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MIG Welder Question....

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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 01:30 AM
  #1  
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Default MIG Welder Question....

Will this welder be able to handle an occasional cage install and exhaust work, and maybe some other odds and ends like subframe connectors.
I saw this on a link cody brooks posted up
http://store.ineedparts.com/store/vi...idProduct=2802, here are the specs:*
130 Amp Gas/No Gas Mig Welder
ClarkeŽ 110 Volt 130 Amp Gas/No Gas Mig Welder
*
Also includes:
Starter*roll flux core wire
Hand-held welding mask


*
High Quality - Low Price
Operates from standard 110V circuit.
Variable wire feed control.
Four heat settings.
On / Off switch.
+ / - Polarity control
Fan Cooled.
Automatic thermal safety switch prevents overload.

Welds all mild carbon steels with flux core wire.
(Can be converted to Gas Operation to weld aluminum, stainless steel and cast iron with correct wire & gas. Gas conversion kit is NOT included with this package. Available Separately)
Complete with TwecoŽ style mig gun, starter spool and instruction video.
Simple to operate and portable.

Weight: 54 lbs
Amps Maximum: 130
Circuit Breaker Recommended: 20-25 amps
Input voltage / phase: 110 / single
Wire sizes .023 - .035.
Heat Settings: Four
Duty Cycle: 20% at max output
Max Metal Thickness: 3/16'
10/2 - Year Limited Welder Warranty
--------------------------------------------



I already have a mask and gloves and I can get the gas conversion here locally for pretty cheap(30 bucks) I have a cage in the garage that I was going to get installed but everyone wants 100 bucks a point(=800+supplies) around here and I will not pay that much for something I am sure I can handle myself with some help of a friend or two.

Thanks all,
J
unemployed=tons of free time to get projects done
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 06:38 AM
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The way I look at it, you can always turn a bigger welder down to do what you need, but you can never turn a smaller welder up. I would get a 230v if at all possible, the little 110v's max out pretty quick If you are stuck with 110v look into the Lincoln Electric 3200Hd about 430.00 but comes with the gas reg, or the millermatic 135.
If you can handle 230 volts I really like my MM175
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 06:39 AM
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hobart welders are very good also, they are made by miller
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 09:02 AM
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I'd advise getting the setup for shielding gas. You'll get much nicer welds... I have a Lincoln ProMIG 135 and I tried the fluxcore wire first and wasn't real happy with the results. Nice clean beads with the solid wire and gas...
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 10:12 AM
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I use an HTP MIG 200 (200 amps, 220 volts), and have been very satified with the results. They're not cheap, but very durably built for years of hard use. And their duty cycle is pretty much unmatched. You could buy a cheaper welder, but then you'd have a cheaper welder.

http://www.htpweld.com/product_page/...s/mig_200.html

http://www.htpweld.com/product_page/...mig_index.html
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 12:43 PM
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Bad thing about a 220v is I would have to get a 220v outlet wired up in the garage. Money I don't have, the other bad thing about getting a more expensive welder is I am unemployed at the moment so I have little to spend on a welder, but now that I have a ton of free time on my hands I could get all the small welding jobs that I have to do knocked out if I had a good welder. Also saving money I don't have by doing the work myself and not taking the car to a shop.

So back to the original question, would the SPECIFIED welder above be able to handle the small tasks that I have planned for it, ie cage weld up, subframe connectors, small exhaust odds and ends? I appreciate the links to those nice high end welders but I was wondering if this lil one would do the jobs I listed

it is gas convertible which I plan on getting(conversion kit) here locally for cheap, I would like to have clean welds so that is why I am asking about this lil welder.
Thanks
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 01:02 PM
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There's nothing wrong with the little 110v buzzboxes. I know lots of people that get beautiful welds from them. You're not going to weld anything 2 inchs thick, but I doubt you'll have a use for that anyway.

As far as the brand? 90% of those boxes are exactly the same inside. That includes the Lincons, Clarks, Matco, Mac, etc. Craftsmans 100amp/110V MIG is exactly the same as my friends Lincon 100amp buzzbox. There is a tool store that has some no-name 100 amp buzzbox that's exactly the same as my 20 year old Mac Tools machine. I have a seperate 80amp Cebora machine from the same era as my Mac welder, and it's almost exactly identical. The functional parts (transformer, contactor, cables, gun, etc) are exactly the same, with small, differences in the hi/low swtichs and wire feeder.

Just realisticly assess your needs. Do you need perfect, aircraft quality welds? Do you need high speed? Do you need to weld heavy materials?

I agree a nice 220 machine would be ideal, but there's no point in doing so if you have not the need or finances to make it practical.

Just my $0.02

Edit: Oh, and as for your stated needs? He built his whole race car (83 Malibu) with his little buzzbox, wich is probably the same exact machine you showed with a different case. And definately get gas, flux core wire SUCKS!
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 01:04 PM
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i thought most cages were tig welded? or is that for chromoloys only?
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by wickedred
i thought most cages were tig welded? or is that for chromoloys only?
Mild Steel cages you can tig or mig, CM cages you have to tig
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete2k_Z28
There's nothing wrong with the little 110v buzzboxes. I know lots of people that get beautiful welds from them. You're not going to weld anything 2 inchs thick, but I doubt you'll have a use for that anyway.

