Compressor info?
Compressor info? I got an old air compressor i'm trying to get working. I got it cheap, but the flywheel on the pump is broken (the guy I got it off dropped the compressor on the flywheel).
The compressor is a 'Curtis manufacturing Co' of St Louis, 60 gal upright twin cylinder. I've tried researching it online, but it looks like this is a really old compressor, and I can't find any info on it.
Anyone know where I could get a flywheel?. Or is it possible to get cast aluminum welded strong enough to withstand the startup pressure? (all the spokes have snapped off the wheel).
Also, the electric motor has the option of 110v or 220v wiring, which would be better?, it will be sited under a carport.
I will get a pic up tonight when I get back to the desktop instead of the laptop i'm on now.
Sara Lou
The compressor is a 'Curtis manufacturing Co' of St Louis, 60 gal upright twin cylinder. I've tried researching it online, but it looks like this is a really old compressor, and I can't find any info on it.
Anyone know where I could get a flywheel?. Or is it possible to get cast aluminum welded strong enough to withstand the startup pressure? (all the spokes have snapped off the wheel).
Also, the electric motor has the option of 110v or 220v wiring, which would be better?, it will be sited under a carport.
I will get a pic up tonight when I get back to the desktop instead of the laptop i'm on now.
Sara Lou
I just Googled for air compressor flywheel, and it turned up a few hits. So I'm sure they're out there. 
Just need to know your shaft diameter, belt style, and old flywheel diameter to get one that would work. For example:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cat...ories/flywheel
"A" groove would be a 1/2" belt, "B" groove would be a 21/32" belt, but I'm not sure about poly-V (flat belt with grooves? 2 belts? I don't know). Probably turn up more on ebay for less money. Or you might be able to call http://www.eatoncompressor.com and see if they have anything that would match.
As for 110 vs. 220, it depends on (a) the size of circuit breakers you have available, and (b) the size of wiring you can use. Since it's 110 V, I'll assume it's a 1.5 horsepower motor. A 1.5 horse motor pulls about 15 amps at 110V, but only about 8 amps at 220 volts. Going up from there, a 2 horse motor pulls about 20 amps at 110V, but only about 10 at 220. So you can use smaller wiring at the higher voltages. To do 20 amps requires, say, 12 gauge wire. But for 10 amps, you could use 14 gauge. Higher voltage is better, IMO, because the current required is lower. But sometimes, it's just easier to go with 110V.
Just need to know your shaft diameter, belt style, and old flywheel diameter to get one that would work. For example:http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/cat...ories/flywheel
"A" groove would be a 1/2" belt, "B" groove would be a 21/32" belt, but I'm not sure about poly-V (flat belt with grooves? 2 belts? I don't know). Probably turn up more on ebay for less money. Or you might be able to call http://www.eatoncompressor.com and see if they have anything that would match.
As for 110 vs. 220, it depends on (a) the size of circuit breakers you have available, and (b) the size of wiring you can use. Since it's 110 V, I'll assume it's a 1.5 horsepower motor. A 1.5 horse motor pulls about 15 amps at 110V, but only about 8 amps at 220 volts. Going up from there, a 2 horse motor pulls about 20 amps at 110V, but only about 10 at 220. So you can use smaller wiring at the higher voltages. To do 20 amps requires, say, 12 gauge wire. But for 10 amps, you could use 14 gauge. Higher voltage is better, IMO, because the current required is lower. But sometimes, it's just easier to go with 110V.
Thanks for the info Camaroholic.
The reason i was looking for the flywheel specific to this compressor is because it has an "unloader" system on the flywheel. Which I found, after research, is some kind of device that releases compression at startup to relieve pressure until the pump/motor is operating properly.
I'm wondering if this system can be removed and just run any kind of flywheel?, would this work?.
The electric motor is a 2hp, by the way.
Last night I e-mailed Curtis-Toledo, St louis. and asked if they were in fact the same company, and whether they could help with parts supply. Awaiting response.
Sara Lou
The reason i was looking for the flywheel specific to this compressor is because it has an "unloader" system on the flywheel. Which I found, after research, is some kind of device that releases compression at startup to relieve pressure until the pump/motor is operating properly.
I'm wondering if this system can be removed and just run any kind of flywheel?, would this work?.
The electric motor is a 2hp, by the way.
Last night I e-mailed Curtis-Toledo, St louis. and asked if they were in fact the same company, and whether they could help with parts supply. Awaiting response.
Sara Lou
Start up amps on that motor could be as much as 6X the running amps. Trying to start the motor without the unloader would be a no no.
As for a "light wheel".. Also a no no..The wt of the wheel helps keep things spinning.
1. That tank is likely full of rust, and will/can ruin your tools, fill the filters full of crud, and generally make a mess.
2. Any compressor worth that effort would have to have at least a 5HP motor on it...
3. Most unloaders are incorporated into the tank inlet pipe, and are plumbed to the psi cutoff sw.
4. As old as it is, there's a good possibility the rings, cyl walls, brgs are toast. The rings/walls being trashed, will pump oil into your air lines, and raise major hell w/ things.
IMO, at the price of scrap, I'd sell it, and get a new unit.
As for a "light wheel".. Also a no no..The wt of the wheel helps keep things spinning.
1. That tank is likely full of rust, and will/can ruin your tools, fill the filters full of crud, and generally make a mess.
2. Any compressor worth that effort would have to have at least a 5HP motor on it...
3. Most unloaders are incorporated into the tank inlet pipe, and are plumbed to the psi cutoff sw.
4. As old as it is, there's a good possibility the rings, cyl walls, brgs are toast. The rings/walls being trashed, will pump oil into your air lines, and raise major hell w/ things.
IMO, at the price of scrap, I'd sell it, and get a new unit.
