Lazy Clutch Pedal.. Need Help.
11-29-2007, 10:49 PM
#61
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Karnes City, Texas
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is actually a sticky on this...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/742741-sticking-clutch-pedal-write-up.html
And if you don't wanna follow that route... you can do what I said.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/742741-sticking-clutch-pedal-write-up.html
And if you don't wanna follow that route... you can do what I said.
11-29-2007, 11:20 PM
#63
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Karnes City, Texas
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ha. Yeah well I don't plan on going 140+ any time soon. Especially with the tires I have now. I probably have about a good 200 miles left on the ones I have now lol.
12-01-2007, 01:09 PM
#64
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Karnes City, Texas
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When you do the drill mod, what size drill bit do you use to drill that thing? I'm going to attempt it today. If it doesn't solve my problem I'm gonna order me an LS7 clutch kit and a '01+ slave cylinder!
12-03-2007, 12:11 AM
#66
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Palestine (East Texas), Texas
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In my experience, it always turns dirty quickly. In your case, however, it was probably residual filth that was in the rest of the system, that has now worked it's way back to the top. I don't know which method you're using, but if you're just emptying out the reservoir and filling it back up, then that's not cleaning the whole system. You'll want to do that, then drive it for a couple days, do it again, drive it again, etc. etc. etc.
If you're still wondering about the size of bit for the drill mod, it's 1/8" if I remember correctly.
... but about that. People on this forum don't usually take it too lightly when you ask questions that are covered in the sticky threads.
If you have any further questions, you should probably check the stickies in the manual transmission section first.
If you're still wondering about the size of bit for the drill mod, it's 1/8" if I remember correctly.
... but about that. People on this forum don't usually take it too lightly when you ask questions that are covered in the sticky threads.
If you have any further questions, you should probably check the stickies in the manual transmission section first.
12-03-2007, 12:15 AM
#67
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Karnes City, Texas
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah. It's all good anyways man. I'm going to order me that LS7 clutch kit tomorrow. I was going to ask if it came with a pilot bearing or an alignment tool. Don't wanna order those two and then end up with an extra of both, you know. Anyways, I plan on ordering an LS7 clutch kit, ARP flywheel bolts, alignment tool, pilot bearing, and a slave cyl. with the throw out bearing. All from SDPC. Then I plan on getting the slave cyl. shim from Speed Inc. That's all I need right?
12-03-2007, 12:35 AM
#68
sorry bro but have you tried bleeding it this way?
the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the
slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to
the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let
the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into
the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the
car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off
the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from
the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make
sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the
clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and
then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch,
and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the
slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to
the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let
the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into
the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the
car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off
the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from
the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make
sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the
clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and
then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch,
and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
12-03-2007, 12:45 AM
#69
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Karnes City, Texas
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sorry bro but have you tried bleeding it this way?
the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the
slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to
the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let
the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into
the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the
car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off
the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from
the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make
sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the
clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and
then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch,
and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
the person under the car will crack open the bleeder screw on the
slave cylinder. The person in the car will then depress the clutch pedal to
the floor and will hold it to the floor. It is very important to not to let
the clutch pedal off the floor at this point, as you will pull air back into
the system. Once the pedal is depressed and held down, the person under the
car will then close the bleeder screw. You may need to pull the pedal off
the floor, or pump it up just a bit to get the pedal back.
You may need to repeeat this procedure 4 or 5 times to remove all air from
the system. Each stroke moves about 10ml of fluid. So, you want to make
sure you don't run the master cylinder dry while you are bleeding the
clutch. What you DO NOT want to do is to pump the pedal, hold it down, and
then crack the bleeder screw. This is the wrong way to bleed the clutch,
and you will never remove any air from the system this way.
12-03-2007, 12:55 AM
#71
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Karnes City, Texas
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Damn. It sucked cleaning it out. Alot of dirty fluid came out of mine the first time. I've came to the point to where I just wanna get everything new lol. It sucks because all the local imports always pull up next to me on the highway in a low *** gear like they wanna try and race, but I can't really do ****. And I don't wanna beat on my car in the condition as it's in. Can't wait till I get my new clutch! Gonna be EATING RICE FOR A WHOLE WEEk lol.
12-03-2007, 01:15 AM
#73
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Karnes City, Texas
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll PM you and let you know the exact total of everything I order, if thats what you want. I'm gonna try and order it tomorrow during my lunch break. Just gotta see if my Dad can let me use his credit card since I only have a $400 daily spending limit on mine.
12-03-2007, 01:27 AM
#75
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Palestine (East Texas), Texas
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah. It's all good anyways man. I'm going to order me that LS7 clutch kit tomorrow. I was going to ask if it came with a pilot bearing or an alignment tool. Don't wanna order those two and then end up with an extra of both, you know. Anyways, I plan on ordering an LS7 clutch kit, ARP flywheel bolts, alignment tool, pilot bearing, and a slave cyl. with the throw out bearing. All from SDPC. Then I plan on getting the slave cyl. shim from Speed Inc. That's all I need right?
That should be all you need right now. Unless you want to get some heat shielding for your clutch line. It's not a bad idea. It may not necessarily help anything, but it definitely won't hurt.
12-03-2007, 01:37 AM
#76
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Karnes City, Texas
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just ordered a new LS7 kit from them (had a leaking rear main that demolished my clutch and flywheel). They have the alignment tool, but you have to buy it separately. I tried to order the pilot bearing as well (it does not come with the kit), but they were out. You can pick it up from a dealer for less than $20 if I remember correctly.
That should be all you need right now. Unless you want to get some heat shielding for your clutch line. It's not a bad idea. It may not necessarily help anything, but it definitely won't hurt.
That should be all you need right now. Unless you want to get some heat shielding for your clutch line. It's not a bad idea. It may not necessarily help anything, but it definitely won't hurt.
