FS: 93 RX7 2JZ Tube Chassis in Houston, TX
11-05-2007, 06:05 PM
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FS: 93 RX7 2JZ Tube Chassis in Houston, TX Well, I never thought I would be doing this...but the wife has decided to go back to Medical School and I am not going to be able to afford to finish this project so my loss will be your gain. This car has been a long term dream of mine...but losing 1/2 of my family income and having to cut costs where I can, this dream will have to be put on hold for another 4-5 years now.
About the car:
1993 RX7 R1
Silver ext.
Black int.
106k miles
Clean Title
This car is a back-halved, fully tubbed, solid rear, 4-link, NHRA legal chassis certified to 8.50 with a full cage and the rear tin work is all done for the tubs.
It has a Ford 9" solid rear
4 link suspension w/ pan hard bar
Koni 8212 double adjustable coilover shocks
Strange 35 spline axles
Strange differential case
Strange spool and bearings
Aerospace rear brakes
NHRA legal 4130 chromoly roll cage w/ parachute mount
Chromoly subframe connectors
CCW Classic race wheels 17x12 5x4.75 w/ 315/35/17 BFG Drag Radials
No front wheels for the car yet (misc. roller wheels currently)
This car was also set up for a 2JZ drivetrain
It has a 11k mile 2JZ long block from Jarco
Fully built TH400 transmission w/ 2JZ bellhousing
Tranny cooler
3600rpm stall and torque converter
TH400 driveshaft for a Supra diff (will need to be shortened and mated with the 9")
2JZ custom 4130 chromoly subframe engineered to allow the 2JZ to fit under the stock hood w/ the stock steering rack
T88 single turbo kit w/ tubular manifold, Greddy Wastegate, and a brand new Greddy T88H 34D turbo (Will need custom downpipe made)
Haltech E6K EMS w/ 2JZ wiring harness and connectors
The interior of the car is still bare. The dash and all interior plastics have been removed during the chassis build and were left out to complete the wiring for the car. The originaly chassis and engine harnesses have been removed but will come with the car. I was planning to run a Painless wiring harness and use the stock harnesses for the connectors to utilize the stock instruments and switches. You can choose to do as I was going to for a more street car look, but can also just wire up independant switches for a smipler more race car inspired function.
This car was originally concepted as a purpose built street car...so everything was done to allow the continued use of A/C, heating, power steering, power windows, locks, mirrors, etc... But this is now entirely up to the new owner and there desire for this car to remain a purpose built street car for racing, or a drag car.
The body is all stock w/ the exception of the front bumper. The car had an aftermarket front bumper on it when I bought it, which I got rid of. I have a stock front bumper and R1 lip for the car, but the bumper is white, not silver. The car does have a dent on the passenger rear quarter panel near the antenna. The car will need a paint job to be complete, it was painted about 4-5 years ago by the previous owner but for this scope of a car, a new paintjob is in order. The cage will also need to be painted (best to do while the interior is out). You could also seam seal the rear tin to keep the smoke out of the cabin during the burnout. The car is all glass...no lexan. I still have all the stock interior parts for the front of the car, dash, door panels, center console, rear quarter plastics, and I also purchased all 94-95 interior plastics for the gauge cluster/hood, ac panel, center console, so it has the durable better interior.
This car still needs the wiring completed, fuel system, exhaust system, interior put back together, paint, and any engine work that you would want to do. Personally I was planning to simply do head work, and leave the stock bottom end in the car since it has such low miles, and personally no one builds these engine better than Toyota. They can take 1000 at the wheels on the stock block....My goal was around 750-800rwhp w/ a chassis hopefully weighing under 2450lbs completed. This setup should be capable for mid 8 sec. passe which was my goal. With decent slicks and the chassis under this car, 1.2 - 1.3 60' should be doable. The fabricator thinks 1.1 60's would be doable...but he is used to building pro-mod cars with pro drivers....and I don't think I am capable of that..but maybe you are, who knows.
Anyways. Alot of money has been spent on this car and I won't lie, alot is probably left to be spent on it. My situation is just not going to allow me to complete it any time soon, so I feel it is best for me and my family to cut my losses now and hopefully someone else can finish it up and have some fun.
Here are a few pics. It is dark here right now, I will get some new pics of the car tomorrow, but here are the pics I have right now for you.
Thanks for your interest...it will be one hell of a car, but I also know that this car was built for me and my specs and finding the right buyer could take some time which I am prepared to wait for..so please no low ball offers or dreamers.
$22k OBO.
About the car:
1993 RX7 R1
Silver ext.
Black int.
106k miles
Clean Title
This car is a back-halved, fully tubbed, solid rear, 4-link, NHRA legal chassis certified to 8.50 with a full cage and the rear tin work is all done for the tubs.
It has a Ford 9" solid rear
4 link suspension w/ pan hard bar
Koni 8212 double adjustable coilover shocks
Strange 35 spline axles
Strange differential case
Strange spool and bearings
Aerospace rear brakes
NHRA legal 4130 chromoly roll cage w/ parachute mount
Chromoly subframe connectors
CCW Classic race wheels 17x12 5x4.75 w/ 315/35/17 BFG Drag Radials
No front wheels for the car yet (misc. roller wheels currently)
This car was also set up for a 2JZ drivetrain
It has a 11k mile 2JZ long block from Jarco
Fully built TH400 transmission w/ 2JZ bellhousing
Tranny cooler
3600rpm stall and torque converter
TH400 driveshaft for a Supra diff (will need to be shortened and mated with the 9")
2JZ custom 4130 chromoly subframe engineered to allow the 2JZ to fit under the stock hood w/ the stock steering rack
T88 single turbo kit w/ tubular manifold, Greddy Wastegate, and a brand new Greddy T88H 34D turbo (Will need custom downpipe made)
Haltech E6K EMS w/ 2JZ wiring harness and connectors
The interior of the car is still bare. The dash and all interior plastics have been removed during the chassis build and were left out to complete the wiring for the car. The originaly chassis and engine harnesses have been removed but will come with the car. I was planning to run a Painless wiring harness and use the stock harnesses for the connectors to utilize the stock instruments and switches. You can choose to do as I was going to for a more street car look, but can also just wire up independant switches for a smipler more race car inspired function.
