Crank Pulley Install Tool
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,649
Likes: 9
From: Warr Acres, OK
Originally Posted by S_J_H
not sure I would call that a tool. Looks like a stud, a nut and couple washers to me.
Seriously, What it is really missing is a bearing!
I have a good balancer install tool with about 8 different inserts that thread inside a huge stud for different cranks.
Unfortuneatly no insert for the ls1 crank.
But trust me the bearing takes a lot of load off the stud threads and makes the install much much easier. It does have a wrench head on the stud as well.
Add a bearing to your kit and it will last a whole hell of a lot longer before you strip the stud and nut.
Seriously, What it is really missing is a bearing!
I have a good balancer install tool with about 8 different inserts that thread inside a huge stud for different cranks.
Unfortuneatly no insert for the ls1 crank.
But trust me the bearing takes a lot of load off the stud threads and makes the install much much easier. It does have a wrench head on the stud as well.
Add a bearing to your kit and it will last a whole hell of a lot longer before you strip the stud and nut.
Why don't you do that and keep the cost at $25 shipped and make it worth the time and trouble to even mess with. And don't forget the $2/gal gas you burn every time you run to the post office. Also, the stud I sell is class 8.8 and the nut is class 10.8. Keep the threads lubricated and it will not strip. 
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 596
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From: Downers Grove,IL
Thanks for sharing. Why don't you do that and keep the cost at $25 shipped and make it worth the time and trouble to even mess with. And don't forget the $2/gal gas you burn every time you run to the post office. Also, the stud I sell is class 8.8 and the nut is class 10.8. Keep the threads lubricated and it will not strip.
Why don't you do that and keep the cost at $25 shipped and make it worth the time and trouble to even mess with. And don't forget the $2/gal gas you burn every time you run to the post office. Also, the stud I sell is class 8.8 and the nut is class 10.8. Keep the threads lubricated and it will not strip.
Metric class 10.9 is equal to Grade 8.I made one like yours and with a tight fitting damper like the ATI it stripped out after about 3 -4 uses.
I now use a long Class 12.9 bolt along with a bearing and it works great.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,649
Likes: 9
From: Warr Acres, OK
Originally Posted by S_J_H
Just trying to help. First off, those bearings are dirt cheap! 2nd, Metric class 8.8 is only equal to Standard Grade 5! Metric class 10.9 is equal to Grade 8.
I made one like yours and with a tight fitting damper like the ATI it stripped out after about 3 -4 uses.
I now use a long Class 12.9 bolt along with a bearing and it works great.
Metric class 10.9 is equal to Grade 8.I made one like yours and with a tight fitting damper like the ATI it stripped out after about 3 -4 uses.
I now use a long Class 12.9 bolt along with a bearing and it works great.
I welded an LS1 crank bolt (with the head cut off naturally) to one of those snap on balancer installers with the inserts - works fine but that installer cost like 90.00 and after breaking off the SBC and BBC inserts it was just laying around. I have pulled enough threads out of various cranks over the years using a bolt to pull the balancer on and the stud/nut is the safest you can get.
I have used the same setup like 2xLS1 had been using for a while before that and can probably get 10 installs out of it if I'm carefull, I have no idea what grade the threaded rod was though. What happens a lot is the washers will start gouging the threads on the stud when they spin and the nut gets jammed, the bearing would help some in that case. S_J_H is far from being a troll, he was just pointing out some weaknesses. I dont think its a bad deal for occasional use, that 25.00 is a heck of a lot cheaper then the sinking feeling you will get when you pull the first couple threads out of your crank using the stock bolt to pull the balancer on
If you dont have access to a place that sells that threaded rod or a nut that size its a fair deal considering thats the shipped price...
I have used the same setup like 2xLS1 had been using for a while before that and can probably get 10 installs out of it if I'm carefull, I have no idea what grade the threaded rod was though. What happens a lot is the washers will start gouging the threads on the stud when they spin and the nut gets jammed, the bearing would help some in that case. S_J_H is far from being a troll, he was just pointing out some weaknesses. I dont think its a bad deal for occasional use, that 25.00 is a heck of a lot cheaper then the sinking feeling you will get when you pull the first couple threads out of your crank using the stock bolt to pull the balancer on
If you dont have access to a place that sells that threaded rod or a nut that size its a fair deal considering thats the shipped price...
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 596
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From: Downers Grove,IL
I sure get tired of defending my product to trolls like you. Here is an idea. If you don't like what I'm selling and think you can do better than buying the tool I sell, go ahead.
Good luck with your tool.
Steve
Steve is hardly a troll. I think he was just trying to help out by suggesting a way for you to improve your product. I've seen those bearing type presses and they work great for very difficult pulleys. Maybe you could source some of those bearings and offer them as an upgrade (at additional cost of course) for those guys that need one.
The simple one works great for me, its not like I swap pulleys more than a couple times per year.
The simple one works great for me, its not like I swap pulleys more than a couple times per year.
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TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
I think it is an excellent idea to use an installer tool. Hey a set of busted crank threads is a REAL problem!
If you don't like the one offered here, www.JCW.com - sells a tool for $29 (Part sf147601B). It has eight threaded attachments for EVERY different motor application - foreign and domestic!
If you don't like the one offered here, www.JCW.com - sells a tool for $29 (Part sf147601B). It has eight threaded attachments for EVERY different motor application - foreign and domestic!
From this POV, it appears the real advantage using a stud and nut configuration as opposed to a bolt is that the bolt grands against the threads the entire length of the threads inside the crank when installing the pulley. The initial force is all on a few threads as well.
The stud version pulls against ALL the available threads and doesn't grind against them.
A great idea!
And like it has been stated ... buy his for $25 delivered or spend $20, 1/2 a day chasing parts and fab your own.
The stud version pulls against ALL the available threads and doesn't grind against them.
A great idea!
And like it has been stated ... buy his for $25 delivered or spend $20, 1/2 a day chasing parts and fab your own.
