Plumbing shop for air
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 1
From: Waco, TX
Plumbing shop for air Well, I started plumbing my shop last night for air. I've attached a couple of pics - of parts, of the first 'leg' of progress (the "up link" from the air compressor), and the overall schematic that I'm sort of working on (not following it exactly, as I just threw it together quickly).
I've never sweated copper pipe before, it's... interesting.
Not quite like my electronic soldering.
I was buying some more fittings today from the local mom n pop hardware store, and they asked if I'd take a freebie of a product and try it out.
Anyone ever heard of this:
http://www.justforcopper.com/Default.htm
They gave me a tube of it for free (priced at $13). Supposedly forms a chemical bond between the copper pieces, so you don't need heat or solder. Supposed to be good to 500PSI, 275 degrees F, -40F, and drinking water safe (thought that doesn't matter for me). Was just wondering if anyone had used it... it sure looks easier than sweating those pipes at 10 feet in the air, right next to my insulation!
I'll post progress pics as I get it done. I have yet to buy the compressor, and the air filtering and regulation isn't here yet.
I'm using Schedule L copper - 3/4" from the compressor and for the main lines (ring around top of shop), and 1/2" for the down drops. Ball valves at the end of each drop for water release.
I've never sweated copper pipe before, it's... interesting.
Not quite like my electronic soldering.I was buying some more fittings today from the local mom n pop hardware store, and they asked if I'd take a freebie of a product and try it out.
Anyone ever heard of this:
http://www.justforcopper.com/Default.htm
They gave me a tube of it for free (priced at $13). Supposedly forms a chemical bond between the copper pieces, so you don't need heat or solder. Supposed to be good to 500PSI, 275 degrees F, -40F, and drinking water safe (thought that doesn't matter for me). Was just wondering if anyone had used it... it sure looks easier than sweating those pipes at 10 feet in the air, right next to my insulation!
I'll post progress pics as I get it done. I have yet to buy the compressor, and the air filtering and regulation isn't here yet.
I'm using Schedule L copper - 3/4" from the compressor and for the main lines (ring around top of shop), and 1/2" for the down drops. Ball valves at the end of each drop for water release.
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 1
From: Waco, TX
Yah. PVC can (and will) explode. Black pipe will rust quickly. Galvanized is heavy and would (probably) be harder to deal with, unless I got a pipe threader (because of the funky way I'll have to route it). That left me with copper. Schedule M is lighter wall, Schedule L is thicker wall. Copper also cools the air and helps condense the moisture, which is good for painting (which is my eventual goal).
I figure I'd do it once, do it right, and have something that'll last for years.
I figure I'd do it once, do it right, and have something that'll last for years.
Looks good! I never thought of using copper. I used PVC in my garage. Works great for me. Never had it explode though. I did have one of the connections blow loose (didn't have enough glue). Talk about scaring the hell out of someone! My only advice is to put the water seperator/filter as far away from the compressor as possible (looks like you did in the pic). I have a huge compressor, but it's only single stage so when I use a DA, the compressor runs a lot...which in turn builds up lots of water. For me, the only way I could filter out all the water was to put the seperator after about 25ft of pipe.
Check www.garagejunkies.net as there are quite a few good posts on using copper piping for the air compressor conduit.
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 1
From: Waco, TX
Nice site Levi. 
The big copper tubing thread shows how the guy built the setup in the link that I posted (I got the link from autobody101.com).
Well, an update. I worked some Friday night, and some this afternoon / evening. Slow but steady progress. Some pics attached.
The big copper tubing thread shows how the guy built the setup in the link that I posted (I got the link from autobody101.com).Well, an update. I worked some Friday night, and some this afternoon / evening. Slow but steady progress. Some pics attached.
PVC is bad news for any long term installation. I did
that at my last house, but when I went to strip out
the good valves & fittings for moving it all just
shattered into bits. It embrittles with the oil and
oxygen, and could frag you at any time.
Sweating copper is all about the prep. With good
inside & outside brushes and a tub of the tinning flux
then it goes smooth and easy, it -wants- the solder.
But if it's greasy dirty as-delivered tubing, forget it.
that at my last house, but when I went to strip out
the good valves & fittings for moving it all just
shattered into bits. It embrittles with the oil and
oxygen, and could frag you at any time.
