DIY electric cut out
 

Has anyone tried making their own E-Cut out?

With all the great parts that McMaster Carr and Granger have, I would of thought that someone did this by now.

I just thought about something.... I wonder if the DBW Throttle body would work, lol... It can take the heat of the engine bay, I wonder if it would hold up as a E-Cutout?!

The collectors on my LT are 3.5" and the standard TB seems to be 90mm / 3.54"... Hmmm....

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y20...p_ls2_14_z.jpg

interesting idea!

I wonder which TB would be better suited for this type of mod. I would think the LS2 since everything is encased in metal, but that's just a guess.


90mm Truck -

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...ps12b23468.png

90mm LS2 -

http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/...psb9b18bd7.jpg

Good idea.. Subd on this

I hope more people will get in on this discussion! I'm not a fabricator, I just come up with cool ideas, lol...

It would be pretty simple. Just need to make a "dump" with the same bolt pattern as the TB you want to use. Then find a OEM style connector that would typically plug into the TB to send a regulating voltage to it.

Would need to have a button or switch that supplies the needed voltage to the TB to open a specified amount.

I'm not 100% on what the operating range of the TB is, but if it is 0V-5V then you can have a potentiometer style knob in the cabin that can vary the angle of the TB based on the turning of the knob. Kind of like an amplifier adjustable "gain" knob.

Some have made a cutout using a mechanical/cable driven TB. Using a "choke" cable to open/close the TB.

Oooo... I like that idea! That way you know if your cut out is half open or fully open, but the make on the knob. Not sure if there's a legit point to having it half or quarter open, but cool idea!

My biggest worry would be longevity. How it does with the heat and the elements. I know it gets hot under the hood, but sitting that close to the collector is a different story. As for the manual TB, I was looking at solenoid that could be mounted in a different spot, away from the heat of the collector.Something like a remote oil filter or water pump, etc.

This is a fantastic idea. Subscribed!

The speed shop that I trust said that ALL electric cutouts fail. Some last longer than others. Heat is your biggest issue. I believe it since it is simply an electric motor...and electric motors hat heat. If this is a weekend warrior...then it may last a while.

Either make a "remote mount" method, or make a good heat barrier.

Mine is slowly starting to fail so I can back this up only having been on my car for 6 years now and shop wont repair it either since the company is out of biz :engarde: so this thread intrigues me too but mainly on maintenance aspect! Cheers everyone

Unless someone has found a replacement motor for these cutouts it will always be an issue. It would be nice to somehow spec out a power seat motor, or window motor etc.

I wouldn't imagine that these cutout motors are specifically designed/made for cutout applications. Someone needs to take one apart and see if you can find a P/N on it.

good idea.... but I don't this its gunna hold up. Your looking at exhaust temps in the 400-1400* range. depending on the location of the cutout, but its HOT and I don't believe the internals of the throttle body are going to hold up well. Now I will admit that I COULD be wrong, but I don't think its gunna work for very long.

Well I'm not the first to come up with this idea, lol...

This first guy used an LS1 cable driven TB, a Camaro window motor and Camaro window switch, lol...

I wonder if a TPI or LT1 TB would work for something like this, even though they're dual bladed. I think it would work as a "low profile" cut out.

TB off a TPI:

http://www.corvetteforum.net/bss/rom...ra/cleantb.jpg


TB off a LT1:

http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/f...s/CAM_2097.jpg

Since heat kills, use a cable-driven throttle body and remote-mount the motor... just like the traction-control was set up for 4th gen f-bodies. That way you end up only needing to replace the cable. And space won't be as much of an issue.

A typical throttle body electric style stays open slightly at idle so it would have a leak
that would sound like crap

I can say for a fact I made a cable driven tb cutout and it works and does not leak at all. The small hole has to be blocked off with bolt and nut. I started it when I messed up the iac and broke a couple of screws off and I was putting cutout that was going to have to be unbolted to open. So I made a flange and bolted it to my pipe and no leaks so I made cable that entered between my seat and console mainly so no one can see it and laugh when they find out its a throttle body!

Nice, any pics?