Modded Sbc Problem can anyone help
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Modded Sbc Problem can anyone help
Well recently just finished a new motor, including stock vortec heads but i had screw in studs and guide plates put on, a typhoon intake and some procomp roller rockers
anyhow i noticed a light tapping noise upon initial timing, so i pull the valve cover and sure enough a loose rocker oh btw this is a solid cam, so i pull the rocker off to see if it caused any damage and i see some grooves cut into it cause by the head of the stud
all the rockers have a little wear but this is by far the worst, does anyone have a suggestion that will help me out.
thanks luke
anyhow i noticed a light tapping noise upon initial timing, so i pull the valve cover and sure enough a loose rocker oh btw this is a solid cam, so i pull the rocker off to see if it caused any damage and i see some grooves cut into it cause by the head of the stud
all the rockers have a little wear but this is by far the worst, does anyone have a suggestion that will help me out.
thanks luke
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Hey Luke, out of curiosity, were the heads machined for larger springs? They dont accommodate very large springs stock, and you have to machine the spring seats to run bigger ones. And obviously im sure you know that you need to run big springs with large lifts, which it sounds like you have there. Could be something like that I suppose
I remember I ran a set of those vortec heads on my old 68 Camaro and they did well, but I had to choose a cam under the max lift of the springs on there. And if I remember right, it wasnt much
I remember I ran a set of those vortec heads on my old 68 Camaro and they did well, but I had to choose a cam under the max lift of the springs on there. And if I remember right, it wasnt much
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yeah the spring seats are still the same size, thou i called comp and they offered a double spring that kept stock spring seat dia, and also was enough for the solid cam that i chose, i spoke to shay and we talked about some issues that i may have, valve seat reatainers may be bottoming out on the valve seat retainers, and also mentioned that vortec heads may require a longer pushrod, so i have a list of things to do, which sucks i really thought this was going to be a straight forward thing, guess not, and thanks for the help guys i really appreciate it
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well they were a great deal, i got them brand new in the box from a guy on craigs list for a 150 bucks, he had already had the guide plates and screw in studs put on at the machine shop, but after realizing he would need a different intake mani and headers he decided to get some world product heads and stuffed these in the garage for a few years, they were even the 062 castings. so i got a hell of a deal, and no these are the same rockers i used on my old camel humps, and yes its n/a well until i arm the system of course
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from what i see, the rocker is bottoming out on the base of the stud...
its a solid lifter deal right? u can only run so much preload before you hang a valve open... so if it is an issue of the engine running normally, and only rockers making contact with the stud base, id say too short of a pushrod is your issue...
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sharpie method?
from what i see, the rocker is bottoming out on the base of the stud...
its a solid lifter deal right? u can only run so much preload before you hang a valve open... so if it is an issue of the engine running normally, and only rockers making contact with the stud base, id say too short of a pushrod is your issue...
from what i see, the rocker is bottoming out on the base of the stud...
its a solid lifter deal right? u can only run so much preload before you hang a valve open... so if it is an issue of the engine running normally, and only rockers making contact with the stud base, id say too short of a pushrod is your issue...
but i do agree that it looks like the rockers is bottoming out on the rocker stud base, i think it needs a longer pushrod
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sharpie method?
from what i see, the rocker is bottoming out on the base of the stud...
its a solid lifter deal right? u can only run so much preload before you hang a valve open... so if it is an issue of the engine running normally, and only rockers making contact with the stud base, id say too short of a pushrod is your issue...
from what i see, the rocker is bottoming out on the base of the stud...
its a solid lifter deal right? u can only run so much preload before you hang a valve open... so if it is an issue of the engine running normally, and only rockers making contact with the stud base, id say too short of a pushrod is your issue...
also, some insight, when i was running intial timing one of the studs worked itself loose, maybe it was never tightened by the machine shop cause i neve tightened them, anyhow, 1 stud came loose, causing my tapping noise, this rocker got the rubbing the worse, which leads me to belive the looser the rocker the more it rubs, which would also explain my lash set almost 4 thousands looser than the cam card calls for, so its not an issue of pushrod lenght but rather an issue of misleading adivce and improperly adjusted valves. i am going to move my lash from 22 to 24 to 16 to 18, and keep an eye on the wear, im sure the problem will go away completely with proper lash set. plus who doesnt like a little extra top end power?
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preload on a soild lifter motor? hmmm....... last time i checked a solid lifter didnt have a plunger to preload...... that is why there is a thing called "lash" that you adjust...
but i do agree that it looks like the rockers is bottoming out on the rocker stud base, i think it needs a longer pushrod
but i do agree that it looks like the rockers is bottoming out on the rocker stud base, i think it needs a longer pushrod
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http://www.circletrack.com/techartic...gth/index.html
also, some insight, when i was running intial timing one of the studs worked itself loose, maybe it was never tightened by the machine shop cause i neve tightened them, anyhow, 1 stud came loose, causing my tapping noise, this rocker got the rubbing the worse, which leads me to belive the looser the rocker the more it rubs, which would also explain my lash set almost 4 thousands looser than the cam card calls for, so its not an issue of pushrod lenght but rather an issue of misleading adivce and improperly adjusted valves. i am going to move my lash from 22 to 24 to 16 to 18, and keep an eye on the wear, im sure the problem will go away completely with proper lash set. plus who doesnt like a little extra top end power?
also, some insight, when i was running intial timing one of the studs worked itself loose, maybe it was never tightened by the machine shop cause i neve tightened them, anyhow, 1 stud came loose, causing my tapping noise, this rocker got the rubbing the worse, which leads me to belive the looser the rocker the more it rubs, which would also explain my lash set almost 4 thousands looser than the cam card calls for, so its not an issue of pushrod lenght but rather an issue of misleading adivce and improperly adjusted valves. i am going to move my lash from 22 to 24 to 16 to 18, and keep an eye on the wear, im sure the problem will go away completely with proper lash set. plus who doesnt like a little extra top end power?
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preload on a soild lifter motor? hmmm....... last time i checked a solid lifter didnt have a plunger to preload...... that is why there is a thing called "lash" that you adjust...
but i do agree that it looks like the rockers is bottoming out on the rocker stud base, i think it needs a longer pushrod
but i do agree that it looks like the rockers is bottoming out on the rocker stud base, i think it needs a longer pushrod