Lazy Clutch Pedal.. Need Help.
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11-18-2007, 01:53 AM
#22
Launching!
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Yeah. I called a couple of places just to get quotes and they are all ridiculous.. Maybe because I'm an 18yr old male, haha. Yeah that might be it. I'd rather just ride around without insurance lol.
11-18-2007, 02:04 AM
#23
Launching!
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jmdale1824.. When you said to get a slave spacer from Speed Inc., Is that the same thing as a slave shim? Just wondering.. Trying to add everything up just to get a figure to see how much I'm going to be throwing out.
11-18-2007, 02:19 AM
#24
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Yeah, it's the same as a shim. Don't forget to figure in another $20 for a pilot bearing while you're in there. And if you're over 100k miles... you may want to change the master cylinder, but it's just as easy to get to without pulling the tranny, so no worries if you don't.
11-18-2007, 02:33 AM
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Yeah, you could just wait until you need to change the clutch. Basically, the stock clutches suck, the stock hydraulics suck (but they were upgraded in 2001), and it's going to have that sticking problem.
It'll work fine otherwise until you have the cash to uprgrade it properly.
There's a lot of choices in clutches, but the LS7 is probably the best choice for a street driven, mildly modified LSx car. Aftermarket clutches typically have stiffer pedal feel, harsher engagement, a much shorter lifespan, and are usually more expensive. The LS7 was built to hold the 505 hp of the C6 Z06 and convenienty bolts right into f-bodies (when you get the flywheel that's included in the SDPC kit). It has a light pedal feel (lighter than stock if I remember correctly) and it grabs like a SOB!
It'll work fine otherwise until you have the cash to uprgrade it properly.
There's a lot of choices in clutches, but the LS7 is probably the best choice for a street driven, mildly modified LSx car. Aftermarket clutches typically have stiffer pedal feel, harsher engagement, a much shorter lifespan, and are usually more expensive. The LS7 was built to hold the 505 hp of the C6 Z06 and convenienty bolts right into f-bodies (when you get the flywheel that's included in the SDPC kit). It has a light pedal feel (lighter than stock if I remember correctly) and it grabs like a SOB!
11-18-2007, 11:01 AM
#27
Launching!
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Yeah well after what happened to my car lastnight I think I'm just going to get that LS7 clutch kit or whatever. I was cruising around lastnight and my car was shifting great and everything but the pressure plate was acting up. The rpm's would fly up whenever I would let off the gas or try and make a complete stop. I brought it home right after that cause I thought I messed it up pretty bad. Anyways, It stopped acting up on the way home but I haven't driven it since.
11-18-2007, 11:26 AM
#28
Launching!
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Yeah, you could just wait until you need to change the clutch. Basically, the stock clutches suck, the stock hydraulics suck (but they were upgraded in 2001), and it's going to have that sticking problem.
It'll work fine otherwise until you have the cash to uprgrade it properly.
There's a lot of choices in clutches, but the LS7 is probably the best choice for a street driven, mildly modified LSx car. Aftermarket clutches typically have stiffer pedal feel, harsher engagement, a much shorter lifespan, and are usually more expensive. The LS7 was built to hold the 505 hp of the C6 Z06 and convenienty bolts right into f-bodies (when you get the flywheel that's included in the SDPC kit). It has a light pedal feel (lighter than stock if I remember correctly) and it grabs like a SOB!
It'll work fine otherwise until you have the cash to uprgrade it properly.
There's a lot of choices in clutches, but the LS7 is probably the best choice for a street driven, mildly modified LSx car. Aftermarket clutches typically have stiffer pedal feel, harsher engagement, a much shorter lifespan, and are usually more expensive. The LS7 was built to hold the 505 hp of the C6 Z06 and convenienty bolts right into f-bodies (when you get the flywheel that's included in the SDPC kit). It has a light pedal feel (lighter than stock if I remember correctly) and it grabs like a SOB!
11-18-2007, 05:00 PM
#29
Launching!
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So I thought about it.. And I'm thinking about ordering this either this coming Friday or Saturday. http://www.sdparts.com/product/SDLS7...cFlywheel.aspx Let me know what ya'll think.
11-18-2007, 05:15 PM
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Yep, that's the one. Just don't forget the other stuff (slave cyl., slave shim, and pilot bearing (I get mine from the dealer). The shim is optional, but I HIGHLY recommend it.
You'll also need to get a clutch line removal tool. Autozone has them, but it's listed in their system as a special tool for Ford hydaulic clutches. It's like $6, and refundable if you bring it back. I kept it so I'll have it in the future.
