Welding vband without warp?
01-22-2010, 08:32 AM
#22
Good question. My y-pipe looks good...but I must confess I had NO idea what I was doing haha. It was my first try at building a custom pipe like that. I tried to wrap my head around building the merge, after giving up on a true dual idea that I had. And I just didnt want to have to deal with it. The flowmaster merge is one of the best from what I read, so I figured might as well. Its holding up well corrosion wise. I DD that car. It sees rain, salt, dirts, etc, and the pipes still look nice.
If I ever redo it, which is likely to happen, I might try to re-visit my dual idea, and if not, Ill probably rebuild the y-pipe with all stainless.
J.
If I ever redo it, which is likely to happen, I might try to re-visit my dual idea, and if not, Ill probably rebuild the y-pipe with all stainless.
J.
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Homer_Simpson (05-31-2023)
02-12-2010, 02:55 AM
#27
A similar MIG arc is hotter than a TIG arc, but since the typical bead will take 3-5x as long to make with a TIG, you end up putting more total heat into the weld.
Just running a bunch of tacks around it is a bad idea, typically that will result in inclusions in the weld that will end up being a location for cracks to start. The best way of dealing with this is to tack it every inch or 2 around the flange, and then go back and run short beads connecting the tacks in a pattern that skips around like you would tightening lug nuts.
308/308L filler is intended for welding stainless like 304. 309/309L is recommended for welding dissimilar metals, like welding mild to 304 or 409 stainless.
And finally, yes, newer inverter welders are more easy to control at lower power settings, but you can pretty much do it with any TIG welder as long as you can find a small enough tungsten.
Just running a bunch of tacks around it is a bad idea, typically that will result in inclusions in the weld that will end up being a location for cracks to start. The best way of dealing with this is to tack it every inch or 2 around the flange, and then go back and run short beads connecting the tacks in a pattern that skips around like you would tightening lug nuts.
308/308L filler is intended for welding stainless like 304. 309/309L is recommended for welding dissimilar metals, like welding mild to 304 or 409 stainless.
And finally, yes, newer inverter welders are more easy to control at lower power settings, but you can pretty much do it with any TIG welder as long as you can find a small enough tungsten.
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Homer_Simpson (05-30-2023)
02-12-2010, 09:52 PM
#28
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I agree with lots of tacks being a bad idea. I weld a lot of thin wall 4130 everyday and I have seen others use a very slow pulsed TIG, basically tacking the metal and moving forward to fast leaving those little inclusions in every little puddle..its like connect the dots, a fun game for cracks. Make sure you back off the pedal slow with TIG and keep the shielding gas on the weld for 5-10seconds to prevent these inclusions in the first place. When building your "stack of dimes" make sure the edge of each dime covers the center (possible inclusion area) of the previous dime, you will have a consistent edge that way and a strong weld.
01-14-2013, 12:28 PM
#29
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agreeded on the having toomany tack welds.
Ive alway welded, when it comes to comtroling the heat, tack evenly around to hold it, and then small beads connected on opposite sends, making sure to backweld a touch to clean up on the tacks. wish i could afford a tig machine, id be welding the crap out of stuff right now lol
Ive alway welded, when it comes to comtroling the heat, tack evenly around to hold it, and then small beads connected on opposite sends, making sure to backweld a touch to clean up on the tacks. wish i could afford a tig machine, id be welding the crap out of stuff right now lol
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Homer_Simpson (05-31-2023)
01-15-2013, 12:22 PM
#30
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01-15-2013, 01:51 PM
#31
Its like welding a driveshaft or any other round tube. Start -weld all the way around and part will be in its original position. Used this procedure for about 20000 hours of fabrication and never let's me down. Oh ya put 3 liberal tacks at 12-4-8 positions first
Beaudacious
Beaudacious
01-15-2013, 02:46 PM
#32
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its like welding a driveshaft or any other round tube. Start -weld all the way around and part will be in its original position. Used this procedure for about 20000 hours of fabrication and never let's me down. Oh ya put 3 liberal tacks at 12-4-8 positions first
beaudacious
beaudacious
07-30-2013, 01:03 PM
#33
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Glad I found this thread. I am getting ready to weld some 304SS V Band flanges to some 3" 304SS exhaust tubing. I am making my own Y pipe. I will be using a 135-amp MIG welder with .025" 308L wire. Just wondering if I should set the heat setting for the exhaust pipe thickness and spread the weld evenly between the two pieces or set the heat setting for the flange thickness and concentrate the weld more towards the flange to avoid burning through the tubing?
Sorry if this is a stupid question. I am new to welding. I will be spreading out the welds as mentioned in this thread will clamp the flanges together when welding. Thanks!
Sorry if this is a stupid question. I am new to welding. I will be spreading out the welds as mentioned in this thread will clamp the flanges together when welding. Thanks!
