Professional Aluminum tig welders in the Houston area
04-14-2014, 09:18 PM
#22
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I did a little practicing tonight. I thought I had bought a 3/32 gas lens, but when I pulled all my stuff out of the bag, I bought two 1/16. So I had to use a regular setup. Anyway, the gold tungsten appeared to work much better.
Now for this practice, I weld 2 pieces of 1" square tubing, 1/8" wall, 6061-T6 together. I was extremely **** with prep. Used a scotchbrite disk to prep the area (on a recommendation from a youtube video), and wiped everything down with acetone including the filler rods. I also used brand new tig gloves so everything was very clean.
I tried various settings on the machine. Different combos from 50-80 balance and 150-250 Hz frequency. 50-55 seemed to work the best. 150-250 didn't seem to change weld quality much.....except that there was an obvious difference in arc wander.
Couple questions:
1. Maybe I was getting in a hurry, but toward the end of my session, the puddle just seemed to "wash out". Was this because the work piece was getting too hot?
2. I produced my best welds with the balance at 50-55. This is lower than what is recommended, but it seemed to produce the best results for me. What are your thoughts?
3. Torch angle seemed very sensitive. I really responded well with the torch angled into the weld as opposed to more perpendicular. Does that sound about right?
4. Weld quality seemed very dependent on the distance from the work piece to the tungsten. At first and previously, it seems that maybe I was too close. Backing the torch away a bit seemed to improve the weld. What distance is optimal?
Now for this practice, I weld 2 pieces of 1" square tubing, 1/8" wall, 6061-T6 together. I was extremely **** with prep. Used a scotchbrite disk to prep the area (on a recommendation from a youtube video), and wiped everything down with acetone including the filler rods. I also used brand new tig gloves so everything was very clean.
I tried various settings on the machine. Different combos from 50-80 balance and 150-250 Hz frequency. 50-55 seemed to work the best. 150-250 didn't seem to change weld quality much.....except that there was an obvious difference in arc wander.
Couple questions:
1. Maybe I was getting in a hurry, but toward the end of my session, the puddle just seemed to "wash out". Was this because the work piece was getting too hot?
2. I produced my best welds with the balance at 50-55. This is lower than what is recommended, but it seemed to produce the best results for me. What are your thoughts?
3. Torch angle seemed very sensitive. I really responded well with the torch angled into the weld as opposed to more perpendicular. Does that sound about right?
4. Weld quality seemed very dependent on the distance from the work piece to the tungsten. At first and previously, it seems that maybe I was too close. Backing the torch away a bit seemed to improve the weld. What distance is optimal?
Question:
I ran some practice beads with 5356 and 4043 filler rod. It appears to me that the 5356 has a more dull finish to it. Does that make sense?
Also, I noticed a texture in the bead when finished. More so with the 5356 than the 4043, but the texture is kind of rough looking. I've been looking at some professional aluminum welds and don't see this texture. Whats the deal with this?
I ran some practice beads with 5356 and 4043 filler rod. It appears to me that the 5356 has a more dull finish to it. Does that make sense?
Also, I noticed a texture in the bead when finished. More so with the 5356 than the 4043, but the texture is kind of rough looking. I've been looking at some professional aluminum welds and don't see this texture. Whats the deal with this?
5356 vs 4043 really wont make much of a difference...5356 is more for guys that anodize their part when they're finished. which is why i use it, because some of my customers get their intercoolers and charge pipes ano'd.
06-26-2014, 01:19 AM
#24
Okay, I'm bumping this back up and am just completely frustrated at this point. I'm convinced my filler rod is garbage. No matter what I do (and I think I have tried everything), my weld are dirty.
I can run a great shinny like a mirror bead with no filler.
Anytime I start to add filler, the weld just goes to ****. I've tried wiping the filler down with acetone and even hit the filler with scotchbrite and acetone and as soon as I dip it it gets dirty and puddle control goes away.
Does this make sense?
My filler rod is probably several years old if that matters.
I can run a great shinny like a mirror bead with no filler.
Anytime I start to add filler, the weld just goes to ****. I've tried wiping the filler down with acetone and even hit the filler with scotchbrite and acetone and as soon as I dip it it gets dirty and puddle control goes away.
Does this make sense?
My filler rod is probably several years old if that matters.
06-27-2014, 12:57 AM
#26
I read a thread in another forum concerning contaminated filler rod and the guys on that site where more concerned with the gas flow of the original poster. After reading I went out to try a few things and laid down the best aluminum welds I have ever done, and on an unprepped piece of polished 4" tubing and unprepped filler rod (both 4303 and 5356).
I have been using the 3/32 tungsten, but didn't have a gas lense for that size. So I put my gas lense on and threw a piece of 1/16 Gold in there. Turned the amps down to 70 and turned the gas flow up to 17scfm.
Granted, I didn't have much penetration with the amperage set that low, but anything higher would burn the gold tungsten up. Best looking welds I have ever done.
I'm assuming that my issue was the gas flow as well seeing as how I was just using a shitty small regular cup and the gas was at 11-12 scfm.
