Tuner can't tune my car
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I install new chromemoly pushrods dual patriot valve springs and seals and ti retainers on stock size head gaskets.I did consider the idea about maybe the valves not seating right or floating but I don't have any unusual noise that I can detect of.I also noticed that I'll get a pop in the exhaust every once in a while.I got an old auto tap that I'm gonna use to see what is happening.hopefully I can remember how to use the damn thing.It feels like the timing could be off but I lack the necessary experiance.I do know that some blower cams have timing ground into them (+2 or +4 etc.) but I am by no means knowledgable.Worse case scenario is that I end up getting a new cam for it. Could it be that whatever sensor is used for the timing is bad ( I think its the cam or crank sensor).I appreciate any insight good or bad
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also it has a hard time idleing before it fully warms up.I'm gonna turn the idle screw a little to see if I can give it a little more idle speed. It drops to about 550 rpm then it goes back up to about 850 rpm and back and forth untio it dies or I give it gas.If I put it in gear it'll turn off if i don't give it gas
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First your tune is way off, if he can't tune idle, he probably cant tune at all. Second, did you happen to measure spring height???? Spring height is very important, and even the best springs will float if they do not have the right seat height. The smell of gas in the exhaust can be rich or lean. Rich will smell of gas, because well it has alot more fuel in the mix. if you are extremely lean, your car can lean misfire, and you will smell fuel because its not burning in the cylinder due to a misfire. Also if you don't have cats you will smell fuel.
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First your tune is way off, if he can't tune idle, he probably cant tune at all. Second, did you happen to measure spring height???? Spring height is very important, and even the best springs will float if they do not have the right seat height. The smell of gas in the exhaust can be rich or lean. Rich will smell of gas, because well it has alot more fuel in the mix. if you are extremely lean, your car can lean misfire, and you will smell fuel because its not burning in the cylinder due to a misfire. Also if you don't have cats you will smell fuel.
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Pull the cam and send it in to get doctored so you can find out what you are working with for starters. That will only cost your time to remove and shipping plus 25$~ fee of cam doc'ing. Thunder Racing can do this. Find out what software he is using. LS1 Edit, HP Tuners, or EFI Live. Tell us he isnt using a predator or something like that (All though that will cause the epic meter to rise again). ![Devil](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_devil.gif)
On a really really sad sidenote, it sucks that the epicness is starting to wear off on this thread.
Internal section needs more failthreads.
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On a really really sad sidenote, it sucks that the epicness is starting to wear off on this thread.
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#32
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Because he is an idiot. Idle is the hardest part of tuning. Not saying that the tuner who tuned the OPs car knows what he's doing but WOT is the easiest part of tuning. If he knows anything (which he may not) then I'm sure the WOT is close.
And spring height is somewhat important, but not checking it (which 90% of the people on this board with aftermarket springs probably didn't do) will not cause enough valve float to kill 40hp, if you have the correct springs for the cam.
And spring height is somewhat important, but not checking it (which 90% of the people on this board with aftermarket springs probably didn't do) will not cause enough valve float to kill 40hp, if you have the correct springs for the cam.
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I saw him talk about his eyes burning and him thinking it's not running rich. This can actually be caused by an extremely lean mixture. I can't remember what chemical makes your eyes burn when it's lean, but it happened on my car. I thought since my exhaust was burning my eyes that it was rich but my tuner told me it was actually lean and told me what chemical makes it do it but I can't remember....
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I adjusted the idle screw and it helped some but it still burns the eyes.I ran the auto tap and my stock o2 sensors were detecting a 14.5 mixture.My timing was at about 22* advance bu when I reved to about 4500rpm it jumped to about 38* or so.Is this normal.It didn't seem normal to me
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I adjusted the idle screw and it helped some but it still burns the eyes.I ran the auto tap and my stock o2 sensors were detecting a 14.5 mixture.My timing was at about 22* advance bu when I reved to about 4500rpm it jumped to about 38* or so.Is this normal.It didn't seem normal to me
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I adjusted the idle screw and it helped some but it still burns the eyes.I ran the auto tap and my stock o2 sensors were detecting a 14.5 mixture.My timing was at about 22* advance bu when I reved to about 4500rpm it jumped to about 38* or so.Is this normal.It didn't seem normal to me
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Dude, put the wrenches DOWN, and BACK AWAY slowly.
-You cannot stop this eye burning phenomenon by adjusting the idle screw. Not only are you throwing off anything that was actually done right in the tune (if anything at all), the PCM will eventually learn how far you turned the screw and adjust for it. Not too mention, you probably didn't reset your TPS sensor so now you're PCM thinks you're sitting at 10-15% TPS while you're sitting still. No bueno.
-Narrow band 02's cannot tell you A/F readings accurately. Only a wideband 02 sensor can do that.
Stop messing with your car, and find a competent shop in your area to solve your issues.
#38
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With Auto Tap, what do the long and short trims say...?
As was mentioned, too much timing and too lean... with load, just one of those conditions will allow/cause knock which will damage your motor (which would definitely increase epic-ness).
As was mentioned, too much timing and too lean... with load, just one of those conditions will allow/cause knock which will damage your motor (which would definitely increase epic-ness).
Last edited by joecar; 05-25-2010 at 10:26 AM.
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lol on that.The a/f is at that on idle and stays steady all the way up.This is suppose to be a reputable shop.But I'm just gonna take it in to the other tuner in the area.I also didn't notice any knock at all but I was thinking that he could just have turned the sensitivity down on the sensors.No audible knock either
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Dude, put the wrenches DOWN, and BACK AWAY slowly.
-You cannot stop this eye burning phenomenon by adjusting the idle screw. Not only are you throwing off anything that was actually done right in the tune (if anything at all), the PCM will eventually learn how far you turned the screw and adjust for it. Not too mention, you probably didn't reset your TPS sensor so now you're PCM thinks you're sitting at 10-15% TPS while you're sitting still. No bueno.
-Narrow band 02's cannot tell you A/F readings accurately. Only a wideband 02 sensor can do that.
Stop messing with your car, and find a competent shop in your area to solve your issues.