Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

What technique/position is the best for butt welding pipes? I've lately been stitching or going back and forth across the pipes kinda like Z's.
Phil

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

Depends on what finish of weld you are looking for. I cross stitch and try to keep the arc at about a 45* running with the weld to shield the work from too much heat/blow out(obviously this is where knowing the heat range is king). The easiest way is to keep the arc even more flat like 75* and go with the weld and lay alittle more rod to cover left and right. That is the easier way IMO, the first looks better. It all depends on thickness of tube/pipe and what material. What are you working with, stainless or steel? If you are welding aluminium then throw what I said out the window. Fwiw, I like to flair one end of the pipe and round one pipe in. I mean like barely enough to get a .080" or so overlap, then you can run the bead with no rod and make her look very pretty. Obviously with charged lines you dont want to do that, again depends on material.

Brandon

LS1Sandrail

By far the best looking joint I've ever made is using this product from Holley, which is marketed through Hooker headers.

http://www.holley.com/types/Miscella...Components.asp

They call them "Super Competition Alignment Weld Sleeves"

Placed in the middle of the butt joint, the sleeve seals the joint so you don't have to back purge. The part of the seal that sticks up proud of the butted together tubes is actually the filler material for the joint. No filler rod is required. A really tight fit up makes an excellent looking joint.

If you are going to do your joints without this sleeve (or with it for that matter) make sure you clean all the lube out that they use on the madrel bender.

Also, I find I get a much nicer joint if I pulse the pedal. I put the pedal down and heat up a spot, pull back a little and dip the rod, then index forward for the next puddle. Penetration seems much better and the bead is a lot more consistent.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

Some of the new welders offer the pulsed heat feature. I looked at one of the new miller welders and may upgrade.

Npak

practice alot w/ the pulsating feature. its less heat than normal. but itll run a bit different. you might have to run slower or faster. only pulsating ive worked w/ is alum mig and it sounds alot diff than normal mig. havent played w/ the tig puls though

LuvmyC5

iTrader: (1)

It's been awhile for me (was Nuclear Certified 10 years ago), but on thinner stuff, we would use consumable rings for fitment (the above rings that LS1 SandRail posted are consumable rings, but through Holley) and to gives a little more insurance against blow through and a much cleaner, better fitted weld. I used to run the torch back and forth (side to side) to heat both sides up and then dip the TIG rod in the puddle, if this makes sense. Some guys would walk the cup, but it was harder for me. Whichever is more comfortable for you.

We didn't have all of the pulse stuff that they have today, except for some high freq work for al. Looks like welding technology has made some good steps forward.

What size is the tube/pipe that you're welding, ie; exhaust, intercooler piping, intake stuff, etc, and what type of metal is it?