I'm gonna get a lense for the 3/32 stuff, and see what it's like.
This aluminum **** is picky!
I have been using the 3/32 tungsten, but didn't have a gas lense for that size. So I put my gas lense on and threw a piece of 1/16 Gold in there. Turned the amps down to 70 and turned the gas flow up to 17scfm.
Granted, I didn't have much penetration with the amperage set that low, but anything higher would burn the gold tungsten up. Best looking welds I have ever done.
I'm assuming that my issue was the gas flow as well seeing as how I was just using a shitty small regular cup and the gas was at 11-12 scfm.
I'm gonna get a lense for the 3/32 stuff, and see what it's like.
This aluminum **** is picky!
07-02-2014, 08:46 PM
#27
I tried aluminum with my machine (200ac/dc eastwood) and it puddled bad and looked dirty I have a bunch of green tungsten to practice with and some scrap intercooler piping. A buddy of mine said it was dirty and try cleaning with alcohol and scotch bright. As I get more time off I'll try it out
07-07-2014, 07:34 PM
#29
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07-09-2014, 12:27 AM
#32
How much penetration should I be getting?
In some spots there is none, in some spots you can see that it's just starting to come through, and in other spots its is getting full penetration.
I would assume that the weld should almost look identical on the backside, however in spots where I have this much penetration, it looks like the weld is cracked along the part line where the two pieces are joined.
Learn me about this. Do I need to slow down or crank up the heat a bit or what?
In some spots there is none, in some spots you can see that it's just starting to come through, and in other spots its is getting full penetration.
I would assume that the weld should almost look identical on the backside, however in spots where I have this much penetration, it looks like the weld is cracked along the part line where the two pieces are joined.
Learn me about this. Do I need to slow down or crank up the heat a bit or what?
07-09-2014, 01:31 PM
#33
9 Second Club
I think in reality...if going full on, then yes the inside should look like the outside, but this might also require backpurging the inside of the pipes with Argon too ?
Otherwise if you do get good penetration, it can end up a mess inside ?
I'm content to have low penetration, clean pipes inside and pipes that hold together. I know that if I try and go slower, or use more power...it'll end up in holes lol
Otherwise if you do get good penetration, it can end up a mess inside ?
I'm content to have low penetration, clean pipes inside and pipes that hold together. I know that if I try and go slower, or use more power...it'll end up in holes lol
07-10-2014, 01:23 AM
#34
Yea, these cold side pipes aren't under a ton of stress (the pushing pulling kind), so I don't think that there would be much of a problem without completely penetrating the tubing.
They are under the stress of pressure though.
I've never broken one at a weld joint, so it can't be too bad. If one was going to break at the joint from poor welding it would have been one of mine so far, and it hasn't happened.
They are under the stress of pressure though.
I've never broken one at a weld joint, so it can't be too bad. If one was going to break at the joint from poor welding it would have been one of mine so far, and it hasn't happened.
07-12-2014, 09:02 PM
#35
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if you're getting a convexed weld (dome shaped) don't worry so much about penetration. now if you're getting a concaved weld (under cut, bowl shaped) then penetration needs to be addressed, and perfected.
I've got thousands of hours of aluminum tig welding under my belt with zero failures, and stick to my convex weld theories. if you can tell you're penetrating into the surrounding area and getting a convex, then concentrate and making it look pretty and use it
I've got thousands of hours of aluminum tig welding under my belt with zero failures, and stick to my convex weld theories. if you can tell you're penetrating into the surrounding area and getting a convex, then concentrate and making it look pretty and use it
07-15-2014, 06:43 PM
#37
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08-22-2014, 10:33 AM
#39
So how is the Welding coming along?
Here is some of my welding with a Dynasty 200 water cooled, wireless foot control (not that it matters, but giving all the info I have). This is all using 1/16" 5350 filler rod, 18-20 on pure argon, .093 (3/32) 2% Lanthanated tungsten, with medium gas lens, and a #8 cup not back purged.
The GSXR Turbo Intake is 6061 .125" aluminum, was welded with the Dynasty setup
The 4" Charge pipe for a TT Caddy, is .062" Vibrant material. Was welded with a Miller Syncrowave 200 air cooled, wireless foot control. Same setup up on the rod, gas, tungsten, and gas lens, ect. Showing that the welding machine doesn't make too much of a difference.
Let me know, I can try to help out.
Here is some of my welding with a Dynasty 200 water cooled, wireless foot control (not that it matters, but giving all the info I have). This is all using 1/16" 5350 filler rod, 18-20 on pure argon, .093 (3/32) 2% Lanthanated tungsten, with medium gas lens, and a #8 cup not back purged.
The GSXR Turbo Intake is 6061 .125" aluminum, was welded with the Dynasty setup
The 4" Charge pipe for a TT Caddy, is .062" Vibrant material. Was welded with a Miller Syncrowave 200 air cooled, wireless foot control. Same setup up on the rod, gas, tungsten, and gas lens, ect. Showing that the welding machine doesn't make too much of a difference.
Let me know, I can try to help out.
Last edited by SNLPerformance; 08-22-2014 at 10:47 AM.