z28berryhill

iTrader: (26)

dynasty is what i use too expensive but **** they weld good lol

people all have there little tricks ...just practice makes perfect

Drew04GTO

iTrader: (1)

I don't have any problem welding with the econotig. Uphill, vertical faces, upside down. I've got aluminum down with it, I just only do it once every few months. Until my boss springs for something better than what we have I'm sticking with it.

CutlassRacer

When I am TIGing two thin aluminum pieces together, I try to build up a little metal on each side of the joint before I attempt to stick the two pieces together. It may not be the right way to do it, but it has worked well for me so far. The only way that it is noticeable is a couple of slightly larger beads from where I tacked the pieces together. Once I get them tacked, it is off to the races. Getting the pieces stuck together is the hardest part for me.

2000_SS

iTrader: (24)

i ues to weld alluminum all the time, but haven't for a while. i used to make alluminum truck boxes and stainless accessories that went on trucks you would see on a certain CMT TV show...

...anywho, start your arc and get the edge(s) wet then "smear" your rod from one puddle to the other until there is fusion between the two parts....then just start moving forward at your own pace and add rod to the beat of a song on the radio....after LOTS of practice, this should produce show quality welds. just remember, you can't do JACK until that puddle is ready to go....some people are "keyhole" welders, meaning as you move your puddle along, add rod when a "keyhole" seems to form at the leading edge, then repeat...

everyone has different ideas of what a good weld should look like or how it should be produced...i'm sure this thread will be of SOME help, but practice is the only way to get it.

stevieturbo

For cleaning....

Has anyone used a twisted knot style wire brush fitment for an angle grinder ? Or would that be a little too harsh ?

Or is acetone the best cleaning agent ? Do you guys wipe down with acetone, or dip it in it ?

chopper

iTrader: (18)

You have rec. some good advice from some experienced welders here, just thought I would toss a couple of suggestions in.

I use a #4 or #5 cup @ 12 to 14cfh and 2 to 3 seconds post flow, 3/32tungsten Your choice of alloy, mildly sharpened. I never chamfer .065 material, nice square edges will ease the starting puddle and penetration is easily acheived on .065. Then follow the common rules ie...clean, clean & practice, practice.

Bottom line is once You have some experience You will develop a system that is best for You and You will wonder how others do it any other way, lol.

Good Luck,
Carl

Drew04GTO

iTrader: (1)

As long as you don't use it on anything but for cleaning aluminum and you don't remove too much of the material you're trying to weld then I don't see a problem with it. I usually wipe down with pure methanol, no dipping or spraying. Keep wiping until you rag is clean. Even then, you might hit a pocket of trash under the surface of the aluminum that'll require you chiseling it out.

MikeGyver

iTrader: (5)

That wheel would turn aluminum into dust. Besides, you should only use a dedicated stainless brush.

stevieturbo

Why would it turn it to dust ? Its just a powered stainless wire brush....albeit quite a fast one.

I do intend to use it solely for cleaning aluminium.

This type of thing, with stainless wire of course.

MikeGyver

iTrader: (5)

The twisted ones are way too aggressive. The plain ones are too aggressive if you want to preserve the finish of the metal next to the weld, e.g. polished or brushed. Wire wheels don't leave a brushed finish on aluminum, like say on a stainless steel sink. On aluminum, they will leave a finish that looks like a cross between brushed and heavy shot blasting. Unless you use a very fine brush.
I pretty much don't clean aluminum that hasn't been oiled or corroded.

stevieturbo

Ahh well....Im sure they will come in handy for something.

At the minute the finish on the Alu isnt important. My welds arent much to look at anyway !!! lol

I just need something quick and easy that will clean it. I have just been using a stainless wire brush so far.
I must get some acetone though.

MikeGyver

iTrader: (5)

What are you welding, what are you welding with, and what kind of problems are you having?

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

Die grinder with 3m roloc pads is my MVP for aluminum.



I've never used acetone. I'm not saying that you shouldn't, or that it doesn't work, but I've only ever mechanically cleaned the surface and it works for me. Of course I had never used a gas lense until this week either, and now I'm hooked I'll have to try the acetone sometime.

stevieturbo

Can we elaborate on a gas lense ?

So would this assist in making welding easier for a dummy ?

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

I've been welding for about 5 years and I just used it for the first time this week, so it's not really a necessity. They take the place of the collet body, and a different style cup screws onto it:


It really evens out the gas flow. The puddle will be a lot calmer, and you can stick out the electrode further if need be.

I haven't used it on aluminum yet, but on stainless and mild steel it's dope. You'll really be able to tell the difference if you've been welding without one for a while.

Louis

iTrader: (7)

Gas lense helps with gas flow, and you can run a lower CFH, and still get the same coverage. I use one all the time unless Im working in cramped spaces.

As for tungsten- Becareful. Green ( Pure) is fine for older machines, and balling it up. DO NOT use green on a dynasty or aerowave or any inverter type. It will hurt the boards inside the machine. Its a 1200$ fix on a dynasty 200dx. use a 1.5 or 2% lanthanated, or 2% thoriated for alum (yes, red)

If you use pure on an inverter machine, it will strike an arc fine the first few times, then it gets progressively harder to start the arc. this causes a lot of undue stress on the machine to start the arc. I use 1.5% lanthanated on everything (orange or gold, I forget) Steel and aluminum

Drew04GTO

iTrader: (1)

Hey louis, I've messed around with some Lanthanated tungstens 2 years ago welding with a synchrowave 250dx just out of curiosity. But since I've slept since then I can't remember exactly what it does. Doesn't it help the arc at lower amperages? I know thoriated is supposed to be good for that, but what is lanthanated really for? Has anyone on here used ceriated in place of thoriated?

xfactor_pitbulls

iTrader: (16)

A gas lense gives such better weld protection. You will notice it most when welding high alloys, like complex stainless, titanium, etc. For that thickness I would be running 1/16" color or your choice with a 1/16" filler. I do not wipe with any cleaner unless there are signs of grease or grime. A medium grit sandpaper is just fine. Been around a few seminars that show because of the porosity of aluminum you never really get all the wiping agent out. Your best friend in the world for welding aluminum is a good old benzomatic plumbers torch. Preheat it pretty good and you dont need nearly the amps to start a puddle. You guys think you are running old machines? Restored 1970 Lincolnc Ideal Arc 350 here, and sold a syncrowave 350 after I got it, such a cherry machine.

jdustu

iTrader: (2)

I use ceriated on pretty much everything now, with my dynasty and with the synchrowave 350. I've still got a bunch of 2% and don't mind that either, but I've given most of the pure stuff to co-workers. My days at Chrysler are numbered and I obviously have no need for them on my dynasty.

I've never used lanthiated. One of the instructers at the tech center hated it, but said that he knew a guy that swore by it. But that dude was a hypochondriac, and I guess the lanthiated was made because it has no radioactive material in it. I've never had access to it, so I've never tried it.

There haven't been a lot of situations I've been in that made me think "wow, this electrode is so much better than that electrode!"

99345hp

I used to weld for an aircraft company. We welded a lot of aluminum in thicknesses from
.020 to .063. We always used the red tungsten. I would go with a larger cup than a number 5 if i was you. That is an awfully small area that it will cover. I usually like to stick with a #8 if the space is available. There is a company that sells a cleaner for aluminum prior to welding and it works amazing. PM me and ill let you know who it is. I will recommend on thing. If you are butt welding you need to have 100% penetration. And on Aluminum or Stainless steel you need to purge the inside of the pipe with argon. This will keep from pulling oxyen into the weld puddle. What you should see is like another weld bead on the inside of the pipe. I hope anything i said helps.