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Need help picking out a starter welder.

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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 12:36 AM
  #21  
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AGH--your bums itchy!! 90 pecent of all auto welding is done with a mig. You must have a`cheap one. If done correctly it stands up to tests as well as or better than stick. I don't even think it's legal to weld a cage with a stick?


X's 2 on buying good equipment. Craigs list or free ads trader. 110v is "almost" useless. Get a decient 220v mig and you'll be happy for a long time.
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 11:14 AM
  #22  
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Yep, I thought it was going to be something stupid like this.

New DC rectifier $ 10.00
Shipping didn`t even ask, wasn`t worried about it

Oh by the way we don`t stock that part and have to order from the mfg......10-12 week wait time.

Not having a welder for the next 3 months.....priceless
So just remember, if you buy a cheap welder it might suck to get parts

Last edited by G-Body; Aug 26, 2009 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Aug 26, 2009 | 11:56 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ls1nova99
AGH--your bums itchy!! 90 pecent of all auto welding is done with a mig. You must have a`cheap one. If done correctly it stands up to tests as well as or better than stick. I don't even think it's legal to weld a cage with a stick?


X's 2 on buying good equipment. Craigs list or free ads trader. 110v is "almost" useless. Get a decient 220v mig and you'll be happy for a long time.
x2 on the first paragraph
x2 on good equipment
but a great big HUH? on 110v being useless. My miller is rated for 3/8 plate on 110v. if you know a few tips and tricks then a 110v machine will suite you just fine.

220 is always better but not always there, and 220v extension cords dollar wise cause heart attacks. a quality name brand machine works great on 110v but if you can get a machine that is switchable, mine is. I only have 110 but my co-worker ran a completely new 220v plug into his garage so if i need the power i go over there. I will note however that on 110v i can go to 7 out of 10 on my heat safely
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 12:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by CarsandWomen
x2 on the first paragraph
x2 on good equipment
but a great big HUH? on 110v being useless. My miller is rated for 3/8 plate on 110v. if you know a few tips and tricks then a 110v machine will suite you just fine.

220 is always better but not always there, and 220v extension cords dollar wise cause heart attacks. a quality name brand machine works great on 110v but if you can get a machine that is switchable, mine is. I only have 110 but my co-worker ran a completely new 220v plug into his garage so if i need the power i go over there. I will note however that on 110v i can go to 7 out of 10 on my heat safely
Not if you know where to look or make it yourself.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 07:11 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by CarsandWomen
x2 on the first paragraph
x2 on good equipment
but a great big HUH? on 110v being useless. My miller is rated for 3/8 plate on 110v. if you know a few tips and tricks then a 110v machine will suite you just fine.

220 is always better but not always there, and 220v extension cords dollar wise cause heart attacks. a quality name brand machine works great on 110v but if you can get a machine that is switchable, mine is. I only have 110 but my co-worker ran a completely new 220v plug into his garage so if i need the power i go over there. I will note however that on 110v i can go to 7 out of 10 on my heat safely
You have a passport, right? there is no other machine like it, so its not a good comparison here. Thats like me matching my dynasty up to an econo tig, or my syncrowave 250 to a chinese mig tig plasma machine..... 110 welders have their niche, 3/8" plate isnt it.

PS your passport is rated for 140 amps output on 110, thats not enough for 3/8" On 220 it's rated for 3/8"

Last edited by BADD SS; Aug 27, 2009 at 07:16 PM.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 07:22 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AGH
You don't want no cheap AC welder. If you can not get a AC/DC welder then don't get anything. You dont want to weld your subframe or any part of you cage with MIG. MIG welds are not deep penetrating welds. I would stick rod weld my chassis with a DC welder over MIG any day of the week. Personally, I weld my cage and chassis stuff with TIG (heli-arc). Do not use a 6010 or 6011 rod on the cage or chassis either; use 7018.
I agree do not buy a cheap welder you need a name brand MIG and you can hook a paint ball CO2 tank for the gas (it works good and is good if you don’t use the welder allot)

MIG welders can get the same strength weld as the arc welder it is all about the size of a welder.

It is a common misconception that small wire feed welders cant make strong welds or you cant weld a roll cage.. it is all about the thickness of the metal and most small wire feed welders have more than enough power for cages or anything you need them for.

If you happen to find a weld that requires a little more penetration you can grind a bevel in the pieces and leave a 1/8 inch gap, and if it is a deep weld you can make multiple passes.
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 08:29 PM
  #27  
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x2 on the first paragraph
x2 on good equipment
but a great big HUH? on 110v being useless. My miller is rated for 3/8 plate on 110v. if you know a few tips and tricks then a 110v machine will suite you just fine.



Sorry, you are right. There are worthwhile 110 welders out there, the duel voltage units and the pricier 110 welders. When I think about the 110 units most people seem to talk about(harbor freight specials) it's been my experience they are useless. Just my .02.
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BADD SS
You have a passport, right? there is no other machine like it, so its not a good comparison here. Thats like me matching my dynasty up to an econo tig, or my syncrowave 250 to a chinese mig tig plasma machine..... 110 welders have their niche, 3/8" plate isnt it.