This car was originally concepted as a purpose built street car...so everything was done to allow the continued use of A/C, heating, power steering, power windows, locks, mirrors, etc... But this is now entirely up to the new owner and there desire for this car to remain a purpose built street car for racing, or a drag car.
The body is all stock w/ the exception of the front bumper. The car had an aftermarket front bumper on it when I bought it, which I got rid of. I have a stock front bumper and R1 lip for the car, but the bumper is white, not silver. The car does have a dent on the passenger rear quarter panel near the antenna. The car will need a paint job to be complete, it was painted about 4-5 years ago by the previous owner but for this scope of a car, a new paintjob is in order. The cage will also need to be painted (best to do while the interior is out). You could also seam seal the rear tin to keep the smoke out of the cabin during the burnout. The car is all glass...no lexan. I still have all the stock interior parts for the front of the car, dash, door panels, center console, rear quarter plastics, and I also purchased all 94-95 interior plastics for the gauge cluster/hood, ac panel, center console, so it has the durable better interior.
This car still needs the wiring completed, fuel system, exhaust system, interior put back together, paint, and any engine work that you would want to do. Personally I was planning to simply do head work, and leave the stock bottom end in the car since it has such low miles, and personally no one builds these engine better than Toyota. They can take 1000 at the wheels on the stock block....My goal was around 750-800rwhp w/ a chassis hopefully weighing under 2450lbs completed. This setup should be capable for mid 8 sec. passe which was my goal. With decent slicks and the chassis under this car, 1.2 - 1.3 60' should be doable. The fabricator thinks 1.1 60's would be doable...but he is used to building pro-mod cars with pro drivers....and I don't think I am capable of that..but maybe you are, who knows.
Anyways. Alot of money has been spent on this car and I won't lie, alot is probably left to be spent on it. My situation is just not going to allow me to complete it any time soon, so I feel it is best for me and my family to cut my losses now and hopefully someone else can finish it up and have some fun.
Here are a few pics. It is dark here right now, I will get some new pics of the car tomorrow, but here are the pics I have right now for you.
Thanks for your interest...it will be one hell of a car, but I also know that this car was built for me and my specs and finding the right buyer could take some time which I am prepared to wait for..so please no low ball offers or dreamers.
$22k OBO.
11-11-2007, 05:48 PM
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Sorry for the delay in pics...I was out of town this past week.
Here are some more pics of the car, parts, and engine bay.
The car has not been washed in a while so please don't mind the dust on the car. The front fenders, headlight covers, and front bumper are not bolted to the car right now, I simply put them on the car loosely so that you could see the car with them on it. The bumper would not float by itself, so it is just sitting on the floor.
Also, the rear brakes are not on the car, so the rear wheels appear to be a bit more tucked then necessary, with the brake rotors and hats installed, the wheel offset should come out another 3/4" or so. The car already has the exteneded wheels studs for NHRA legality.
The parts are just some of the pics of the parts that come with the car. Not pictured are most of the interior parts, ie: carpet, rear quarter plastics, center console/armrest, door panels, etc...I did include a picture of the dash out of the car, and I do have the glovebox, heater core, blower, etc..for behind the dash as well. The dash plastics are the 94-95 model with the better more durable material.
Thanks again.
-Scott
Here are some more pics of the car, parts, and engine bay.
The car has not been washed in a while so please don't mind the dust on the car. The front fenders, headlight covers, and front bumper are not bolted to the car right now, I simply put them on the car loosely so that you could see the car with them on it. The bumper would not float by itself, so it is just sitting on the floor.
Also, the rear brakes are not on the car, so the rear wheels appear to be a bit more tucked then necessary, with the brake rotors and hats installed, the wheel offset should come out another 3/4" or so. The car already has the exteneded wheels studs for NHRA legality.
The parts are just some of the pics of the parts that come with the car. Not pictured are most of the interior parts, ie: carpet, rear quarter plastics, center console/armrest, door panels, etc...I did include a picture of the dash out of the car, and I do have the glovebox, heater core, blower, etc..for behind the dash as well. The dash plastics are the 94-95 model with the better more durable material.
Thanks again.
-Scott
11-17-2007, 04:38 PM
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New Price - $21k
Pretty solid setup 8 second car with 800whp...which isn't pushing a 2JZ too hard...but it is ready for a parachute, 1.1 60' ft's, and if you want to go big with a stroker setup and a huge turbo...then the sky is the limit. The chassis will hold 2500hp. But the cage is only legal down to 8.50's...you would need the driver seat halo and the front fender connections through the firewall. The dash is still out as of now, so it would not take much to add those bars in an empty car.
Pretty solid setup 8 second car with 800whp...which isn't pushing a 2JZ too hard...but it is ready for a parachute, 1.1 60' ft's, and if you want to go big with a stroker setup and a huge turbo...then the sky is the limit. The chassis will hold 2500hp. But the cage is only legal down to 8.50's...you would need the driver seat halo and the front fender connections through the firewall. The dash is still out as of now, so it would not take much to add those bars in an empty car.
