tig welding
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Originally Posted by msb184
MIG welding is not adequate for any high strength area. In a mig weld,the strength of the weld is a function of the filler rod. You will seldom find any mig welders in a chassis shop. In a TIG weld the parts are fully penetrated with a small amt. of filler rod. The only reason to use a mig is if you can't learn to TIG.
I guess Nextel cup guys and Craftsmen truck series cars don't employ good tig welders. Every one is MIG welded. Mig welding is more popular than TIG. Strength can be had for both.
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Originally Posted by jdustu
in EVERY WELD the strength is going to be a function of the filler metal, and in most cases the weld will be stronger than the base metal.....Every other point you made is pretty much completely wrong![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
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Originally Posted by msb184
A do not agree. A lot of TIG welding can be done with very very little if any filler rod. When "high strength " & "suspension parts" are mentioned I assume 4130 CM or something. I don't know anything about NASCAR type racing. I can't find an NHRA rulebook handy but it seems like for PRO classes to be certified welding was to be done by the"TIG PROCESS" . Been a while since i've looked at a r. book. Perhaps someone has one handy? For mild steel or lower strength requirements MIG welding is adequate. MIG has the added plus of being very easy to learn. My 2 cents only,not trying to DIS anybody.
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there are some instances in areas that don't recquire a high strength joint where filler isn't needed......but for a welded joint(say a butt joint, for argument's sake) to pass inspection, one of the criteria is that the welded area be the same thickness(within certain limits) as the thickness of the metal that it is joining together...that will not happen without filler metal.....
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Originally Posted by msb184
A do not agree. A lot of TIG welding can be done with very very little if any filler rod. When "high strength " & "suspension parts" are mentioned I assume 4130 CM or something. I don't know anything about NASCAR type racing. I can't find an NHRA rulebook handy but it seems like for PRO classes to be certified welding was to be done by the"TIG PROCESS" . Been a while since i've looked at a r. book. Perhaps someone has one handy? For mild steel or lower strength requirements MIG welding is adequate. MIG has the added plus of being very easy to learn. My 2 cents only,not trying to DIS anybody.
im not saying one is stronger than the other but if mig is stronger why dont they use it?
something to think about
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most nascar chassis are mild steel migged, i think only 2 teams are using chromoly and tigging them. i think a thing that plays a big role is anyone can pick up a mig gun and weld, but will they be good strong welds, with tigging you kind of have to know how to get anywhere with it.
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Originally Posted by terr1bleone
most nascar chassis are mild steel migged, i think only 2 teams are using chromoly and tigging them. i think a thing that plays a big role is anyone can pick up a mig gun and weld, but will they be good strong welds, with tigging you kind of have to know how to get anywhere with it.
I would think nascar of everything would be running chromoly for its benefits and in large numbers. Whats their reasoning behind that?
-john
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i really cant answer that, youd have to talk to a nascar chasssis builder. i belive i read the teams using TIG are Penske and Yates. i also read that in the chassis deflection tests done prove tig is slightly stronger, but it was at such an extreme that the cars could never meet that on the real track, therefore in track situations they are equal. TIG is preferred over MIG has to do with control of the temperature. With MIG there is no precise temperature control and it starts out hot, whereas TIG is even. Chromoly has a tendency to crack with vast temperature changes.
i found these nascar chasis mig welds, if they help anymore to show how good they look.![](http://img304.imageshack.us/img304/8820/mvc065x2kl4.jpg)
![](http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6600/mvc066x2yj7.jpg)
id also like to say that im assuming most people who mig weld dont even know the 3 different types of mig transfer.
i found these nascar chasis mig welds, if they help anymore to show how good they look.
![](http://img304.imageshack.us/img304/8820/mvc065x2kl4.jpg)
![](http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6600/mvc066x2yj7.jpg)
id also like to say that im assuming most people who mig weld dont even know the 3 different types of mig transfer.
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Holy Crap! What are you guys having a pissing contest on who could be the most wrong??? WTF???
I believe that this might be the only entirely correct statement in the whole thread… at least as far as it applies to a small automotive shop.
Although 100% incorrect, it’s probably the only good reason to do what you’re asking to do with a TIG… because there is that perception by “those who know”
that a TIG bead is stronger, and they know that TIGed parts are more expensive (because it takes 3-5x as long to run the same bead, if we’re talking short beads, much more if it is a long bead), so they are perceived to be stronger. The reason that I say that it’s the only good reason is that the fact is that no amount of convincing or flat out facts will sell parts faster then just TIGing them if any of your competition does. It doesn't make a difference if you're right, wrong, better, worse... the customer's opinion/perception has a bigger impact on if your parts are good then if they really are or not.