As far as the brand? 90% of those boxes are exactly the same inside. That includes the Lincons, Clarks, Matco, Mac, etc. Craftsmans 100amp/110V MIG is exactly the same as my friends Lincon 100amp buzzbox. There is a tool store that has some no-name 100 amp buzzbox that's exactly the same as my 20 year old Mac Tools machine. I have a seperate 80amp Cebora machine from the same era as my Mac welder, and it's almost exactly identical. The functional parts (transformer, contactor, cables, gun, etc) are exactly the same, with small, differences in the hi/low swtichs and wire feeder.

Just realisticly assess your needs. Do you need perfect, aircraft quality welds? Do you need high speed? Do you need to weld heavy materials?

I agree a nice 220 machine would be ideal, but there's no point in doing so if you have not the need or finances to make it practical.

Just my $0.02

Edit: Oh, and as for your stated needs? He built his whole race car (83 Malibu) with his little buzzbox, wich is probably the same exact machine you showed with a different case. And definately get gas, flux core wire SUCKS!

now that answers all my questions, Thanks Pete2k, yep my needs are very limited to very small jobs. Nothing over the capabilities of a novice. I will get the gas conversion for sure, I don't mind ugly welds under the car, but on the cage they have to look somewhat decent Time to place an order
Thanks Pete.
Jeremy
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 03:36 PM
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thats not the link that i posted the link i posted was for a clarke 220V 180 amp mig welder with auto-darkening helmet. i will not buy a 110 welder due to the fact that many of them simply don't get hot enough when welding thicker metal.
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 04:15 PM
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If you make a little mess welding the cage, you can always sand it a little and throw some good body filler on the welds before painting, like Featherlite or similar. Bondo's kinda crappy. You'll need to remove the entire interior though, as mig will spatter a bit no matter what kind of welder you have. You can also use heavy, fire resistant blankets (cotton moving blankets work pretty good, not the fuzzy type but the other type) but keep a halon/CO2 fire extinguisher at the ready.

Also, when welding inside the car absolutely check what's on the other side of the panel. Fuel lines, wiring harness, etc. can and will be distroyed by the heat from welding if they are too close or touching the panel you're welding on, especially if you blow through the panel.

Stay ventilated too. Argon and/or Co2 is non-toxic and inert, but it does displace oxygen. Electric arcs also create Ozone, wich is toxic.
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 06:10 PM
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Thanks for the advice Pete, I will remember that when getting ready to start on it

*disclaimer for Cody Brooks* That link I listed above was to the same page/site as the 220v mig Cody Brooks listed, in now way does Cody Brooks codone using a 110v mig because they don't get hot enough when welding thicker metal. Please be advised Dude, seriously I am sure people aren't going to think less of you if you wanted a 220 or a 110 mig, I was just posting up a question about these Clarkes and if they were a good thing to get small jobs done with. Sorry I used your name. But hey thanks for posting up a good link, I just ordered my clarke mig 110 from there.
Jeremy
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Old Jan 30, 2004 | 06:20 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by frcefed98
Bad thing about a 220v is I would have to get a 220v outlet wired up in the garage. Money I don't have, the other bad thing about getting a more expensive welder is I am unemployed at the moment so I have little to spend on a welder, but now that I have a ton of free time on my hands I could get all the small welding jobs that I have to do knocked out if I had a good welder. Also saving money I don't have by doing the work myself and not taking the car to a shop.

So back to the original question, would the SPECIFIED welder above be able to handle the small tasks that I have planned for it, ie cage weld up, subframe connectors, small exhaust odds and ends? I appreciate the links to those nice high end welders but I was wondering if this lil one would do the jobs I listed

it is gas convertible which I plan on getting(conversion kit) here locally for cheap, I would like to have clean welds so that is why I am asking about this lil welder.
Thanks
with that welding machine you will be able to do exhaust work fine and small jobs like brakets and stuff like that,but to do cage and structural work you're better of with a TIG welder.
I'm ASE Cert. and just to do exhaust !
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Old Feb 27, 2004 | 05:21 PM
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I'm new on this forum ( I post on fullsize forums ) I have a miller 110-130 amp, Had it for 7 years with no problems. I use argon/Co2 shielding gas (Flux core is for ranch hands) I welded a 8 point cage in a friends ruststang as well as the subframe connectors. The welder performed great no complaints. I think one thing that was not mentioned is if you use a thicker gauge wire i.e .035 you can weld thicker metal. I use .024 for sheet metal/body work
and building r/v gates etc. Also I highly recommend a anti spatter spray and/or nozzle dip. both are used to prevent slag from sticking to the gun nozzle. I use the dip myself, just weld and occasionally dip it in to coat it, kinda looks like wheel bearing grease. Go with MILLER! it comes with a 3yr true blue warranty against defects.
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