FireSilverLullaby

iTrader: (5)

I want to get a welder to weld a new exhuast sytem on my camaro. What is the cheapest welder that is good enough to get the job done .

Thanks

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Not to hijack yout thread too much, but is an arc ok for exhaust becuause I bought a welder today that is an arc but you can get an adapter kit to make it MIG. Id it ok for exhaust to just stick with the arc??

oange ss

iTrader: (50)

Lincoln Weld Pak 10 goes for about 349.00...and arc welding an exhaust would be almost impossible, especially on the car

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

actually, it's easier to get a stick into hard to reach places(like the top of the exhuast pipe) if you are welding the pipe with it on the car, because you can bend the stick to reach........if you can stick weld, that would be fine to do the car with......as far as getting a welder to do exhuast, any basic one should do the job, even just using a flux core mig would be fine(and you won't need any gas).....

72ChevelleConv.LS1

iTrader: (5)

No I would not use a stick welder for thin pipe. you didn't say what type metal you will be using. if stainless, mig welds will rust. Tig can use SS rod and will not rust. if steel then any mig should work well. when migging exaust, a tip is make the weld hot enough to burn through the steel if you were running a bead, but do small 1/4" welds around the pipe till complete. I have seen so many beginner welders (including me at one time) not using enough heat. the weld will stay on top of the steel and dosn't hold things togeather. hope it helps.

xaon

iTrader: (12)

just get any mig that uses a shielding gas. If you use a flux-core wire you will have pin-hole sized leaks everywhere. Exhaust pipe is thin, so you don't need anything big, a 100amp mig would be fine, just make sure it has the capability for a shielding gas.

boondiggys

iTrader: (165)

fluxcored welders have many advantages...some of which can even weld deeper as opposed to using gas...flux is great outdoors because it doesnt use any gas.....when welding with gas outdoors you will find yourself unable to work because the wind blows the shielding away...

pin holes create weak welds....

If you use FLUX you have to make sure your work is clean before welding....if theres some extra slag on the previous weld and you continue over top, thats where the pin holes apear...

IF FLUX,,, MAKE SURE YOUR WORK IS CLEAN, cant stress this enough...

flux is cheaper to use, but using a gas makes your work cleaner.

i do my work on a small lincoln 3500 mig..flux cored welder, but has the hook ups for gas...bought at home depot for like 450 bucks....cheap and easy to learn on ...it came with a small hand held shield which i thinks useless....get yourself a helmet, so you can have 2 hands on the gun.

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

We primarily use Miller...HTP has some cost efficient welders. Make sure your coils are copper, check the duty cycle. Many companies can be deceiving with what their product offers. Certainly offering tiny 100 amp welder @ 20% duty cycle doesn't cut even most small jobs.

Figure for every amp you can weld 1 thousandth of an inch...this means a 100 amp welder can weld .100 of an inch material for 2 minutes, then it will either shut down (if protected), or you can burn up the coils. Choose a gas welder.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

The welded area rusting has very little to do with the process(mig, tig, stick or gas) and EVERYTHING to do with the filler metal and shielding gas(and/or with flux core, using the correct type)......if you are welding stainless, you can use a mig, but you need to use the right shielding gas and filler, or use the correct type of flux core.....it's not like you can tig weld stainless with a mild steel filler rod and get it corrosion resistant......

flux core welding mild steel exhaust works great, but cleanliness is even more important, because flux core welding just doens't have the cleaning action that gas shielding does.

if the pipe is thin and rusty, then yeah, stick welding it would be a pain, but you get a 1/16 rod and you should be able to stick together some exhaust.....

or if you have an acetylene torch already you could go old school and gas weld it.......