Close racing at TWS - video inside
08-15-2008, 09:03 PM
#1
Close racing at TWS - video inside http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUe9rBx8mYA
All the video execpt for 2 short clips, were shot with a GoPro Video Hero.
Alamo Autosports in Arlington, Texas provided this interesting little video camera to try out over the weekend.
It's about the size of a deck of cards, records AVI files directly to an SD card and comes with all kinds of nifty mouting gadgets that work absolutely great.
http://goprocamera.com/
http://www.alamoautosports.com/
Quite impressive for the packaging and price point.
All the video execpt for 2 short clips, were shot with a GoPro Video Hero.
Alamo Autosports in Arlington, Texas provided this interesting little video camera to try out over the weekend.
It's about the size of a deck of cards, records AVI files directly to an SD card and comes with all kinds of nifty mouting gadgets that work absolutely great.
http://goprocamera.com/
http://www.alamoautosports.com/
Quite impressive for the packaging and price point.
Last edited by mitchntx; 08-16-2008 at 10:08 AM.
08-16-2008, 07:17 AM
#3
It's a boat load of fun.
The GoPro camera has a few audio issues when subjected to high wind speeds. So, I over-dubbed the first 30 seconds with alternate audio and then needed some sort of audio track.
So it was either NB or silence.
The GoPro camera has a few audio issues when subjected to high wind speeds. So, I over-dubbed the first 30 seconds with alternate audio and then needed some sort of audio track.
So it was either NB or silence.
08-16-2008, 02:59 PM
#6
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Nice video, Mitch. Yeah, that song is not so far off when you think about it, lol. Looks like some guys were having problems with the turn at the end of the back straight. (turn 6 isn't it?)
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08-18-2008, 11:51 AM
#10
so what kind of preparation is needed for the car to compete?
do u have to gut it out like yours, stock rear end?
what motor? t56? im really interested in building a car for that.
i have a 99m6 z28 that i dont even drive. that i could use.
i decided not hack it up for drag racing, i will use a 3rd gen again instead.
isnt there a track for road racing outside of houston?
if u have time pm with details
or just post more info here
thanks
do u have to gut it out like yours, stock rear end?
what motor? t56? im really interested in building a car for that.
i have a 99m6 z28 that i dont even drive. that i could use.
i decided not hack it up for drag racing, i will use a 3rd gen again instead.
isnt there a track for road racing outside of houston?
if u have time pm with details
or just post more info here
thanks
08-18-2008, 02:13 PM
#11
If you ae considering CMC, an LSx motor will have to be restricted to 260 hp and 310 TQ. That's why a bone stock motor is best. Anything you do to build power just has to be restricted.
You don't have to gut the interior, but it is highly recommended. It is weight that you have to accelerate and stop. Bottom line is if it doesn't make the car stop or go, it's gone in my car. The other reason is al that stuff will burn. And that's all I'm gonna say about that.
Folks have driven their race car to the track and then driven them home. So, it's not out of the question.
By rule, it has to be a manual transmission. And a T56 designed to take 300+ HP will live forever behind a 260 hp motor. The same holds true for the clutch and 10 bolt.
That is car prep and back ground.
It needs a 6 point cage built out of 1 3/4" DOM tubing with 2 driver side door bars and 1 passenger side bar. You will need a good racing seat and a 5 point racing harness. You will need a window net and a right side head restraint. Finally, a fire extinguisher and master cut-off swith that isolates the battery and alternator from the car's electrical system.
For the driver, a 1 piece fire suit, nomex socks and shoes, nomex driving gloves, an SA rated helmet and a HANS device.
A car and driver can be readied for racing in a couple months of part time work and for under $8K, if you do all the work yourself ... that includes buying a running car.
Like anything, you can go cheap or you can go 1st class. each path has it's merits and it's draw backs.
I spend $3-4K a year on racing, which includes travel, registration and car maintenance. If you camp at the track, you can save a few more dollars.
It's not as bad as most people think.
You don't have to gut the interior, but it is highly recommended. It is weight that you have to accelerate and stop. Bottom line is if it doesn't make the car stop or go, it's gone in my car. The other reason is al that stuff will burn. And that's all I'm gonna say about that.
Folks have driven their race car to the track and then driven them home. So, it's not out of the question.
By rule, it has to be a manual transmission. And a T56 designed to take 300+ HP will live forever behind a 260 hp motor. The same holds true for the clutch and 10 bolt.
That is car prep and back ground.
It needs a 6 point cage built out of 1 3/4" DOM tubing with 2 driver side door bars and 1 passenger side bar. You will need a good racing seat and a 5 point racing harness. You will need a window net and a right side head restraint. Finally, a fire extinguisher and master cut-off swith that isolates the battery and alternator from the car's electrical system.
