cam install rods? what size?
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: LONG ISLAND, NY; MADE IN THE USA
cam install rods? what size? i've seen the 5/16's rod and 3/16's rod wrapped in velcro to be the best setup; if anyone has a better idea let me know, i've got the puller and can fab the valve spring(looks like it can be made for < 5 bucks), thanks; now if the corvetteforum could only get a secton like this.....
I used 5/16th rods and I used a valve spring compressor from autozone. It was a little difficult on the back springs, but I didn't have to waste the time making the other one or worry about breaking anything off in my heads either. Good luck!
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From: Simi Valley, CA
5/16" rod in both sides of the block (no velcro needed). Also, I'd highly recommend the Crane valvespring tool. A little pricey, but definately a quality piece and worth the money. It made the swap go very smooth.
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From: Hartsdale, NY
I did my cam and heads in one shot so I did not need anything to hold up the lifters. I heard, however, that you can buy rods now that do the trick if you are changing a cam without changing the heads.
Before these were invented, people used pen magnets and some even trusted the plastic holders that are installed in the engine from the factory.
Before these were invented, people used pen magnets and some even trusted the plastic holders that are installed in the engine from the factory.
atleast 22 inches to get all the way into the back of the block plus some to have a handle. i just used so cold rolled from lowes about $3-4 for the pair in 3 foot sections and cut them down some and put a 90 degree bend on the end.
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Originally Posted by Cody Brooks
atleast 22 inches to get all the way into the back of the block plus some to have a handle. i just used so cold rolled from lowes about $3-4 for the pair in 3 foot sections and cut them down some and put a 90 degree bend on the end.
Jim K.
Last edited by Corpsvette; Jun 5, 2005 at 12:07 PM. Reason: spelling error
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Verdad Gallardo this method will work on all ls-based engines to my knowledge as the hole that the rods go through is an oil passage in the block. many people recommend this method but many are doing head/cam kits so holding the lifters up is not an issue.
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Originally Posted by Cody Brooks
atleast 22 inches to get all the way into the back of the block plus some to have a handle. i just used so cold rolled from lowes about $3-4 for the pair in 3 foot sections and cut them down some and put a 90 degree bend on the end.
Originally Posted by Corpsvette
I am guessing this is to keep the lifters from dropping. IS this a newly discovered innovation. Will this methods work for C5's? I am guessing it will since they are both LS1's. Seems to beat buying 16 magnet pens that I can't find. So what is the catch and why don't more people recommend this? Sorry for all the questions, I am just looking at a cam install in the garage and this is one thing that concerns me. Thanks,
Jim K.
Jim K.
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Okay, guess my next question is where do you insert these things. Sorry but they didn't use this for the CAM install I am following on LS1HowTo. It would be great if someone had pics or a web site for the install that shows this. As you can tell, I am a newbie. Can't believe I am about to tear into a $50,000 car. What am I thinking? 
Thanks,
Jim K.
Thanks,Jim K.
On the LS1HowTo page, use the rods in place of the JRP tool. There are two holes in about the 10 and 2 o'clock position above the cam. You will see them when you pull the cam gear off. Good luck! Oh, and to answer your other questions. "What am I thinking?" Same thing the rest of us. Must go faster....