408ci 1999 Z28 - Viper Steel Grey paint - Lexington, KY 40511 - Priced to sell
10-08-2007, 04:04 AM
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408ci 1999 Z28 - Viper Steel Grey paint - Lexington, KY 40511 - Priced to sell I am asking what I believe to be an unbelievably low price for this car, so please don't low-ball me. This is priced to sell fast. Here is your chance to get into an unbelievably fast car for a small investment. The mods costed me more than I am asking for the car.
$15,500 - DROPPED by $1,000 from my original asking price
83,000 miles on odometer
less than 6,000 miles on the 408
M6
408 stroker - 556RWHP/500RWTQ DJ #s
I've been tearing my hair out thinking about it, but a baby is on the way, and I need to kill some debt. The Interior has a few pieces that have been spraypainted years ago, so if you want it to look original, these pieces will need to be replaced.
This is all off the top of my head, so I may miss a few things:
SDPC 408ci iron shortblock
-Diamond -2cc valve relief forged pistons
-Callies forged crankshaft
-Callies Compstar connecting rods
-ARP connecting rod bolts
-ARP main studs
-ARP head studs
-Thunder Racing hardened Chromoly pushrods
-ringed for a nice shot of nitrous should you want it, I wouldn't put more than 200hp to it just to keep it safe.
*** Use of nitrous may require upgrading the fuel system with an in-line KB Boost-A-Pump
TEA stage III 6.0L heads - bad ****'s that outflow AFR heads pretty much across the board.
-Dual-springs, everything else. Visit TEA's site for all the details on the stg 3 6.0L heads
Comp Cams custom Grind cam:
248/254 615/613 113 LSA
FAST 90mm intake manifold
-hand ported and proven on the dyno
-sanded, prepped, and painted to look as "stock" as possible
Nick Williams 90mm throttle body
LS1 Motorsport air lid - has 2 holes in it from years ago when I had the bottle on the stock engine. I am now using the "tape" mod to cover them up, lol.
K&N air filter
Kooks stainless steel 1-7/8" primary longtube headers - only the best!
ORY-pipe
Magnaflow stainless steel catback exhaust
QTP stainless steel cutout
QTP electronic cutout valve - no crawling under the car to shut it up.
Spohn torque arm with front AND read driveshaft safety loops. This is the torque arm you want for the strip. It relocates the mount to the tunnel brace and takes all stress off the transmission tailshaft. - Powdercoated RED
BMR "boxed" Sub-frame connectors - Welded in place - Powdercoated RED
Miscellaneous mods
PRO 5.0 Shifter
Raptor shift light
Also, many free mods have been performed
FUEL SYSTEM UPGRADES:
Racetronix in-tank fuel pump system - with the provision to install a boost-a-pump easily accessible should you need the extra fuel demand.
Delphi/Lucas 42# High Impedence Fuel Injectors - rated to be even more than 42# on LS1 cars.
TUNING SOFTWARE:
LS1Edit
COSMETIC mods:
-new Viper Steel Grey Pearl paint - done in August of 2006
-OEM GM SS hood - not aftermarket
-aftermarket SS spoiler
-shaved front grille
-slotted rotors
-ZO6 Motorsport Wheels
-Clear corners
-stainless steel "Camaro" in rear panel
-most interior lighting done in blue LEDs that will never burn out - even the radio lights!!!
-Silver face gauges that are back lit blue - can adjust color and brightness with a **** in the console tray
Here is a list of things you may be concerned with.
1 - It has no AC components at all. I took them off, and my dad accidentally swept saw dust in them. If you want AC, you'll need to but the AC system. You can probably get a steal on a setup from LS1tech.
2 - The car has had a minor front-end collision that caused no damage other than some cosmetic stuff and it bent the passenger side tip of the frame rail just a little bit. It was all fixed properly and the car has a clean and clear title.
3 - It likes to throw the serpentine belt. I usually don't go WOT on it for this reason - A solid tensioner will remedy this problem.
4 - For some reason that I don't know, the low-coolant light likes to come on after about 10 minutes of driving it at normal operating temperate. The car always runs at normal temperature and never overheats. Whenever this light pops on, the coolant level is fine - I have checked it everytime out of concern, and the coolant level was right where it should be. The only reason I could think of this happening is a faulty coolant level sensor. once the car cools off, you can start it back up and the light will be gone. Just some kind of strange quirk that started happening about a month ago.
5 - The car has 1 broken wheel stud.
6 - The rear seats have been taken out. I still have the seats, but they are not installed.
7 - The roof has the infamous F-body roof bubbles. This just happened after the paintjob - go figure
8 - The passenger side window motor is crapping out. I have 2 new motors in my garage, but I haven't installed them. They will both go with the car. I have not found time to install them.
I have receipts for the shortblock, heads, and exhaust components. I have the cam card. I have flow sheets for the heads. I have dyno graphs as well.
OLD DYNO VIDEO - car was black, but not anymore:
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....F-757FC83AF3EC
PICS showing painted jambs and all. The only thing that is still black on the car is the engine bay:
My Fquick page with more pictures of the engine assembly and installation as well as interior lighting:
http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewvehicle.php?id=673
Please feel free to ask me questions via posting them here, PMing me, or giving me a call. My cell phone # is 859-552-3889. I can't answer calls until the afternoon after 4:00pm and later at night. I have class all morning and into the afternoon.