For the driver, a 1 piece fire suit, nomex socks and shoes, nomex driving gloves, an SA rated helmet and a HANS device.
A car and driver can be readied for racing in a couple months of part time work and for under $8K, if you do all the work yourself ... that includes buying a running car.
Like anything, you can go cheap or you can go 1st class. each path has it's merits and it's draw backs.
I spend $3-4K a year on racing, which includes travel, registration and car maintenance. If you camp at the track, you can save a few more dollars.
It's not as bad as most people think.
08-18-2008, 03:03 PM
#12
If you ae considering CMC, an LSx motor will have to be restricted to 260 hp and 310 TQ. That's why a bone stock motor is best. Anything you do to build power just has to be restricted.
You don't have to gut the interior, but it is highly recommended. It is weight that you have to accelerate and stop. Bottom line is if it doesn't make the car stop or go, it's gone in my car. The other reason is al that stuff will burn. And that's all I'm gonna say about that.
Folks have driven their race car to the track and then driven them home. So, it's not out of the question.
By rule, it has to be a manual transmission. And a T56 designed to take 300+ HP will live forever behind a 260 hp motor. The same holds true for the clutch and 10 bolt.
That is car prep and back ground.
It needs a 6 point cage built out of 1 3/4" DOM tubing with 2 driver side door bars and 1 passenger side bar. You will need a good racing seat and a 5 point racing harness. You will need a window net and a right side head restraint. Finally, a fire extinguisher and master cut-off swith that isolates the battery and alternator from the car's electrical system.
For the driver, a 1 piece fire suit, nomex socks and shoes, nomex driving gloves, an SA rated helmet and a HANS device.
A car and driver can be readied for racing in a couple months of part time work and for under $8K, if you do all the work yourself ... that includes buying a running car.
Like anything, you can go cheap or you can go 1st class. each path has it's merits and it's draw backs.
I spend $3-4K a year on racing, which includes travel, registration and car maintenance. If you camp at the track, you can save a few more dollars.
It's not as bad as most people think.
You don't have to gut the interior, but it is highly recommended. It is weight that you have to accelerate and stop. Bottom line is if it doesn't make the car stop or go, it's gone in my car. The other reason is al that stuff will burn. And that's all I'm gonna say about that.
Folks have driven their race car to the track and then driven them home. So, it's not out of the question.
By rule, it has to be a manual transmission. And a T56 designed to take 300+ HP will live forever behind a 260 hp motor. The same holds true for the clutch and 10 bolt.
That is car prep and back ground.
It needs a 6 point cage built out of 1 3/4" DOM tubing with 2 driver side door bars and 1 passenger side bar. You will need a good racing seat and a 5 point racing harness. You will need a window net and a right side head restraint. Finally, a fire extinguisher and master cut-off swith that isolates the battery and alternator from the car's electrical system.
For the driver, a 1 piece fire suit, nomex socks and shoes, nomex driving gloves, an SA rated helmet and a HANS device.
A car and driver can be readied for racing in a couple months of part time work and for under $8K, if you do all the work yourself ... that includes buying a running car.
Like anything, you can go cheap or you can go 1st class. each path has it's merits and it's draw backs.
I spend $3-4K a year on racing, which includes travel, registration and car maintenance. If you camp at the track, you can save a few more dollars.
It's not as bad as most people think.
i alredy have the car, the trans and engine.
i would think a aluminum 5.3 or a 4.8 with ls6 heads would be a good contender. i could build a all aluminum 4.8 with ls1 intake, it still may be too powerful even with stock cam and manifolds tho.
do u favor lo end tq, or prefer a high winding motor that recovers quicker?
ive always thought about this type of racing, but sadly gran turismo is the only exp. i have
i have no problem removing all the interior and to the point where i could reinstall,
also are ttop cars allowed? the car i have is a ttops
i would imagine most of funds would be for tires, brakes, and suspension,entry fees
what is your opinion of c5 conversion brakes for racing with drilled rotors
with ventilation ducting?
is there a site i can look up all the info and rules to prepare the car?
thanks for the info
08-18-2008, 09:03 PM
#13
Torque is where it's at. Minimize shifting, pulls hard off of corners, lower RPM means durability ...
http://www.camaromustangchallenge.com/
Click on rules and info on the left.
As you will see, only engine/trans combos that originally came in the car are allowed in CMC.
http://www.americanironracing.com/
Click on the rules tab.
This is a pure HP/Weight and TQ/Weight class. Run what you brung. The thing is, lots of the big money guys are doing a lot with aero and light weight composites. This causes the price to skyrocket. I've heard that some cars are approching $80K
T-Top cars are just fine. There is very little (if any) structural integrity between a TT and NTT car once a cage is installed. However, an additional bar in the top has to be added for a T-Top car.