Ok, sorry, maybe a second OK post. But why do you say that a TIG welder is more suited for welding together a roll cage? If anything I prefer MIG over TIG there, especially in tight and upside down spots. What about TIG do you like better for the application?
Ok, in general…
¿Que? like someone has already said, filler metal is one place all welds, no matter the process get their strength from, but not the only one, the weld design also matters. Although generally my reaction in these arguments could be taken to agree with what you say here (it’s easier to weld with a MIG, but it’s harder to weld it right), the fact is that if you get ehough heat into the weld to run a proper bead that is sitting correctly… there is no way in hell that you won’t have penetration. The wire feed = welding current which roughly = penetration. If you don’t get penetration you do not get enough heat to melt the base metal sufficiently to get a proper weld and the weld just sits on top, and it’s blindingly obvious when that happens.
that being said, the only reason a good looking mig weld would be bad is if the operator doesn't know what he is doing......if you have the machine set up right, you can definetly be "guaranteed" the penetration you need to make the weld.....and then the strength comes from the filler metal, which in mose cases will be stronger than the base material
The other side of all this is that with a TIG you control what the heat input/current input is with the foot pedal and you can very easily make a superficial weld that is visually indistinguishable from a proper, good weld, at least without cutting the weld open and actually looking at it. It’s a simple process… take a TIG torch, strike an arc and feed some rod and melt it onto the cold surface of the base metal (it will sit there like a little ball of metal like a glob of solder or something), then give it some more pedal and wave the torch to either side of that blob, as you get the surface of the base metal hot enough to melt the blob will “wet out” and form a perfect little “dime” with absolutely zero, zilch, nada penetration.
Why?
Assuming that you’re using normalized 4130 vs say 1018 or 1020 (if you’re using a mild steel actually designed for tubular construction like 1026, then this conversation becomes almost laughable, so we’ll leave the better quality mild steel out of this), and lets say you’re using some ER70S2 or S6 filler (not that it would be a first choice, with either material I’d prefer some ER80S2, it will give a stronger joint and you’ll need less filler to get the same strength)…
It doesn’t matter which steel you’ll use they all have the same Young’s Modulus, in other words, they all have the same stiffness. If you look around the ‘net you’ll find that normalized 4130 has a yield strength of 90Ksi where the mild steel comes in at around 70Ksi… well, go look it up in an engineering text, you’ll find that people are quoting the extreme high end for the 4130, and quoting close to the bottom end for the mild steel (yes, there is a range, they’re all just alloys and the “same stuff” can range from junk to pretty good). More typical of decent, off the shelf DOM is about 72Ksi for 1020 and 74Ksi for the 4130. At this point ignoring the welds you have 2 materials that have the same stiffness and probably about a 2-3% difference in strength. Yea, I guess if you didn’t weld it you could justify going 2-3% thinner with the chrome molly piece then you could with the steel piece, assuming that the part doesn’t have to be as stiff.
BTW, in case you don’t know stiffness is really important in suspension pieces, but I guess that doesn’t really matter, keep comparing .095” 4130 to .118” 1020. At least you used chrome molly and you TIG welded it, so it’s the perfect part… yea right…
Anyway, now lets add a weld to the deal. You just used a ER70Swhatever filler metal… huh, guess what, you know what that ‘70’ in the name is? It’s a 70Ksi strength mild steel filler. So now your ACTUAL weld is no stronger either.
Huh.
There’s a funny thing about chrome molly, it self quenches. That means that when you run a weld bead on it the area around the bead actually gets quenched by the surrounding metal and hardens. Now you have spots between the main length of tube and the weld that are very hard and BRITTLE. Funny thing about brittle things, they shatter.
Now how about an interesting thing related to that about mild steel… it doesn’t harden, so when you weld it you end up with… well exactly what you started with, same strength, same hardness.
“But, but, but, I TIG welded it!” yea, so? TIG welding is a slower process, you apply less heat for alonger period of time, which makes for a larger heat effected zone (at least if you get the same penetration) then MIG, so guess what, you actually made that brittle area next to the weld BIGGER.
I’ll stop and post here while I ponder my comments about the rest of this thread
Originally Posted by young
Just curious, why would you use chromeoly for these type of parts? Regular D.O.M tubing is more than these cars need for suspension parts. With this type of material you could mig weld it. This way if you had to buy a welder,then you would have one that you can use for numerous types of projects. All I am getting at is that the chromeoly tubing is WAY overkill and if you have to buy a welder I believe that a mig welder will pay for itself in more uses than a tig will.