A nice tranny jack will really help out, but I've never had one. I just put the front of the car on ramps and the rear on jack stands.
And FYI, it's much easier to seperate the tranny from the bellhousing, then seperate the bellhousing from the motor.
You'll also need to get a clutch line removal tool. Autozone has them, but it's listed in their system as a special tool for Ford hydaulic clutches. It's like $6, and refundable if you bring it back. I kept it so I'll have it in the future.
A nice tranny jack will really help out, but I've never had one. I just put the front of the car on ramps and the rear on jack stands.
And FYI, it's much easier to seperate the tranny from the bellhousing, then seperate the bellhousing from the motor.
11-18-2007, 05:25 PM
#31
Launching!
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Hell yeah dude. My Dad thinks I should just order that LS7 clutch kit that way I don't have any more problems with it. About the parts you got from the dealership, I think I can get those pretty easily. I work at a body shop that does work for a local Ford/GM dealership here so we get a discount through them.
11-18-2007, 05:51 PM
#32
i had the same prob.em i baught the car with 80k pedal stcuk. the slave was shot. and leaking. i ordered the clutch kit for sdpc new pilot bearing new slave and new master with the fluwheel pressure plate and clutch and drill mod. make sure u order the mast n slave for a 02 t/a
11-18-2007, 06:24 PM
#33
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The only place I know of that you can buy the slave shim is Speed Inc... but I just made my own out of a 1/8" thick aluminum road sign... lol. I didn't mean to say that was a dealer part.
11-18-2007, 08:16 PM
#34
I had a sticking clutch, it got to the point that it happened no matter what I did, so far as driving goes. I could be backing out of the garage, or going 2nd to 3rd at WOT. The clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I tried numerous bleedings of the clutch slave, no dice. However, my slave cylinder did not appear to be leaking. I decided to 1st change the master cylinder before doing the slave cylinder. As it turns out, it was my master cylinder that was the culprit.
11-19-2007, 12:56 AM
#35
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I had a sticking clutch, it got to the point that it happened no matter what I did, so far as driving goes. I could be backing out of the garage, or going 2nd to 3rd at WOT. The clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I tried numerous bleedings of the clutch slave, no dice. However, my slave cylinder did not appear to be leaking. I decided to 1st change the master cylinder before doing the slave cylinder. As it turns out, it was my master cylinder that was the culprit.
11-19-2007, 01:02 AM
#36
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I wouldn't bother with drag slicks unless you're ready to pony up the cash for a new rear end... lol. M6's can destroy stock 10 bolts with no mods... drag slicks only increase the chances of failure.
11-19-2007, 01:06 AM
#37
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I was very impressed with the difference the LS7 clutch made, and I switched to that from a Centerforce. I think you'll be pleased with the results.
11-19-2007, 02:06 AM
#38
2 pages and only 1 person who said to do the drill mod. click the manual transmission section and look at the stickies
Manual Transmissions FAQ
1. What is the drill mod?
To sum it up, basically GM didn’t think things through all the way when selecting the hydraulic lines for your T56. The steel braided line that plugs into the master cylinder has a tiny, tiny hole in it, which causes unnecessary restriction. During a quick, high-rpm shift, fluid cannot get where it needs to go fast enough, so basically it will feel like you are shifting without a clutch. It may be difficult or impossible to shift into 2nd or 3rd, and you may have some problems with the pedal itself.
When performing the drill mod, you remove the master cylinder, separate the line from the cylinder, and drill it out. To visit a site with full information and pictures, click HERE. It will be listed under the Transmission section, along with the adjustable master cylinder install (although you can do the drill mod without changing the master).
[size=2][b]
1. What is the drill mod?
To sum it up, basically GM didn’t think things through all the way when selecting the hydraulic lines for your T56. The steel braided line that plugs into the master cylinder has a tiny, tiny hole in it, which causes unnecessary restriction. During a quick, high-rpm shift, fluid cannot get where it needs to go fast enough, so basically it will feel like you are shifting without a clutch. It may be difficult or impossible to shift into 2nd or 3rd, and you may have some problems with the pedal itself.
When performing the drill mod, you remove the master cylinder, separate the line from the cylinder, and drill it out. To visit a site with full information and pictures, click HERE. It will be listed under the Transmission section, along with the adjustable master cylinder install (although you can do the drill mod without changing the master).
[size=2][b]
11-19-2007, 02:18 AM
#39
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A LOT of people have done the drill mod without fixing this problem. GM put that restriction there for a reason... to save the weak *** rear end from getting destroyed. I've yet to do the drill mod, and am perfectly satisfied with my clutch's performance.
But that's just my .02
But that's just my .02