Sweating copper is all about the prep. With good
inside & outside brushes and a tub of the tinning flux
then it goes smooth and easy, it -wants- the solder.
But if it's greasy dirty as-delivered tubing, forget it.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 1
From: Waco, TX
I'm cleaning both the tubes and the fittings with steel wool (they look so shiny and pretty when I do that, tempted to polish and clear coat all of it 
). I then apply flux to both the tube and the fitting, push 'em together, heat it until the fitting turns a touch green, and dab on the solder. Hopefully that'll suffice for preventing any leaks.
Have only misapplied flame direction on one joint (bubbled a bit of the wall insulation - oops!
). I'm using a piece of sheet metal as a heat shield when doing in-place sweating... that is, if I remember to grab it. Which I will now, thanks to that new spot on the wall...
). I then apply flux to both the tube and the fitting, push 'em together, heat it until the fitting turns a touch green, and dab on the solder. Hopefully that'll suffice for preventing any leaks.Have only misapplied flame direction on one joint (bubbled a bit of the wall insulation - oops!
). I'm using a piece of sheet metal as a heat shield when doing in-place sweating... that is, if I remember to grab it. Which I will now, thanks to that new spot on the wall... LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Hey we all do goofy stuff like that. I was welding up some holes in the sheet metal under the hood of my Mustang this weekend, and being lazy I didn't want to pull the inner fender liner out. It now has a hole in it 
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
From: Anchorage Alaska
All good suggestions for soldering copper, like any thing practice makes perfect. The chemical bonding system probably works fine though I have no personal experience with it, might be a good idea if your unsure of torch control around flamables.
I used copper in my shop as well but used m pipe as its cheaper. L pipe is probably over kill but it won't fail as an air line in this century.
Not often I can throw out plumbing advise on this forum.
I used copper in my shop as well but used m pipe as its cheaper. L pipe is probably over kill but it won't fail as an air line in this century.
Not often I can throw out plumbing advise on this forum.
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 1
From: Waco, TX
I have learned something valuable.
In a 30 x 30 shop, you need to be careful when assembling a straight 20' run of copper tubing. The floor is probably not the best place to do it. Though I was able to wiggle it up and over the garage door (narrowly missing my buddy's car that's on my lift), it was... interesting to put in to place. 
Here's a couple of progress pics from tonight. Storms in the area, so I came in early (as I put my Suburban in my shop - that thing fills it up to the point that I can't work).
Pictures are of my pegboard area, where my tool air supply filter and regulator will be mounted. I put a backing of doubled-up half inch plywood behind the pegboard to provide a good surface to drill in to for mounting the filter/regulator.
Final picture is the 20' run across the top of the shop. I'm about 3' short on 3/4" tubing
I bought 60 feet of it... shoulda bought 70. Oh well.
In a 30 x 30 shop, you need to be careful when assembling a straight 20' run of copper tubing. The floor is probably not the best place to do it.
Though I was able to wiggle it up and over the garage door (narrowly missing my buddy's car that's on my lift), it was... interesting to put in to place. Here's a couple of progress pics from tonight. Storms in the area, so I came in early (as I put my Suburban in my shop - that thing fills it up to the point that I can't work).
Pictures are of my pegboard area, where my tool air supply filter and regulator will be mounted. I put a backing of doubled-up half inch plywood behind the pegboard to provide a good surface to drill in to for mounting the filter/regulator.
Final picture is the 20' run across the top of the shop. I'm about 3' short on 3/4" tubing
I bought 60 feet of it... shoulda bought 70. Oh well. Last edited by Camaroholic; Apr 6, 2006 at 09:43 PM.
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 1
From: Waco, TX
Worked on it some more today.
Tried out that Just for Copper. TWO THUMBS WAY DOWN.
I applied per the instructions. Seemed to grab and hold pretty quickly. I went off to do something, and about 30 minutes later, came back to the joint, and started adding additional pipe. Tink. The joint twists. It's loose. Great. Apparently it works well on fore-aft forces, but for twisting, it sucks. I only did 3 joints with it, and 2 of them failed with twisting motion (it's supposed to be fully set within a few minutes).