I was fortunate enough to win the CMC2 regional championship last year, using a total of 6 tires, 2 sets of brakes and 3 sets of O'Reilly $25 rotors, 1 alternator and 1 Y-Pipe. No body damage at all. I'm running the stock 98+ front rotors using C5 calipers. Drilled or slotted rotors are not allowed.
This year, I started the year on 16s and ran the first 3 races on 6 tires. I sold them (still with lots of tread) and went to 17s. I've bought 3 sets of 17s, all for under a grand and have 2 weekends on a single set with still plenty of tire left. As a matter of fact, for CMC2, I set new track records at both venues.
Tires and brakes are really not an issue. Toyo makes a really good R compound tire that just doesn't fall off in traction till the cords are showing.
The most expensive part of a race weekend is getting to and from the track (depending upon the venue). Deisel at 10mpg is a killer!
This year I have been very lucky. I have picked up a few sponsors that have dramatically off set my costs.
A local Texaco Kwik Lube services my truck and fills my race car with gas and truck with deisel before I leave. I take the car to his place of business 5 or 6 times a year and display it.
A welding and gas supply business owner is also a racer/competitor and really good friend. We share a hotel room which he covers and usually covers all my meals. We also get all our meatal working supplies furnished when building these cars.
My nephew owns a graphics and printing business so I get my artwork supplied.
I instruct DE and racecraft students and get my entry fees comped.
Finally, a local speed shop has sponsored me to a set amount of shop labor, which I use for mounting/flipping tires and alignments.
Everything else is sponsored by Visa!
http://www.camaromustangchallenge.com/
Click on rules and info on the left.
As you will see, only engine/trans combos that originally came in the car are allowed in CMC.
http://www.americanironracing.com/
Click on the rules tab.
This is a pure HP/Weight and TQ/Weight class. Run what you brung. The thing is, lots of the big money guys are doing a lot with aero and light weight composites. This causes the price to skyrocket. I've heard that some cars are approching $80K
T-Top cars are just fine. There is very little (if any) structural integrity between a TT and NTT car once a cage is installed. However, an additional bar in the top has to be added for a T-Top car.
I was fortunate enough to win the CMC2 regional championship last year, using a total of 6 tires, 2 sets of brakes and 3 sets of O'Reilly $25 rotors, 1 alternator and 1 Y-Pipe. No body damage at all. I'm running the stock 98+ front rotors using C5 calipers. Drilled or slotted rotors are not allowed.
This year, I started the year on 16s and ran the first 3 races on 6 tires. I sold them (still with lots of tread) and went to 17s. I've bought 3 sets of 17s, all for under a grand and have 2 weekends on a single set with still plenty of tire left. As a matter of fact, for CMC2, I set new track records at both venues.
Tires and brakes are really not an issue. Toyo makes a really good R compound tire that just doesn't fall off in traction till the cords are showing.
The most expensive part of a race weekend is getting to and from the track (depending upon the venue). Deisel at 10mpg is a killer!
This year I have been very lucky. I have picked up a few sponsors that have dramatically off set my costs.
A local Texaco Kwik Lube services my truck and fills my race car with gas and truck with deisel before I leave. I take the car to his place of business 5 or 6 times a year and display it.
A welding and gas supply business owner is also a racer/competitor and really good friend. We share a hotel room which he covers and usually covers all my meals. We also get all our meatal working supplies furnished when building these cars.
My nephew owns a graphics and printing business so I get my artwork supplied.
I instruct DE and racecraft students and get my entry fees comped.
Finally, a local speed shop has sponsored me to a set amount of shop labor, which I use for mounting/flipping tires and alignments.
Everything else is sponsored by Visa!
08-18-2008, 09:09 PM
#14
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it has the stock to a F-body.
w/ zero track time, you will need to spend about 5 weekends in HPDE working your way thru HPDE 1 all the way to 4. then you will be allowed to request a Comp License.
best bet is to take the car out just like it sits and spend a day at the track w/ a group and see what you think.
just an FYI - road racing is not like friday test and tune at the drags. you cant just show up and pay your $15 and race. you have to go thru the proper steps and prove yourself before your allowed to go wheel to wheel.
there is a track just south of Pearland on 288.
w/ zero track time, you will need to spend about 5 weekends in HPDE working your way thru HPDE 1 all the way to 4. then you will be allowed to request a Comp License.
best bet is to take the car out just like it sits and spend a day at the track w/ a group and see what you think.
just an FYI - road racing is not like friday test and tune at the drags. you cant just show up and pay your $15 and race. you have to go thru the proper steps and prove yourself before your allowed to go wheel to wheel.
there is a track just south of Pearland on 288.
08-19-2008, 08:07 AM
#15
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