Originally Posted by jjkamikaze
MIG doesn't guarantee the full penetration and strength of TIG. i will never put MIG welded suspension comonents on any car i have to drive.
![Icon Rolleyes](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_rolleyes.gif)
Originally Posted by young
I have been building tube chassis rock crawlers with four link suspensions for years. A good welder that knows what he is doing will NOT have any problems with making suspension parts be strong and last for ever. Metal prep and a good size welder are the key. I just feel that there is no reason for some one to buy a TIG welder for suspension parts when a mig can do it just fine. A tig welder is more suited for welding together a roll cage. I have both a ESAB tig and a Hobart mig at the shop and would never even think about tig welding link bars for a rearend. Just my opinion! ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
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Originally Posted by jdustu
it's not the process, it's the operator........
a good looking mig weld can be bad, but if i tig weld looks good it is good(assuming the right filler was used)
that being said, the only reason a good looking mig weld would be bad is if the operator doesn't know what he is doing......if you have the machine set up right, you can definetly be "guaranteed" the penetration you need to make the weld.....and then the strength comes from the filler metal, which in mose cases will be stronger than the base material
The other side of all this is that with a TIG you control what the heat input/current input is with the foot pedal and you can very easily make a superficial weld that is visually indistinguishable from a proper, good weld, at least without cutting the weld open and actually looking at it. It’s a simple process… take a TIG torch, strike an arc and feed some rod and melt it onto the cold surface of the base metal (it will sit there like a little ball of metal like a glob of solder or something), then give it some more pedal and wave the torch to either side of that blob, as you get the surface of the base metal hot enough to melt the blob will “wet out” and form a perfect little “dime” with absolutely zero, zilch, nada penetration.
Originally Posted by mg98ta
Also using chromemoly, you can use thinner wall material and still be as strong or stronger than mild steel, and thus the part will be lighter weight.
Assuming that you’re using normalized 4130 vs say 1018 or 1020 (if you’re using a mild steel actually designed for tubular construction like 1026, then this conversation becomes almost laughable, so we’ll leave the better quality mild steel out of this), and lets say you’re using some ER70S2 or S6 filler (not that it would be a first choice, with either material I’d prefer some ER80S2, it will give a stronger joint and you’ll need less filler to get the same strength)…
It doesn’t matter which steel you’ll use they all have the same Young’s Modulus, in other words, they all have the same stiffness. If you look around the ‘net you’ll find that normalized 4130 has a yield strength of 90Ksi where the mild steel comes in at around 70Ksi… well, go look it up in an engineering text, you’ll find that people are quoting the extreme high end for the 4130, and quoting close to the bottom end for the mild steel (yes, there is a range, they’re all just alloys and the “same stuff” can range from junk to pretty good). More typical of decent, off the shelf DOM is about 72Ksi for 1020 and 74Ksi for the 4130. At this point ignoring the welds you have 2 materials that have the same stiffness and probably about a 2-3% difference in strength. Yea, I guess if you didn’t weld it you could justify going 2-3% thinner with the chrome molly piece then you could with the steel piece, assuming that the part doesn’t have to be as stiff.
BTW, in case you don’t know stiffness is really important in suspension pieces, but I guess that doesn’t really matter, keep comparing .095” 4130 to .118” 1020. At least you used chrome molly and you TIG welded it, so it’s the perfect part… yea right…
Anyway, now lets add a weld to the deal. You just used a ER70Swhatever filler metal… huh, guess what, you know what that ‘70’ in the name is? It’s a 70Ksi strength mild steel filler. So now your ACTUAL weld is no stronger either.
Huh.
There’s a funny thing about chrome molly, it self quenches. That means that when you run a weld bead on it the area around the bead actually gets quenched by the surrounding metal and hardens. Now you have spots between the main length of tube and the weld that are very hard and BRITTLE. Funny thing about brittle things, they shatter.
Now how about an interesting thing related to that about mild steel… it doesn’t harden, so when you weld it you end up with… well exactly what you started with, same strength, same hardness.
“But, but, but, I TIG welded it!” yea, so? TIG welding is a slower process, you apply less heat for alonger period of time, which makes for a larger heat effected zone (at least if you get the same penetration) then MIG, so guess what, you actually made that brittle area next to the weld BIGGER.
I’ll stop and post here while I ponder my comments about the rest of this thread
Last edited by Silverback; 09-10-2006 at 03:57 AM.
