which rotors and pads to get?

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Old May 20, 2008 | 09:34 AM
  #21  
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in the middle of installing brembo blanks (treated), Hawk HPS pads and stainless lines
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Old May 20, 2008 | 09:54 AM
  #22  
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Slots don't keep your brake pads even/straight. Some people say they allow out gasing of the pads, but most pads today don't have that issue anymore. Also a lot of manufactures like Baer say that slots actually scrape your pads clean. I'm guessing to make sure that you always have 100% of the pad contacting the rotor and you don't get brake material build up between the pad and rotor.

Personally my thoughts are that blanks are going to give you the best performance. They have more surface area and mass and obviously are less prone to cracking.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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yea i did get brembo blanks haha, was looking at the pic than looked further down and it said "picture shown is not actual product"
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Old May 20, 2008 | 12:18 PM
  #24  
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I put Duralast rotors and pads on my DD. I've always had good luck with both.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 12:30 PM
  #25  
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Time and time again the whole "Drilled and Slotted vs Blanks" debate has been brought up and time and time again blanks have been the preferred choice for strictly performance minded people. The drilled and slotted look much better and people seem to get them more for that reason; unless they aren't doing their research first. Talk to the autox guys and see what they use if people are still not believing that the drilling and slotting are for looks in most cases.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 01:13 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Fotis
its what i've been told and so far your the only one saying otherwise i hear yea but its a week case .... but then again you might be right
No might about it. The difference you felt in braking was from more agressive pads and any fade resistance is from rotors that are about 4 lbs heavier than stock plus pads that operate at a higher temp range.

Weak case? How about your theories? Just how do those holes make it cooler since there is NO airflow through them when the rotor is in motion. How aout the "keep pads flat" theory that I busted all up? How many years of working on cars do you have under your belt???
Go talk to people that actually race regularly and are competitive when racing and see what they say.

If the people you talk to tell you something else then I'd advise you to stop listening to them because they don't know dick.


Next we'll hear all about how back pressure makes more torque

Before anyone thinks I'm getting pissed, nope I'm just blunt.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 02:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by F-117HWK
Time and time again the whole "Drilled and Slotted vs Blanks" debate has been brought up and time and time again blanks have been the preferred choice for strictly performance minded people. The drilled and slotted look much better and people seem to get them more for that reason; unless they aren't doing their research first. Talk to the autox guys and see what they use if people are still not believing that the drilling and slotting are for looks in most cases.
ditto, this has been a big debate FOREVER and it always ends the same..drilled/slotted rotors arent for real performance they tend to crack under pressure!!!
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Old May 20, 2008 | 02:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mycamaroSS
ditto, this has been a big debate FOREVER and it always ends the same..drilled/slotted rotors arent for real performance they tend to crack under pressure!!!
Thank you! If it isnt already there needs to be some type of sticky that informs people of this because there is a lot of "my friend told me this" stuff going around and frankly, its just wrong.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 02:32 PM
  #29  
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I can remember this argument coming up back in the late 90's when the LS1's were 1st available. Even back then blanks were considered the better choice. Like has already been said, cross-drilled rotors have a tendency to crack under extreme use. The more surface area, the better.
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Old May 20, 2008 | 02:46 PM
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it's common sense
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