LS1Adam84

iTrader: (21)

Well yeah I kinda been thinkin that too cause it feels like its grabbing then letting go like maybe a tooth on the gear is gone or several I dunno maybe I will take the diff cover off this weekend and see.

98BlackT/A

I hate to tell you this but it sounds like your rear end is ready to let go. If everything in the suspension is tight, you have slop in the rear end. My Vette did the same thing before the wheel bearing let go and again before the spider gear exploded. My T/A made a whirring noise when the wheel bearing went bad. The good news is if you take it out yourself and take it to a good machine shop, it will be only about a grand, and that is with 2 new axels. That is what I did 2 years ago.

jattgunman

iTrader: (1)

**** trying to diagnose where a sound is coming from...you wont find it that way, instead get down there and start shaking the **** out of suspect parts...

To check the panhard bar you simply move your car side to side and listen for pops(open your trunk and push side to side from in there)

To check the lca hit them with a mallet and check for movement,yes you could probally move them by hand but i must of been under my car twenty times before I could just move them..

And make sure everything is tight

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

get a used rear from a part out car on here. check the western classifieds im sure someone has one

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

do u know if your car has a zexal or auborn diff?? the zexal will not make a bucking or banging sound, those are locked or unlocked

LS1Adam84

iTrader: (21)

Yeah everything was tight when I checked christmas day last night i was driving home and I now think my rear has just taken a **** on me. It bucked and was grinding on every turn really bad and when going straight sounded like there was no whine from the rear but more like putting a fork in a blender on a low setting and it was loud and the more speed i got the less it could be heard but I could hear it. well time to take her apart I hope it doesn't cost me a grand that would suck.

Sooo buying new gears simply won't do it? I would have to get my axles done too?

98BlackT/A

I replaced the axels cause they were showing wear marks where the bearing sat. You do not have to replace if yours are good, but while you have it out I would def. replace the bearings and seals cause the bearins on these cars tend to go out around 80k miles. Bearings and seals shouldn't cost much more than $100.

LS1Adam84

iTrader: (21)

Ahh gotcha yeah this car has 50xxx miles on it. this is a bummer. So would you say open the diff and see what damage was done before getting a new rear? or safe to just buy a used one for a little bit and maybe build this one up?

98BlackT/A

I would open her up and see what is wrong, and go from there. Even buying a used one you do not know what you are getting. I would call a machine shop in your area to find out what it would cost to rebuild yours. I would do your wheel bearings now and that way your axels will still be good later, if you wait to hear the wirring noise that is too late and the axels will have marks like mine did. My rebuild was 500 axels were 125 each, I took it in and out and saved a ton so figure just on my rear end not counting the other things I did it cost me 750