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Originally Posted by jdustu
what is your definition of good? if the right filler metal is used, a tig weld that passes visual inspection is not going to be weak, period......this isn't my opinion, this is coming from guys that have been certifying welds for a few decades.....on the other hand, there are many variables with mig welding that would allow you to lay a bead that would easily pass visual inspection and yet have zero penatration
Originally Posted by msb184
MIG welding is not adequate for any high strength area. In a mig weld,the strength of the weld is a function of the filler rod. You will seldom find any mig welders in a chassis shop. In a TIG weld the parts are fully penetrated with a small amt. of filler rod. The only reason to use a mig is if you can't learn to TIG.
Originally Posted by duece_bigalo01
I'm a aircraft welder in the navy and can say that I like the welds out of a tig welder because it doesnt mess with the temper of the metal like a mig welder does. 2 piece's of metal the same thickness one being tig welded and the other being mig welded the tig welded has less heat stress and the temper has been messed with like the mig weld does.
Originally Posted by Louis
I guess Nextel cup guys and Craftsmen truck series cars don't employ good tig welders. Every one is MIG welded. Mig welding is more popular than TIG. Strength can be had for both.
Originally Posted by JPMuscle
I would think nascar of everything would be running chromoly for its benefits and in large numbers. Whats their reasoning behind that?
Do you remember what I said about welding 4130 and making brittle spots? Well do you know what happens when something is brittle and gets hit? It shatters, and usually shatters with sharp points. When you hit a wall at 180mph the last thing you need is for your chassis to shatter around you and come at you with sharp spears.
There are actually a bunch of very well known metal fabricators and engineers that will not allow 4130 to be used anywhere around a driver. Formier (Metal Fabricator’s Handbook) and Carrol Smith (the “_____ To Win” series of books discussing all aspects of engineering and preparation of race cars) have longer discussions about this in their books.
Originally Posted by msb184
A do not agree. A lot of TIG welding can be done with very very little if any filler rod.
When "high strength " & "suspension parts" are mentioned I assume 4130 CM or something.
I don't know anything about NASCAR type racing. I can't find an NHRA rulebook handy but it seems like for PRO classes to be certified welding was to be done by the"TIG PROCESS" .
Originally Posted by ty_ty13
he is right about pro classes having to be done in the TIG process... they are looking for the most safe way to protect these drivers in drag racing... if mig was stronger why wouldnt they use it?
im not saying one is stronger than the other but if mig is stronger why dont they use it?
something to think about![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
im not saying one is stronger than the other but if mig is stronger why dont they use it?
something to think about
![Icon Confused](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies2/icon_confused.gif)
Last edited by Silverback; 09-10-2006 at 04:04 AM.
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Holy Crap! What are you guys having a pissing contest on who could be the most wrong??? WTF???
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Originally Posted by Silverback
BULLSHIT! “Guys that have been certifying welds” wouldn’t dare give a real answer on if something is a good weld or bad weld if they are not allowed to destructively test it, at least cut through the middle of it and acid etch it or x-ray it. No one in their right mind would just look at a TIG weld and say “yep, that’s a strong one” because like I already described, the process lends itself to making pretty beads no matter what the conditions underneath are.
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i never said they didn't physically test the welds, did i? what i said was that they never had a tig welded piece fail after it passed visual......meaning that it ALWAYS passed the destructive testing after it passed the visual.....
and that last statement is ignorant; more than any other process the "condition underneath" is CRITICAL to making "pretty beads" while tig welding
try reading a little deeper next time
that being said, the only reason a good looking mig weld would be bad is if the operator doesn't know what he is doing......if you have the machine set up right, you can definetly be "guaranteed" the penetration you need to make the weld.....and then the strength comes from the filler metal, which in mose cases will be stronger than the base material
take a TIG torch, strike an arc and feed some rod and melt it onto the cold surface of the base metal (it will sit there like a little ball of metal like a glob of solder or something), then give it some more pedal and wave the torch to either side of that blob, as you get the surface of the base metal hot enough to melt the blob will “wet out” and form a perfect little “dime” with absolutely zero, zilch, nada penetration.
Last edited by jdustu; 09-10-2006 at 10:44 AM.
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Originally Posted by jdustu
you don't have to agree, that just means your wrong
there are some instances in areas that don't recquire a high strength joint where filler isn't needed......but for a welded joint(say a butt joint, for argument's sake) to pass inspection, one of the criteria is that the welded area be the same thickness(within certain limits) as the thickness of the metal that it is joining together...that will not happen without filler metal.....
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
there are some instances in areas that don't recquire a high strength joint where filler isn't needed......but for a welded joint(say a butt joint, for argument's sake) to pass inspection, one of the criteria is that the welded area be the same thickness(within certain limits) as the thickness of the metal that it is joining together...that will not happen without filler metal.....