PS your passport is rated for 140 amps output on 110, thats not enough for 3/8" On 220 it's rated for 3/8"
eh, yeah it is pretty badass lol. I do weld 3/8 on 110v, i bevel the edges and run several passes, slow and hot with the wire turned down.

I do see your point about the comparison though, although i also got a good deal on mine so i dont think its too big a stretch for the op to get a very good machine.

Either way IMHO a decent quality 110v MiG welder works great for most household and automotive jobs. As long as its got a shielding gas im not a big fan of Flux cored
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Old Aug 28, 2009 | 08:56 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CarsandWomen
eh, yeah it is pretty badass lol. I do weld 3/8 on 110v, i bevel the edges and run several passes, slow and hot with the wire turned down.

I do see your point about the comparison though, although i also got a good deal on mine so i dont think its too big a stretch for the op to get a very good machine.

Either way IMHO a decent quality 110v MiG welder works great for most household and automotive jobs. As long as its got a shielding gas im not a big fan of Flux cored
Beveling is a great way to use a 110 machine, or even just on thicker stuff on any machine, but you have to be carefull what/how you put stuff imo. I have seen people try to weldtrailer hitches with a 70 amp harbor freight fluxcore machine, and wonder why it doesnt stick together. I have a sign in my welding shop:

Labor rate: $95/hr
Portable $140/hr

If you help $200/hr

Most un-informed people are better just told to get the bigger machine, which either they will and hopefully learn how to use it, or bring it to someone who can...

PS. Dualshield is OK but standard fluxcore sucks IMHO.....
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 12:31 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by BADD SS
Beveling is a great way to use a 110 machine, or even just on thicker stuff on any machine, but you have to be carefull what/how you put stuff imo. I have seen people try to weldtrailer hitches with a 70 amp harbor freight fluxcore machine, and wonder why it doesnt stick together. I have a sign in my welding shop:

Labor rate: $95/hr
Portable $140/hr

If you help $200/hr

Most un-informed people are better just told to get the bigger machine, which either they will and hopefully learn how to use it, or bring it to someone who can...

PS. Dualshield is OK but standard fluxcore sucks IMHO.....
you and i are on the same book, page, paragraph, and line number.

thanks for the reminder about less knowledgeable welders, sometimes i forget not everybody does this 60 hours a week lol. hell sometimes I forget I do this 60 hrs/week haha, then i remember i do and my happy moment fades away
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Old Aug 29, 2009 | 01:17 AM
  #31  
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start out with a mig idk why you would want to weld the underside of a car with an arc welder that just confused the heck out of me readin that one, mig will do ya just fine and you will penetrate just the same as the arc with it and you really dont "need" a tig unless your welding aluminumunum

my subframes were welded on with mig and they work perfect any more penetration in the weld and my carpet would have caught fire lol

and get a 220v you will have so much more fun with that than a 110v
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Old Sep 4, 2009 | 12:50 PM
  #32  
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Sorry to hijack OP, but there seems to be a lot of great welders in here and I wanted to get some advice

What if my sole purpose of welding was to just weld exhaust (for turbo applications) and aluminum for intercoolers and piping and cage work.... NOTHING else. I like the process of TIG better, but I know the best machines are costly.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 12:24 AM
  #33  
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Until you said aluminum intercoolers I was going to say just get yourself a ford 3g alternator and a tig torch.

From everything I have read, you need high frequency AC to weld aluminum. At least if you want nice welds. And it seems like only the expensive TIG`s have that. But heres a thought, the original heli-arc tigs that people used to weld aluminum with were DC, I read that it was something about using helium to shield it that allowed you to weld aluminum with DC.

At any rate, I actually started building a 3g alt powered tig/arc welder last week. sorta patterned off this one http://myweb.cableone.net/rschell/TIG.htm I`m not really expecting a lot out of it, but I had most of the parts lying around the garage anyway so I figured I would give it a try. It has to be better than the old 225A AC buzzbox that I use for heavy welding right now.
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by G-Body
Until you said aluminum intercoolers I was going to say just get yourself a ford 3g alternator and a tig torch.

From everything I have read, you need high frequency AC to weld aluminum. At least if you want nice welds. And it seems like only the expensive TIG`s have that. But heres a thought, the original heli-arc tigs that people used to weld aluminum with were DC, I read that it was something about using helium to shield it that allowed you to weld aluminum with DC.

At any rate, I actually started building a 3g alt powered tig/arc welder last week. sorta patterned off this one http://myweb.cableone.net/rschell/TIG.htm I`m not really expecting a lot out of it, but I had most of the parts lying around the garage anyway so I figured I would give it a try. It has to be better than the old 225A AC buzzbox that I use for heavy welding right now.
I had an alternator tig for a while, it worked well but in the end, if you weld a decent amount, it's worth it to step up to a real welder.
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Old Sep 8, 2009 | 04:56 PM
  #35  
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This past weekend I picked up a like new condition Lincoln Mig Pak 15 (220v) for $100.00 off an older guy that had no more use for it.
Look around cause deals are out there.
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