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tig welder issue

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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 09:35 AM
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Default tig welder issue

i got a miller tig not sure on the model think its a 180sd.. its foot operated but the problem is even on the lowest settings on the maching and only light pedal pressure the machine seems to go to full power every once in a while .. anyone know what might be causing it? i has acted up like this before but it stopped and was good for a few months now its acting up again.
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 00454sscamaro
i got a miller tig not sure on the model think its a 180sd.. its foot operated but the problem is even on the lowest settings on the maching and only light pedal pressure the machine seems to go to full power every once in a while .. anyone know what might be causing it? i has acted up like this before but it stopped and was good for a few months now its acting up again.
You are having a problem that is unique to the brand, I have heard of thta before, but done know the cause. Call the miller tech line, they are usually very helpful.
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Old Dec 20, 2006 | 06:14 PM
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How old is the machine? Our old Dialarc HF would do that every month or so- I had to clean the foot pedal from all of the junk it collected in the fab shop.

Try a thumb switch, that might solve it, or at least isolate it to the power metering device.
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Old Dec 21, 2006 | 07:55 PM
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welders about 6 or 7 years old i think. i'll try messing with the pedal, or getting a different setup- i was thinking about a water cooled torch anyway good time to try another setup.

ill try the techline first and see what the think though.

Last edited by 00454sscamaro; Dec 21, 2006 at 08:09 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 05:01 AM
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If you can, try swapping out the pedal. They get pretty beat up, being kicked around, and exposed to lots of dust, and stuff. You might try a thumb switch, but they're hard to get used to.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 04:26 PM
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You might take a look at the foot pedal as mentioned, look at the reostat, thats what gets meessed up, clean it, then put dialetric grease on it and the unit will last a lot longer, otherwise, the thumb switch all the way, they are a life saver when you do full roll cages and your getting in and around the car in rediculous positions. I think there the best.
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Old Jan 8, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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thanks for the tips finally fixed it the other day. welded up my x pipe rather good(would of been alot better if i did some prep to the welds/sanded gavanizing off, and someone to hold the x pipe still) it was the pedal, it was just dirty. used electronic cleaner spray.
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 11:26 PM
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well its doing it again already so idk if its the pedal.. it worked great for a few days... i think im going to invest in a thumbswitch this is rediculous.. the **** is what regulates the power on thumbswitch right?
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Old Jan 17, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 00454sscamaro
well its doing it again already so idk if its the pedal.. it worked great for a few days... i think im going to invest in a thumbswitch this is rediculous.. the **** is what regulates the power on thumbswitch right?
Are you using a High FQ start setup ?? If so try this ( i have a tempermental old Hobart) Set the AMP's the max for your material IE 0.065 at 60amps etc. It will help with the oversurge and you will be able to just WOT the thing on with minimal worry. I always leave 5-10 amps extra in the dial but i tend to just run the AMP setting at my max penetration depth and use the pedal as an on/off switch and to dial back the heat on stainless when it start looking droopy.
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Old Jan 18, 2007 | 02:14 AM
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EDIT: just read my post kinda of hard to understand .. so i'll redo
machines on, lowests amp setting, gas on, machine on, fresh tungston.. i tap the pedal alil and a tiny arch starts. i move the pedal the tiniest bit further and its like i set it on 180 and had my foot all the way down.

Last edited by 00454sscamaro; Jan 18, 2007 at 02:24 AM.
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 01:02 PM
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Also to improve your weld you might want to grind back the aluminized on the pipe
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 05:16 PM
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make sure if you get a thumb control you get one that you can go from off to full throttle in one motion, mine has like 3 turns between off and full power, its aggravating as hell when your trying to start a puddle and you have to crank on it like 3 times. ive got a freind with one with a little thumb lever and it works a lot better
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 06:51 PM
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i dunno about THAT machine your using, but make sure it is set to "remote" on the output dial and "remote" on volatage/amperage...


i.e.: make sure the maching knows you want to control the heat with your pedal, not just use the pedal as an on/off switch. know what i mean?
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 07:43 PM
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have u cleaned the inside of the welder out??? sometimes they collect a ton of dust on the inside and cleaning them out usually helps... happend to my miller dynasty 350 did that.. i cleaned it out and it went away
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by rice4eatingnotdrivin
have u cleaned the inside of the welder out??? sometimes they collect a ton of dust on the inside and cleaning them out usually helps... happend to my miller dynasty 350 did that.. i cleaned it out and it went away
I agree, you may need to clean and/or gap the contacts. Look at your owners manual or find it on the Miller site.

Ryph
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DRVETTE
You might take a look at the foot pedal as mentioned, look at the reostat, thats what gets meessed up, clean it, then put dialetric grease on it and the unit will last a lot longer, otherwise, the thumb switch all the way, they are a life saver when you do full roll cages and your getting in and around the car in rediculous positions. I think there the best.

we had to replace our reostat in our miller pedal at work.
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000_SS
i dunno about THAT machine your using, but make sure it is set to "remote" on the output dial and "remote" on volatage/amperage...


i.e.: make sure the maching knows you want to control the heat with your pedal, not just use the pedal as an on/off switch. know what i mean?
This is the first thing that I thought of when I read the OP's problem with the machine. I have had this happen to me a few times. If the switches are set to "panel" then whatever your amperage is set to, that will be your amperage for the entire weld. But if it the switch is set to "remote" then you can set your machine to a higher amperage and only weld that hot if you press the pedal all the way down. That way you have a variation in your heat and control of the puddle.
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