Thanks,
Matt Neace
$15,500 - DROPPED by $1,000 from my original asking price
83,000 miles on odometer
less than 6,000 miles on the 408
M6
408 stroker - 556RWHP/500RWTQ DJ #s
I've been tearing my hair out thinking about it, but a baby is on the way, and I need to kill some debt. The Interior has a few pieces that have been spraypainted years ago, so if you want it to look original, these pieces will need to be replaced.
This is all off the top of my head, so I may miss a few things:
SDPC 408ci iron shortblock
-Diamond -2cc valve relief forged pistons
-Callies forged crankshaft
-Callies Compstar connecting rods
-ARP connecting rod bolts
-ARP main studs
-ARP head studs
-Thunder Racing hardened Chromoly pushrods
-ringed for a nice shot of nitrous should you want it, I wouldn't put more than 200hp to it just to keep it safe.
*** Use of nitrous may require upgrading the fuel system with an in-line KB Boost-A-Pump
TEA stage III 6.0L heads - bad ****'s that outflow AFR heads pretty much across the board.
-Dual-springs, everything else. Visit TEA's site for all the details on the stg 3 6.0L heads
Comp Cams custom Grind cam:
248/254 615/613 113 LSA
FAST 90mm intake manifold
-hand ported and proven on the dyno
-sanded, prepped, and painted to look as "stock" as possible
Nick Williams 90mm throttle body
LS1 Motorsport air lid - has 2 holes in it from years ago when I had the bottle on the stock engine. I am now using the "tape" mod to cover them up, lol.
K&N air filter
Kooks stainless steel 1-7/8" primary longtube headers - only the best!
ORY-pipe
Magnaflow stainless steel catback exhaust
QTP stainless steel cutout
QTP electronic cutout valve - no crawling under the car to shut it up.
Spohn torque arm with front AND read driveshaft safety loops. This is the torque arm you want for the strip. It relocates the mount to the tunnel brace and takes all stress off the transmission tailshaft. - Powdercoated RED
BMR "boxed" Sub-frame connectors - Welded in place - Powdercoated RED
Miscellaneous mods
PRO 5.0 Shifter
Raptor shift light
Also, many free mods have been performed
FUEL SYSTEM UPGRADES:
Racetronix in-tank fuel pump system - with the provision to install a boost-a-pump easily accessible should you need the extra fuel demand.
Delphi/Lucas 42# High Impedence Fuel Injectors - rated to be even more than 42# on LS1 cars.
TUNING SOFTWARE:
LS1Edit
COSMETIC mods:
-new Viper Steel Grey Pearl paint - done in August of 2006
-OEM GM SS hood - not aftermarket
-aftermarket SS spoiler
-shaved front grille
-slotted rotors
-ZO6 Motorsport Wheels
-Clear corners
-stainless steel "Camaro" in rear panel
-most interior lighting done in blue LEDs that will never burn out - even the radio lights!!!
-Silver face gauges that are back lit blue - can adjust color and brightness with a **** in the console tray
Here is a list of things you may be concerned with.
1 - It has no AC components at all. I took them off, and my dad accidentally swept saw dust in them. If you want AC, you'll need to but the AC system. You can probably get a steal on a setup from LS1tech.
2 - The car has had a minor front-end collision that caused no damage other than some cosmetic stuff and it bent the passenger side tip of the frame rail just a little bit. It was all fixed properly and the car has a clean and clear title.
3 - It likes to throw the serpentine belt. I usually don't go WOT on it for this reason - A solid tensioner will remedy this problem.
4 - For some reason that I don't know, the low-coolant light likes to come on after about 10 minutes of driving it at normal operating temperate. The car always runs at normal temperature and never overheats. Whenever this light pops on, the coolant level is fine - I have checked it everytime out of concern, and the coolant level was right where it should be. The only reason I could think of this happening is a faulty coolant level sensor. once the car cools off, you can start it back up and the light will be gone. Just some kind of strange quirk that started happening about a month ago.
5 - The car has 1 broken wheel stud.
6 - The rear seats have been taken out. I still have the seats, but they are not installed.
7 - The roof has the infamous F-body roof bubbles. This just happened after the paintjob - go figure
8 - The passenger side window motor is crapping out. I have 2 new motors in my garage, but I haven't installed them. They will both go with the car. I have not found time to install them.
I have receipts for the shortblock, heads, and exhaust components. I have the cam card. I have flow sheets for the heads. I have dyno graphs as well.
OLD DYNO VIDEO - car was black, but not anymore:
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....F-757FC83AF3EC
PICS showing painted jambs and all. The only thing that is still black on the car is the engine bay:
My Fquick page with more pictures of the engine assembly and installation as well as interior lighting:
http://www.fquick.com/garages/viewvehicle.php?id=673
Please feel free to ask me questions via posting them here, PMing me, or giving me a call. My cell phone # is 859-552-3889. I can't answer calls until the afternoon after 4:00pm and later at night. I have class all morning and into the afternoon.
Thanks,
Matt Neace
Last edited by dragonZ28; 10-12-2007 at 07:25 AM.
