Built 98 SS street/strip car Fab 9, TH400, Nitrous, Cam
11-08-2009, 03:19 PM
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Built 98 SS street/strip car Fab 9, TH400, Nitrous, Cam 1998 Camaro SS street/strip car. I have owned this car for the last 4 years and just don’t have a ton of time for it anymore. There were no corners cut on this car, and it is setup to do quite a bit more than it currently is, I just simply don’t have the time to tune it in and make it run what it is capable of due to work and moving away with no garage to work on it. I had the suspension/drivetrain all done and was planning on doing a turbo motor/setup on it this next year as everything was now built to hold the power.
Here are a list of modifications…
Engine: Tuned and Dynoed 385rwhp @ Speedinc through a 9 inch
Stock 2000 ls1 shortblock ~75k miles w/ 853 heads
MS4 Cam
PRC Gold Valvesprings
Hardened 7.4 pushrods¬
LS6 intake
ARP Rodbolts
Double roller timing chain
Melling Oil pump
MSD Plugwires
NGK TR6 Plugs
Exhaust:
Pacesetter 1 ¾ headers
Offroad Y pipe
SLP TOTL muffler
SLP lid
SLP 85mm MAF
Silicone intake couplers
Transmission:
TH400 RMVB (built by Maxwell Transmission about 15 track passes ago, 400 street miles)
TSI convertor (stalls to 3500 on motor, 4000 on nitrous)
Energy Suspension trans mount
TCI transbrake
Electronic VSS installed (speedo is correct)
B&M Stealth Pro Ratchet
Delray Transmission cooler with electric fan
*Car was originally a 6 speed... Pedals and hydraulics still in the car.
Suspension:
QA1 R series front struts
UMI subframe connectors
Midwest chassis fabricated 9 inch (powder coated black)
-Narrowed 3 inches per side
Strange 35 spline axles w/ ½ studs (long)
Strange nodular case
Strange 35 spline spool
Richmond 3.89 gear (setup perfectly with no gear whine)
1350 front yoke
Custom built steel driveshaft with 1350 ujoints all around
Midwest Chassis anti roll bar
Midwest Chassis transmission crossmember mounted chromoly torque arm
BMR LCAs
Spohn adjustable Panhard bar
Comp Engineering Rear adjustable shocks
Poly motor mounts
Fuel system:
Dual in tank Walbro 255lph pumps
Nitrous system:
NX big solenoid EFI nozzle kit
Electrical:
Lingenfelter 2 step
Raptor shift light
Brakes:
LS1 front brakes
LT1 rear brakes (completely new 400 miles ago) with braided lines
Paint:
Factory paint
Black manta ray on hood
6 out of 10 with some blemishes here and there (Car is 11 years old)
Paint is peeling a bit on the front bumper and driver fender
Wheels/tires:
15x3.5 Greg Weld fronts w/ Kumho tires
15x10 4.5” bs Greg Weld rears w/ 275/60/15 MT ET Radials (only a few passes left on them)
Miscellaneous:
Rear mounted battery w/ custom kill switch
SLP linelock
Wilwood proportioning valve
RevExtreme PCV system
Quick video of it idling
Car has run 11.9 @114 on motor on the current setup. The car really needs a little bit higher stall convertor which I was going to do this winter if it doesn’t sell. I believe it is capable of 11.4 or so on motor. Should easily go 10.5 or lower on the gun but I have not made a nitrous pass with it yet.
Car cut 1.6 60’ with the wrong convertor… Dead hooks and I believe with the right convertor 1.5 60’ times should not be an issue.
Looking to get $14,500 for the car… I have a TON more in the car, and you could not build it for that. I am just looking to get more of a driver car now that I don’t have access to a garage to work on it and go racing…
Here are a list of modifications…
Engine: Tuned and Dynoed 385rwhp @ Speedinc through a 9 inch
Stock 2000 ls1 shortblock ~75k miles w/ 853 heads
MS4 Cam
PRC Gold Valvesprings
Hardened 7.4 pushrods¬
LS6 intake
ARP Rodbolts
Double roller timing chain
Melling Oil pump
MSD Plugwires
NGK TR6 Plugs
Exhaust:
Pacesetter 1 ¾ headers
Offroad Y pipe
SLP TOTL muffler
SLP lid
SLP 85mm MAF
Silicone intake couplers
Transmission:
TH400 RMVB (built by Maxwell Transmission about 15 track passes ago, 400 street miles)
TSI convertor (stalls to 3500 on motor, 4000 on nitrous)
Energy Suspension trans mount
TCI transbrake
Electronic VSS installed (speedo is correct)
B&M Stealth Pro Ratchet
Delray Transmission cooler with electric fan
*Car was originally a 6 speed... Pedals and hydraulics still in the car.
Suspension:
QA1 R series front struts
UMI subframe connectors
Midwest chassis fabricated 9 inch (powder coated black)
-Narrowed 3 inches per side
Strange 35 spline axles w/ ½ studs (long)
Strange nodular case
Strange 35 spline spool
Richmond 3.89 gear (setup perfectly with no gear whine)
1350 front yoke
Custom built steel driveshaft with 1350 ujoints all around
Midwest Chassis anti roll bar
Midwest Chassis transmission crossmember mounted chromoly torque arm
BMR LCAs
Spohn adjustable Panhard bar
Comp Engineering Rear adjustable shocks
Poly motor mounts
Fuel system:
Dual in tank Walbro 255lph pumps
Nitrous system:
NX big solenoid EFI nozzle kit
Electrical:
Lingenfelter 2 step
Raptor shift light
Brakes:
LS1 front brakes
LT1 rear brakes (completely new 400 miles ago) with braided lines
Paint:
Factory paint
Black manta ray on hood
6 out of 10 with some blemishes here and there (Car is 11 years old)
Paint is peeling a bit on the front bumper and driver fender
Wheels/tires:
15x3.5 Greg Weld fronts w/ Kumho tires
15x10 4.5” bs Greg Weld rears w/ 275/60/15 MT ET Radials (only a few passes left on them)
Miscellaneous:
Rear mounted battery w/ custom kill switch
SLP linelock
Wilwood proportioning valve
RevExtreme PCV system
Quick video of it idling
Car has run 11.9 @114 on motor on the current setup. The car really needs a little bit higher stall convertor which I was going to do this winter if it doesn’t sell. I believe it is capable of 11.4 or so on motor. Should easily go 10.5 or lower on the gun but I have not made a nitrous pass with it yet.
Car cut 1.6 60’ with the wrong convertor… Dead hooks and I believe with the right convertor 1.5 60’ times should not be an issue.
Looking to get $14,500 for the car… I have a TON more in the car, and you could not build it for that. I am just looking to get more of a driver car now that I don’t have access to a garage to work on it and go racing…
Last edited by patriotformula; 11-08-2009 at 04:24 PM.
