i really reccomend you take a class on mig, or even flux core mig if they offer it by you. i dunno how much i could explain online like this.

also have a miller inferno auto darkening helmet, i reccomend it to anyone who is going to be welding a lot. i sometimes dont wear it if i stick weld something because of splatter, but it saves so much time for me when tacking stuff. heres a pic of what it looks like, sorry its the only pic i got. id also like to idvise against welding in a t shirt, its not safe i only did it for the pic.

 

I had to as well, the pure tungsten wasn't working out, however I did leave the tip dull for the aluminum.

 

cool/pretty helmet!
The only advise or research I have on how to use my MIG is to use a dragging motion.
I have been successful so far.
Come on, any advise for MIG? Anyone? Bueller?

I'm trying to enroll in a college class, or get a welding job. But hopefully both!
I've found that welding in anything except for certified welding clothes.. it will burn right through and kinda almost hurts.

 

Running a ball an alum is not a wives tale in anyway shape or form. Welding micro tig on alum is the only time you keep your electrode slightly dull. Lincon electric all the way. I still like my old buddy blue though. I have been welding alum for about 9yrs now and I love it. My fovorite is still stainless.
I weld in clothes that cover its to damn hot for welding chaps... as for getting spatter burns, they dont burn bad unless u are welding hot. Be carfull of flash burn to your eyes or skin it will tear you up but we all get it from time to time... allways wear cloths that completely cover your skin.
As for speedglass(auto lens) I cant live without it when tacking. I use a #12 gold lens. The gold lenses are the best... be carfull not to scratch it and if you do throw it away its not worth your eyes for 12$.

 

Welding with a ball on an inverter machine is not necessary, and do NOT use pure tungsten with an inveter machine, like the dynasty and the invertec lines. Arc starting is difficult and works the machine over its limits.

If you are using a 1960s or 70s machine, then yes, you cannot get around the ball.

If Im welding 40 thou sheet, why do I want a ball that is almost 100 thou in diameter?

 

not exactly an old wives tale then is it (old wives tales are usually things that never were true, right?)

with the newer machines where you can adjust the hertz as opposed to using high frequency all the time you can actually use a sharpened tungsten and it welds like mild, but even with a miller synchrowave 350(which is from the last decade or two, not the 60s or 70) you need to use a balled up tungsten...usually the electrode will ball itself up, and it if you're using a small dia. electrode on sheet then you really don't need to do it, but it's hardly an old wives tale

using a pure tungsten on aluminum was for the stability it gave the arc, because continuous high frequency caused a rough arc....so i can see where on a machine that uses a higher hertz setting as opposed to hf you would want to use 2% because it's more robust.....

 

my helmet has adjstable delay, sensitivity, and shades 9-13, i usualy have it set to about 11.2 for my eyes. it would have taken me 10 years to install and tig my roll cage without it.

 

Weld with your ***** all you want then

 

i prefer welding with my stick

i used an ac/dc inverter for the first time up at the tech center a while back, welding aluminum was unreal.......keeps a nice point and gives you unreal puddle control.......we don't have that in our shop yet, so i'll continue to play with *****

 

Is Tig welding the one where a constant stream of wire is propelled from the welder onto the surface you are welding?

 

no tig is gas toungsten arc welding, the one you are talking about is MIG, or gas metal arc welding.

 

A few years ago I purchased a student package from Miller. Only $25 and worth every penny in my opinion. http://www.millerwelds.com/education...dex.html#books