jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Personally, I won't do the drill mod until I get a 9 inch for my car.

GunshotZ28

So replacing my stock clutch with the LS7 clutch kit from SDPC will fix my problem? I don't wanna go and spend $600 and then still have the problem, you know? Not saying you guys don't know a thing that ya'll are telling me.. It's just that I'm working with a budget..

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

I'm 99.9% sure that it will fix your problem, but there are no gaurantees in life. Personally; I think the spacer was what fixed it in my car. Couldn't hurt to put some extra heat sheilding around the line while you're down there, but I haven't.

Bottom line is... noone has really found a solid, 100% fix for this problem, even though most of the M6's have it. Some people say the drill mod is the fix, but a lot of people have tried that with no success. Some people say it's the pre-2001 hydraulics that cause the problem, but several have upgraded (including myself) without fixing it.

Personally, I fixed it the second time I changed my clutch, when I added the slave shim, bought another 2001+ slave, and installed my Centerforce.

The first time I changed my clutch to a GM HD truck clutch w/2001+ slave and master, and I still had the lazy pedal.

I was hands-down completely satisfied with my clutch operation after killing my centerforce, and putting my third clutch in. Bought the LS7 with an LS2 flywheel (same as the SDPC kit) and put it in and it has worked flawlessly ever since, with considerably more grip than the Centerforce or any other setup I've had.

I have not done the drill mod, and will not until I get a stronger rear end. I want this one to last as long as possible.

For the price, you can't go wrong. You're gonna want to upgrade at some point anyways. You can always do the drill mod after the install if you have any problems. However, I'm willing to bet that this will fix your problems.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

its not going to hurt you rear end lets get that clear first. in my car the restriction does what its ment to do , if i heat up my tires and launch my shift from first to second will leave the pedal on the floor. technically it has nothing to do with saving the rear end its just a flow restriction. its not like the slave knows something magical about your next shift that will blow your rear end

i would honestly start by replacing the slave. there is also a possibility that you have air bubbles in your system and your not getting full pressure in the line, give it another gravity bleed like the writethough says to and see if it helps any. you can buy the adjustable aftermarket slaves they sell and then list it in your sig as a "performance mod". buying a certain clutch isnt going to guarantee a fix to the problem but it will definetly narrow down the possibilites.

TAtoad

iTrader: (22)

mine does the same thing, ima do the drill mod. if not, ima just upgrade the hydrolics

GunshotZ28

I'm just going to get the LS7 Z06 clutch kit and '01+ slave cylinder with the slave shim.. Hopefully that get's the job done.

GunshotZ28

So today I had a chance to talk to the previous owner of my Firehawk. He told me that the guy who had it before him had the clutch replaced and it has no more then 15K on it. The owner before me had also never taken the car to the tracks, Just used it as a daily driver. What could be causing my lazy clutch pedal? Is there any way to test the master cylinder to make sure it's in good working condition?

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

goto corvette forumns and search for sn RANGER...i bet if you pull the cap off your clutch resavoir your fluid is black...or contaminated...simply fix...spend 45 minutes bleeding your clutch fluid and hydralics...then do it again once a week

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

read up...570+passes...change your fluid once a week...

GunshotZ28

I'm about to walk outside and go check the fluid in my clutch master cylinder reservoir and see if it's dark or clean.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

if it hasnt been changed in a month then change it anyways...if your not looking at it constantly then you wont know what clean fluid looks like...could also ahve contaminates in it...id cahnge it thoroughly? flush it until its clear, and you cna drive it for a day and its still clear (might take 20 flushes)

GunshotZ28

I just checked it out. It looks kinda dirty man, It really isn't all that clear. Also looks like some dark black spots were at the top. Could that be my problem?