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Originally Posted by Louis
I guess Nextel cup guys and Craftsmen truck series cars don't employ good tig welders. Every one is MIG welded. Mig welding is more popular than TIG. Strength can be had for both.
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Originally Posted by msb184
Man o Man!! This was my lucky day!! To have reached know it all status in only 28 yrs!! I bet your co-workers love the advice I'm sure you provide. I sure wish you had been there to guide me 43 years ago when I learned to weld.
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
i love folks who are willing to be educated, and saying a thing like "the only reason to use a mig is if you can't learn to tig" shows you have a lot to learn.
i'm sure you're twice the welder i'll ever be, but there is so much misinformation out there about what you can and can't do with certain processes and what they are good for, that when you say something presumptious and wrong like "mig welding is never good for high strength", then i'm gonna call you out...
Last edited by jdustu; 09-21-2006 at 04:13 PM.
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OK - The" never" comment is a little over the top. I did think we were responding about CM ,where I would not attempt a MIG weld. Part 0f the MIG concern is that some people slap some metal together ,slop on a mig weld & call that a strong weld. Part of the TIG process is that you must prepare the metal or it won't work at all. I doubt I am a better welder than you (or anyone) else. Most of us have a "pet process" .Heck,I still gas weld alum. sometimes just for fun. No DIS to all those that prefer MIG welders. Scott
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Originally Posted by msb184
OK - The" never" comment is a little over the top. I did think we were responding about CM ,where I would not attempt a MIG weld. Part 0f the MIG concern is that some people slap some metal together ,slop on a mig weld & call that a strong weld. Part of the TIG process is that you must prepare the metal or it won't work at all. I doubt I am a better welder than you (or anyone) else. Most of us have a "pet process" .Heck,I still gas weld alum. sometimes just for fun. No DIS to all those that prefer MIG welders. Scott
right on dude.....
there are a lot of guys that come on here trying to learn about the processes, and too many times are given generalized answers that don't always hold true.....personally, i tig weld a lot of things i should pry mig
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i think some folks have had success welding cm "trigger" mig welding....there was a welding web site forum that had a guy send his welds out to get tested using this method and they turned out plenty strong...
on a side note, i've been wanting to try gas welding aluminum......they only let us use mapp gas in the plant which is next to impossible to use on mild steel, but maybe it would work with aluminum? i don't know, but i should get an oxy/acetyline set up for home anyways....
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If you weld chrome moly you have to heat treat it. Theres a procedure for it and im not going to go into it as its somthing you should learn before any body gets hurt. As far as mig chassis guys use it more for speed and repair. Tigging is better because its a 100% weld and it brings the heat on slow and cools down slower for normalization. The bummer about tigging is the time and patience it takes to weld a chassis or any thing. All joints have to be perfect for fittment and weld were mig it has to be close. The other bummer about tig is you have to jig everything and allow cool downs or you pull all over. Metal prep is were most welds win and lose and always ad filler rod and never cold weld a joint.
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Originally Posted by jdustu
right on dude.....
there are a lot of guys that come on here trying to learn about the processes, and too many times are given generalized answers that don't always hold true.....personally, i tig weld a lot of things i should pry mig
i think some folks have had success welding cm "trigger" mig welding....there was a welding web site forum that had a guy send his welds out to get tested using this method and they turned out plenty strong...
on a side note, i've been wanting to try gas welding aluminum......they only let us use mapp gas in the plant which is next to impossible to use on mild steel, but maybe it would work with aluminum? i don't know, but i should get an oxy/acetyline set up for home anyways....
there are a lot of guys that come on here trying to learn about the processes, and too many times are given generalized answers that don't always hold true.....personally, i tig weld a lot of things i should pry mig
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
i think some folks have had success welding cm "trigger" mig welding....there was a welding web site forum that had a guy send his welds out to get tested using this method and they turned out plenty strong...
on a side note, i've been wanting to try gas welding aluminum......they only let us use mapp gas in the plant which is next to impossible to use on mild steel, but maybe it would work with aluminum? i don't know, but i should get an oxy/acetyline set up for home anyways....
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
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Originally Posted by motormonkey
If you weld chrome moly you have to heat treat it. Theres a procedure for it and im not going to go into it as its somthing you should learn before any body gets hurt. As far as mig chassis guys use it more for speed and repair. Tigging is better because its a 100% weld and it brings the heat on slow and cools down slower for normalization. The bummer about tigging is the time and patience it takes to weld a chassis or any thing. All joints have to be perfect for fittment and weld were mig it has to be close. The other bummer about tig is you have to jig everything and allow cool downs or you pull all over. Metal prep is were most welds win and lose and always ad filler rod and never cold weld a joint.