible fixes, id look into bleeding it again.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Wow. I was going to suggest doing the drill mod and if that doesn't work, to replace the entire clutch master, but you've already done that. The next thing would be to change to a different fluid, but you've already done that. Are you sure you're bleeding it right? Sometimes it takes a LONG time.

Ceissus

iTrader: (4)

uh..../scratches head.

i had this problem and master cylinder swap did the trick.

weird man, weird....

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Three words... slave cylinder spacer

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

If you are on a stock clutch, that IS your problem. The fingers on the stock clutch flatten out at high rpm and it won't let you shift. I didn't do a drill mod, bleed the clutch or anything when I swapped to a RAM, the problem just went away.

xBROKEx

iTrader: (7)

i have the same issue but i can still shift untill i let off the throttle then i have to pump the clutch to get it back into a geat. guessill try the drill mod

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Get an LS7 kit and a 1/8" Spacer behind your slave, and wave byebye to your clutch problems.

xBROKEx

iTrader: (7)

where do you get those at

The PAT WS6

iTrader: (14)

ur clutch is bad replace it trust me ive been throught it all.... the drill mod is bullshit, dont ever waste ur time on it again.

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

SDPC has the LS7 Clutch/PP/Flywheel kit for $399 last I checked. The spacer is easily homemade, but I think there are sponsors that sell it.

Oh... a +1 on the drill mod being bs. I've never done the drill mod, and I've been clutch problem free for about 1 1/2 years. That spacer made all the difference in the world.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

The drill mod may be BS, I can't say for sure. When my car was a 6 speed, I changed the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, slave, and clutch master all at the same time. I use a SPEC stage 3, GM slave, and Mcelod clutch master.

5w20

iTrader: (21)

100% truth

slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, drill mod, fluid change IS NOT THE CURE.

jdoyle

iTrader: (27)

just my 2 cents, but i would rather use oreillys brand dot 3 fluid than dot 5 fluid.