I'm taking it back to the store, let them give it to somebody else. I'm not using it again. If it held, it would have been nice and pretty quick. But it didn't.
Anyhow, got the first regulator (for tools) plumbed up. Just need to add a hose outlet connection here. I'll probably add a tool oiler later. This is a cheap Harbor Freight regulator... and cheap it is. I may replace it with a Sharpe unit later.
Finished the run across the top of the shop, and started on the wall where the 3 filters will be mounted for the paint gun stuff. I've plumbed up the drop, but haven't soldered any of these connections yet (I'll do that tomorrow). Then I'll have to sit down and make a list of what fittings I need to attach what to what, and make yet another trip to the hardware store (fortunately, there's one right next door to my work, so I can walk there during lunch).
Tried out that Just for Copper. TWO THUMBS WAY DOWN.
I applied per the instructions. Seemed to grab and hold pretty quickly. I went off to do something, and about 30 minutes later, came back to the joint, and started adding additional pipe. Tink. The joint twists. It's loose. Great. Apparently it works well on fore-aft forces, but for twisting, it sucks. I only did 3 joints with it, and 2 of them failed with twisting motion (it's supposed to be fully set within a few minutes).I'm taking it back to the store, let them give it to somebody else. I'm not using it again. If it held, it would have been nice and pretty quick. But it didn't.
Anyhow, got the first regulator (for tools) plumbed up. Just need to add a hose outlet connection here. I'll probably add a tool oiler later. This is a cheap Harbor Freight regulator... and cheap it is. I may replace it with a Sharpe unit later.
Finished the run across the top of the shop, and started on the wall where the 3 filters will be mounted for the paint gun stuff. I've plumbed up the drop, but haven't soldered any of these connections yet (I'll do that tomorrow). Then I'll have to sit down and make a list of what fittings I need to attach what to what, and make yet another trip to the hardware store (fortunately, there's one right next door to my work, so I can walk there during lunch).
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 1
From: Waco, TX
Getting closer... finished the "tools" wall, and finished sweating the paint wall. Have to mount up the 3 filters and 50' intercooler coil on the paint wall.
Looking forward to finishing this up and trying it out.
Looking forward to finishing this up and trying it out.
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 1
From: Waco, TX
Thanks.
I got started on the intercooler. It's going to be mounted above the filters, on a shelf that's glued in to place.
I bought a 50' coil of copper. I cut off a few inches, heated it up, and poked a hole in an igloo cooler. Coiled the copper 'round a big nitrous bottle I had laying around and fed it through the hole. Boom.
The purpose of this is to cool the air so that moisture condenses and drops out in to the 2nd paint filter (there are 3 paint filters - a 40 micron, a 5 micron, and a .01 micron). This moisture will drop out in to the 5 micron one. The goal is as clean, moisture free air as I can get.
I have gone insane at this point.
Tomorrow, something big arrives...
I got started on the intercooler. It's going to be mounted above the filters, on a shelf that's glued in to place.
I bought a 50' coil of copper. I cut off a few inches, heated it up, and poked a hole in an igloo cooler. Coiled the copper 'round a big nitrous bottle I had laying around
and fed it through the hole. Boom.The purpose of this is to cool the air so that moisture condenses and drops out in to the 2nd paint filter (there are 3 paint filters - a 40 micron, a 5 micron, and a .01 micron). This moisture will drop out in to the 5 micron one. The goal is as clean, moisture free air as I can get.
I have gone insane at this point.
Tomorrow, something big arrives...
Originally Posted by Camaroholic
It's here.
I-R 2340L5... 5 hp, 60 gallon, 14.7-ish CFM @ 175 psi. Hopefully it'll be enough to paint.
I-R 2340L5... 5 hp, 60 gallon, 14.7-ish CFM @ 175 psi. Hopefully it'll be enough to paint.
Very nice! I am jealous
. Light years ahead of my little coleman compressor. You should be able to blow the hair off the neighborhood cat with that.
Thread Starter
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 6,449
Likes: 1
From: Waco, TX
Originally Posted by bowtieman81
You should be able to blow the hair off the neighborhood cat with that.
I will...
<- sees kitty footprints on vehicles, but thus far no kitty...