This past weekend me and my Dad bled my clutch and afterwards it was pretty good.. Maybe for like a couple of minutes. The pedal was still acting up a little but it would let me shift under aggressive driving. After awhile, It started acting up. It's not leaking any fluids at all if that helps.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

yes thats your problem...what id recomend is draining it completely...then refill the whole thing...pump the petal 30 times quickly...drain completely...repeat this 2-3 times.....the 3rd time or so it should start being clear...

refill it and pump rapidly again about 30 times...then replace whats in the resavoir...do this again 2-3 times a week for 2 weeks then when your done you can do it every weekend if you beat on it much...everyother weekend if you dont...then youll never get this bad and have to do this again


thanks god i have a lt1...i dont have this problem as bad as ls1 guys with the slave inside the bellhousing...

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

just to explain..once it gets dirty or contaminated the fluid loses its boiling point...then when it gets hot it boils and \put air bubles in the line...when it cools the bubles are absorbed...with freesh fluid it wont bubble and you wont have the problem...

also if you read that line id reccomend changing to dot4 fluid that is a light or clear color..so you can see when it gets dark or dirty again...
dot4 doesnt boil until higher temp...

btw gm basically acknowledged this problem by changing the new z06 to dot4 clutch fluid from the factory while keeping dot3 in the brake system

GunshotZ28

Hopefully everything works. Won't find out till this weekend when my Dad comes home! If everything goes good, I can get that Magnaflow cat-back I been wanting instead of having to buy a new clutch and slave like I thought I was going to have to!

GunshotZ28

Don't know what to do next. I cleaned out all the fluids today and replaced everything with DOT4. Did it a couple of times, everything is clean now. And it's still doing the same thing. I had my friend drive my car and he said it should be nothing big, that my problem is something simple. I'm more then sure there is nothing wrong with my clutch or pressure plate, maybe even my slave cylinder. I have a feeling the slave cylinder was replaced whenever the previous owner had replaced the clutch but I can't be too sure. The only thing is that the clutch pedal stays down and it won't let me shift. Once I pull the clutch pedal back out and push it back in, it shifts fine. Could my clutch master cylinder be goin' out or something? I need some help!

5w20

iTrader: (21)

install a new clutch assembly

GunshotZ28

I don't know if I should considering the clutch has already been replaced. I don't wanna go and replace the whole clutch and then it turns out to be something really small, you know.

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

There is actually a sticky on this...

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/742741-sticking-clutch-pedal-write-up.html

And if you don't wanna follow that route... you can do what I said.

jmdale1984

iTrader: (6)

Or... this is what GM says about it...

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Some customers may comment about an intermittent spongy clutch pedal feel or clutch pedal sticking to the floor. This may be aggravated by aggressive driving and high clutch operating temperatures. Higher than expected levels of water in the clutch fluid greater than 2% may cause the clutch fluid to boil. The presence of water in the fluid lowers the boiling point significantly; when these conditions are present the driver may lose customary clutch pedal feel and performance.

Recommendation/Instructions:
If the above condition is intermittent flush the hydraulic system using DOT 4 fluid part number 88958860 (88901244 in Canada), prior to replacement of any mechanical or hydraulic components.

To eliminate the opportunity for moisture to enter the clutch hydraulic system.

The clutch fluid level inspection should be a VISUAL inspection only. Look through the transparent reservoir and observe the fluid level. Avoid removing the cap. Do not remove the cap just to top-off clutch fluid. Leave the system closed and sealed. During PDI inspection or routine servicing the cap should not be opened for just an inspection.
DOT 4 clutch fluid has a 2 week shelf life. Do not use fluid if container opening date is unknown or older than 2 weeks. Do not mix or re-use old fluid. Current service information already covers the issue of reuse.
To provide the best clutch operation, it is recommended that the owner change the clutch fluid every 2 calendar years. Please flush and replace the clutch fluid with P/N 88958860 (88901244 in Canada) or equivalent DOT 4.
The current service information and owners manual will be updated to reflect this information.

Note: If the concern is not intermittent, inspect clutch hydraulic system for leaks and repair as necessary after repairs are completed flush system with DOT 4 fluid part number 88958860 (88901244 in Canada).

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

Thanks to Ranger for coming across some more great info.